lowrider

Thank you sir! It wasn't a very good start to the morning. lol I am just about finished collecting parts to drop it off at the paint shop to get it fixed back up. All in all it could have been a lot worse. Hopefully the family and I will be ready to cruse around in it come summer.

Oh, they are definitely really cool cars! I had the same internal debate about either lowering it or raising and doing a safari type build. I went the lowered route. lol The stock bumpers aren't too bad when the shocks are retracted. Picture below for an example: Unfortunately a few weeks back, mine took a trip into the ditch to avoid hitting a deer. It made me realize that I don't have near the spare parts I need for it like I do my Z cars.

I would be keen on picking up a few parts if you're parting it out.

This may end up being a huge picture dump. The car has changed a lot over the past 3 years. Lets start from the top: In June 2018 I started collecting the parts to install bike carbs on the new to me L20B. I got a U-bend and 3d-printed some angle jigs to exactly match the CAD model of the intake I had already designed. Welded everything up and test fit on the broken motor: I painted the manifold originally, but went back and powder coated it OD green to match the intake manifold on the Z. Fast forward to September 2018, I picked up some E30 convertible seats for up front. I love the adjust ability and bolsters on these! Also, the previous owner met up with me and gave me a box full of spares he had on the shelf for the car. My kiddos love cruising around in this thing so since I live super close to the smokey mountains, we decided to take a trip to Cades Cove in November 2018. I got a few good pictures of the car by the tunnel in/out of the place. Next in the timeline was a rad photo shoot with a good friend of mine that shoots analog photography. I have dabbled in film a little but I have no idea what I'm doing so we got together to collaborate on a photoshoot. The car hibernated during the winter and come March 2019 I had a guy I work with do the body work and paint the car. After getting the car back from paint in May 2019. The guy who painted it was gracious enough to "wet sand and buff" the car before delivery. However his buffing job just wasn't up to my standards, so I spent the better part of 2 months polishing the turd. I should have pulled the bumpers because he didn't get good paint coverage behind them, so those areas got blacked out. I made a set of "bluebird-u" emblems to replace my roached 610 ones. I installed the rest of the trim and drove the car for a while trying to decide what I was going to do with the bumpers. I finally settled on straightening and tucking the stock park benches for the time being. I had a hard time deciding on what finish I wanted the bumpers. I painted them semi-gloss black but decided that wasn't going to cut it. After a ton of research on chrome imitation coatings I finally decided to chrome vinyl wrap them. That brings us up to October 2019. I more or less just drove the car up until spring of 2020 when I picked up a set of S13 coilovers to toss on the 280ZX struts I had traded into. That more or less has the car up to date. Recently I picked up a set of seat covers for the E30 Seats and I'm in the middle of recovering them. Hopefully it won't take me 3 years to post pictures of them completed.

I have always heard them referred to as wide ratio; the more you know! The trans in my wagon is definitely from a '77-'78 I pulled the engine and trans from a friends car some years ago before he V8 swapped it. I wish I hadn't grenaded the close ratio late 280ZX trans in my 260Z and installed it in the wagon instead. The large gap/RPM drop between 1st - 2nd on the 280Z trans is somewhat of an annoyance. Water under the bridge! The only reason I would be pulling the trans now is if something catastrophic happens to the drive-line.

I can also confirm that the 610 has the longer trans. I swapped the 4 speed in my wagon with a wide ratio 5 speed from a 280Z I had laying around. It also means that you can run the late zx close ratio trans which has a better gear spread and higher OD in 5th.

Had a photo shoot the other day with a good friend of mine. He and I had a ball shooting both the Z and my Wagon. I especially love how much character shooting with film brings to the character of the cars.

G-Duax, to be honest I'm not sure. The filters are a tight squeeze to get in there. I had to collapse the rear portion of the rear filter to get it between the booster and the throat of the carb when installing. At the closest point I have 3/8" clearance between the filters and the booster so if it does contact it isn't very frequently nor very hard. I plan on ditching the filters in the long run for a plenum so I can force feed these bad-boys. Mike, I'm currently running without the vacuum advance. I have the initial timing set at 15 degrees BTDC for right now. I plan on picking up a CB Performance black box and integrating it with the stock points dizzy to provide timing control in the near future. However, I probably wont pull the trigger for that purchase until just before I'm ready to mount the turbo. The PCV valve/system is currently TBD. I have both the crank and valve cover vented to atmosphere with filters. I thought about using an exhaust venturi setup, but I'm not sure how it would react being placed before the rear mounted turbo. The PCV system is something I really need to hash out but I haven't. I'm pretty sure it's a 79' engine. It has the round exhaust ports. I replaced the motor about a year ago due to loosing compression on #3. It had a dropped a valve seat on that cylinder when I bought the car that nicked the piston. I put a new head on the car but I think the Hitachi had it running so lean it may have caused a hot spot where the nick was. I haven't torn the motor down to check. I bought the motor off a guy that said it came out of a "truck", all I know is that it runs like a top. I'm not terribly familiar with the 4 cylinder L-series so is the later motor of any significance?

