elaka

Thank you all for the suggestions! Here are the pics of the pressure plate and etc. Pressure plate Pressure plate zoom I also have two pictures of old and new release bearings (it came with the clutch kit) One Two ...and they look different! I will take my time (this time around ;) ) to double-check the clutch-slave functionality. My major problem is with the transmission. If you look through the pictures on my original posting, the rear of the transmission is very greasy - I think oil was leaking out of it. I suspect the output seal or the area where shifter stick gets inserted. Should I pull the tranny apart or just forget it and put it back as it is? How common is it to have the transmission leaking oil from somewhere in the rear? I drained the oil and it was very dark-blue. The plug had some minor metal shavings attached to its magnet. I have no idea when PO replaced oil last time. It had almost two quarts of oil. I prepared myself for the job. My replacement clutch kit has the release bearing (not the same as the one installed!), pressure plate and clutch disk. I bought a clutch fork, anticipating the same problem I had earlier with Civic. I will end up replacing the corresponding old parts with the new ones in any case. I, however, was unprepared for the tranny "overhaul". It is not my daily vehicle and if I end up pulling the tranny apart I will get then the additional parts.

Hi Everyone, I have one 1982-720 Datsun Pickup (Z22, RWD, long bed, regular cab). Last autumn I was driving it and all of sudden selecting gears was harder than usual. I managed to drive it home and left it there, thinking that clutch bleeding will fix it. Ended up replacing a slave cylinder and it did not fix it; I could change gears with engine off, but not when it was running. Having experience with identical symptoms on a Honda Civic (clutch fork broke) I brought the Datsun' tranny down and was surprised to see the fork intact. I have no idea where to start, my goal was to replace clutch components + fork + release bearing. I will also change pilot bushing. Tranny side view Tranny top view Tranny side view-where is this gunk coming from? Tranny top view-Ithink the gunk is from there Please someone guide me in the right direction! :)

I did my own smoke test. It cost me 5 bucks:D Here is how. I bought a cuban cigar at a gas station, disconnected a blow by (PCV filtered) and AIV hoses from the air cleaner assembly and put it aside. I put a rubber glove with an elastic band over the carburetor's choke chamber (the very top), disconnected a brake booster vacuum hose and blew cigar's smoke inside the hose. Smoke came out of VVT valve, accelerating pump (i blew really hard:blink:), gasket btw the throttle body assembly and some thick spacer and another gasket btw this thick spacer and the intake manifold. Obviously, I will have to replace the gaskets. I checked the VVT valve and it is ok (although I forgot to pump air into the exhaust back-pressure hose and attempt to suck air from the vacuum signal opening). Excited I started to disconnect every vacuum line at a device and sucked air to see if it holds vacuum. A carbon canister, a distributor and a vacuum break diaphragm did not hold the vacuum. The first two released slowly while the last one let go abruptly. The distributor advances when vacuum is applied, but comes back if I do not continue sucking the air out of it. Is it normal for the three things to leak vacuum? Unfortunately I did not check vacuum at a boost control unit and a vacuum switch, but the by-pass air control works fine. Previously I thought that the choke was closing on me when engine was warm. However, it appears to be a fast idle cam not wanting to drop all the way down after pressing on a gas pedal while driving. The RPMs drop when I abruptly kick a gas pedal. So I drove and stopped; my idle was high; I kicked the gas pedal and idle came down; I drove again and stopped; my idle was high; I kicked the gas pedal and idle came down, and so on:D I wish I had some rum with that cigar:D

I put two pieces of rubber hoses with bolts at the ends and it plugged both pipes. It runs better, but still lopes:mad: I also have a problem with the choke closing on me while driving. I will browse the forum for the solution.

:mad: Two little pipes with rubber stops are missing (next to the accelerator pump). I will have to block the holes somehow. I'll do it tomorrow and update the results. Thanks Mike for the input on this one. The valves are quiet (for now):D

Hi Everyone, I have a 1982 Datsun 720 with Z22S engine. It has this engine problem: it 'lopes' on idle and misses in mid range. So far, I've done the following tests and repairs (engine wise): replaced all vacuum tubing (15ft or so) replaced all spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, air filter. cleaned and rebuilt a stock carburetor replaced a tvv (I did an EGR test and it failed, EGR is getting a vacuum signal and works fine now) replaced a vacuum motor (it was stuck open) replaced a PCV valve adjusted timing (it was like 30 degrees, back to 3 now) checked valve clearances (per Haynes 81-82 engines method) did a compression test (150 to 160psi all) on the exhaust side only (throttle wide open, coils grounded, did not remove the intake plugs) checked both coils with a spare spark plug (ok) Further, the auto-choke is closed when cold. It opens when hot, but not every time:mad: Anyway, adjusted a throttle cable linkage, etc. Fuel is getting to the carb, it is on the level and accelerating pump is working fine now. Played with a/f mixture and idle speed screws, it lopes nevertheless. I tightened intake and carb bolts and sprayed carb cleaner around when the motor was idling; there was no change in the idle speed. The engine sounds like valves are out of adjustment. I am out of ideas, please help me, anyone:confused: