75LB620PU

Haha spoon. I'm getting blown up all over about the truck and the progress. Congrats on how far you've taken her!

I took the adaptor off and redid the gasket and used a gasket sealer I jb welded the studs in place because they were loose. I think the carb I have on is jetted poorly.

I'm also Thinking of swapping the carb as well. My buddy bought a 620 and he has a spare 32/36 weber. Just have to rebuild it and hope it does better

Okay. New distributor electronic ignition conversion kit. Reset the timing to 14°. Readjusted the carburetor. I still can't drive without the choke on. When I try and accelerate it cuts out as if it doesn't have enough fuel. I put the mixture screw at 6 turns out and it will somewhat run and drive with out the choke. But that is really too far out. Any suggestions?

Readjusted the idle and mixture today. Without the choke on I put it in gear and dies as soon as I try to accelerate. My buddy has a weber 32/36 with electric choke. He might not be using it so I'm gonna try and out that on and see if it does any better

They've always done this even when it ran good. But I'm gonna try and shim them until I can afford new ones

Im very skeptical of the jetting if the carb. Everywhere I've looked the combo doesn't seem right. And the aux venturies loose and rattle in the body of the carb. Jetting is Primary secondary Main. 137 135 Air correct 165 160 Venturies 27 26 Aux. Vents 3.5 3.5 Idle jets ? ? (Could not find ant marking on the idle jets. Acc. Pump 50 As far as the accel pump. It is pumping a good supply of fuel into the butterfly. Dizzy is in the middle of the adjustment plate. I adjust points every other week to stay on top of them. I have tuned the carb both ways for a stick and an auto. No change. As far as vacuum leeks. The person I bought the truck from. Had started an emissions delete. But didn't finish. I am in the process of fabbing a plate to bolt on the end of the intake where the egr is currently bolted up still. I've plugged all open vacuum lines with tubing, bolts and hose clamps. It does have the 2 piece weber adaptor. And it's a hunk of junk. It's rtved together on the bottom one. So as soon as I can afford/find another. I'll be replacing it.

I'm gonna try and set it again in the morning. Without choke after completely warmed up and in gear. Hope it helps. If not. I'll just start shutting betty down in gear haha. Btw my trucks name is betty white. Old bitch with a temper and an attitude lol. Thanks for the help guys. Will update if anything changes or figure something out

Timing is set to 12°. The carb is a weber dgv5a, no cut off solenoid :/ When in park and no choke idle is reasonable. If I put it in gear and try and accelerate without the choke on. It instantly putters out and dies. If I pull the choke 1/4 closed. It runs really well in gear but idles at almost 3k in park. I've reset the idle a couple times. As directed by redline/weber. I try openeing the choke all the way before I shut it off. But it still idles a lot higher than before I closed the choke. Maybe a linkage is getting stuck somewhere?

It didn't necessarily work. I've always had to pump the brakes 3 or 4 times. When I removed the drums to do the work. All 4 wheels were completely rusted and torn apart. Wheel cylinders were blown out all the springs were chopped up. The drums looked like the surface of the moon lol. So they've never really worked properly

How do I figure out pushrod length and adjustment. I didn't do any of that when I installed the new MC? thanks for the help and replys

i stay at the farthest until solid good pressure and clean brake fluid are coming out. my fellow ratsuner pumps and holds the pedal whilst i release the bleeder valve. i use a piece of 3/16" clear rubber hose to attatch to the bleeder valve and submerge the other end into a clean bottle of brake fluid. so there is no chance of air getting back into the system

Hi there. Been having some issues of when i shut the truck down. It sputters and backfires and spins backwards sometimes. its completely stumping me as to how that happens. Any info or advice to negate this affect would be much appreciated. my rig is a 75 long bed 620. l20b with w53 head. Weber dgv5a carb 3 speed auto transmission Thanks Guys

i searched along the whole brake line to make sure no NLSV. and i will try that and see if results differ from the first time. after i adjust them out to where they drag. do i press the brake pedal to center the brake shoes and check for drag again? thanks for the input guuys :thumbup:

my next thought is to maybe rebuild the MC?