I wanted to update my install after I've more or less gotten the bugs worked out. As stated a couple of posts above, I went with the FZ1 side draft carbies and made a manifold to suit for my 610 Wagon. I am currently running the following for jetting on a stock L20B: Main Jet: drilled to 1.6mm Pilot Jet: Stock Pilot Adjustment Screw: 1/6 turn out Needles: Stock Needle Position: Moved down 0.68mm from stock. (I did this by removing a washer and filing the phenolic spacer on the stock nonadjustable needles.) Air Bleeds: Stock I tuned it using a Wideband, and at a 75 degree ambient and at 890' above sea level I get the following AFR readings. Idle: 12.5-13 Cruise: 14.5-14.7 WOT: 11.4-12.6 I've left the tuning as is for now. I will likely have to re-address when I add the rear mounted turbo.

I believe I am going to go the same route. I did some digging and the pump that you linked to is used on an assortment of late model Volvos. I plan on taking a trip to the local Pull-a-part this weekend to grab one. Do you use a reservoir with the pump or is it plumbed straight to the booster?

I finished welding up a manifold not for the 40mm R1 carbs, but for the 37mm FZ1 Mikuni carbies. The FZ1 carbs have a shallower mounting angle and are technically classified as side drafts versus the down drafts of the R1 carbs. This allowed me to build a more classic horizontal manifold. Don't mind the welds, I'm a bit rusty welding aluminum. I have to make a vacuum manifold for the brake booster and then I'll be installing these on my 610 wagon.

Thank you! I've been trying to absorb as much knowledge from here as possible. This is my first rodeo with any other Datsun beside Z cars. Future plans include: 1) Finishing the upholstery on the front seats 2) Bike carbs to replace the Crap-tachi 3) ???? 4) Profit It's likely to take a bit to get there since the toy money will have to be shared between the Goon and the Z.

The reaction disk is a rubber puck looking thing that is between the booster diaphragm and the master cylinder.I had it happen with the booster in my 260Z, I was able to shake the booster around enough to get it out. Check out Hybridz, there was a big thread about it several years back.

So, this is kind of my introduction to Ratsun. I initially set up this username some 4 years ago and never posted. I may be new here, but I'm not new to Datsuns. I have owned my current 260Z for the better part of 10 years now, and for some reason or another I had gotten the itch to get a station wagon. I had looked at a few maxima wagons with the LD28 and the L24 due to my familiarity with the L6 engine but really didn't find anything that was in good enough shape to be my daily driver. I was browsing craigslist one night looking for my wife a wagon wheel to put in our front flower bed, and happened across an ad for a Datsun 610 station wagon with no picture and a very vague description for $1500. I had no clue what a 610 was let alone a 610 Goon so after a quick google image search, I was hooked. I called the guy and turns out he was the original owner of the car, said his wife was forcing him to downsize the amount of things he has because of his "ever increasing age". I talked with him a bit more and found out that the motor had a miss that had started the last time that he had driven it. I went to check it out a few weeks later, the car was really well maintained he had kept a note book log of EVERYTHING he had ever done to the car including all of the receipts for parts. The car was incredibly solid for having spent most of it's life in and around New Orleans. We chatted for a bit and I asked if he could start it so I could listen to hear if anything was the obvious cause of the miss. The top end sounded really noisy so we removed the valve cover and found it had thrown a rocker. Re-installed the rocker and it threw it again, compression test confirmed that it had no compression on number 3. He was really impressed with my intention to daily drive the goon seeing as how it "was his baby". I finally talked him down a considerable amount, gave him the money, and had him tow it (had a tow bar setup) to my Pop's garage. I dove into the motor immediately, pulled the head and found that it had dropped a valve seat. the loose valve seat beat the piss out of the head, but fortunately the piston had only been slightly touched. I could not for the life of me find an L20 head local to replace the ruined one. However I did have a friend that had an L16 laying around that was willing to donate the head to a good cause. I gasket matched the L16 head to the L20 intake and bolted everything back together, ran great but used/burnt oil like it was going out of style. I drove the crap out of it, I eventually swapped my riken meshies on it, swapped the 4 speed for a 280Z 5-speed, added a sunpro tach, swapped the steering wheel for a series 1 240Z wheel, and lowered it with 2.5" blocks in the rear/ cut 2.5 coils on the front. I lived with putting a quart of oil in it every time I filled the tank until the motor lost compression on number 3 again. I was lucky enough to have found an L20 on Craigslist in Asheville, NC. I picked the motor up for 100 bones and promptly pulled the motor out of the wagon and swapped it out over a weekend. I've been dailying the goon ever since.

Have you checked to see if the "reaction disk" inside the brake booster has fallen out/into the booster? That is the leading cause of the problem you have been having with the brakes.