Driftease

primary drive chain tentioner could be loose

CB's are easy to setup with microsquirt as it already has ignition trigger that will work with ms plus microsquirt has 2 coil drivers which is needed for a CB. get a throttle body rack and injectors off ebay for a gsxr 1000 for about 200 bones find a fuel pump and done!

These are great project bikes if you need any parts hit me up I have several we are going to be building a 750 with a 1000 crank an 3mm overbore on the 1000 jug in the next few months we also have a line on some good cam regrinds for it they are basically the cb900 profile and really wake it up at 3000+ rpm

If it is not clicking your battery may be dead, which will also cause no spark.

Good idea on welding the chamber, we are doing that to an old sr500 yamaha take modern design an apply it to an old head get the best of both worlds. E85 is also a viable solution if it is available in your area, I wouldn't call it a bandaid as it is pump fuel and not something like octane booster. Another thing you might look at is thermal coatings they only do so much but will help a little to enhance the chamber mods. good luck post pics of the progress!

Yup^^^^^ still not recommended. the only things i have used with points has been magneto ig anyways so the rules do not apply to that, no running no power to coil regardless of key position. The guy whom started the thread stated his coil is.6 ohm with no ballast that puts him at 22.6 amps and 13.3 with a ballast so i would say if he has no ballast resistor he would burn something up fairly quickly i guess it would depend on how fast the coil can dissipate heat.

A few minutes if the points are closed, Current generally peaks after 3ms that all depends on how hot a coil you are running and how robust the rest of the system is.

polishing the chamber will help too

Good tunning and a proper quench somewhere between .5mm to .8mm is the ticket good luck with your build..... by the way this is what donk is in america, eeeewwwww

Yes leaving the ig on when the engine is not running will burn up the coil or the points which ever comes first. The reason is that the points are a mechanical switch when the engine is running the switch goes off and on 2 times per rotation on a 4 cyl and is on less than 10% of the time so heat can be dissipated. If the engine stops when the points are in the on position the coil reaches saturation point and begins to heat (like overfilling a bucket) except when the coil is overfilled it changes the extra energy to heat and the amperage goes way up many times what the points can handle burning them up or welding them together, or the coil gets hot enough and internally opens the circuit (wire inside melts).

Are you going to be running your vac advance off of it or just curious?

By the valves being loose I meant excessive clearance between the valve and rocker due to the valve not closing all the way, too tight would be the rocker holding it open.

Could be carbon blocking the valves (some of them) open. My advise would to be getting it running first, romp on it a bit then recheck compression before pulling the motor. If your valves were extremely loose before adjusting them that would be a good indicator of something not allowing the valves to close all the way

Does it warm up correctly or does it just hold high idle after warmup. There is a bimetal (thermal electric) air regulator on the intake that may not be hooked up causing idle to not drop after warmup. If all of that is good I would check to see if your brake booster is leaking allowing extra air in.

It could be your spelling, lol. What ka do you have E,DE, car or truck they have different idle control systems.