gryffinwings

I've seen only a couple of post with these seats installed, so I found myself a pair of decent Z32 300ZX manual seats, they need to be the manual ones, easier to install. Anyways, barely anything you need to do to get these installed. all I needed was a bunch of washers for spacers in front and longer bolts and they fit perfectly fully adjustable manual seats. I wouldn't consider anything else. I will post pictures once I get both seats installed. Also, I found that you need a washer, because the holes in the 300ZX seats are bigger than the bolts that hold in the original seats.

Alright, I'm not for certain, but pretty close, but I think my fuel pump is shot, when I have my truck in the on position, I'm assuming the clicking I'm hearing is a relaying going off, when I put my ear near the pump, I not hearing the whiring of a fuel pump going, if the fuel pump was working, would it normally be a noticeable noise right next to my ear? I've already got fuel filters ready to go, but haven't gotten a fuel pump yet. Also if I do indeed need a fuel pump, I'll be ordering one from rockauto, any idea which one I need?

Wouldn't you smell gas when you take the cover off the air filter? If so, I'm not smelling it. Either my carb is gummed up and stuck, a clog or I have a messed up fuel pump.... :(

Having trouble starting my 1985 Nissan 720, engine turns over, I hear the fuel pump and it's rapid clicking sound. I had my truck on blocks for about a month I think to have better access underneath and it had the front higher than the rear. So I'm wondering what to do, could this be a sticky float? or something else, and how would I fix this......? Oh and one more thing, before I put the truck on blocks, it started perfectly, no issues, new plugs, new wires, new rotor and cap.... Please let me know if you require any additional information, and no I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty.

Anybody using MSD Ignition coils such at the 8202 or the 8222? I've been revamping the ignition system, and it still seems a little weak and I figured to go with the a good coil such at the MSD, mainly just for the intake coil and a regular coil for the exhaust one that doesn't get used all the time. What do you guys think? I've already done rotor, cap, and NGK spark plugs, I have have NGK Wires ready to install as well.

She was in the fast lanes and there was someone tail gating her, some I'm assuming that would actually be a dangerous situation.

I need some advice. My wife was just ticketed for speeding, my wife was ticketed for doing 75 in a 65, on the highway. Now the problem is, is that my wife has a really clean recorded, she was speeding up so she could pass and make her exit, she did this also because she had someone behind her. From what I could tell, she was being paced at night by the cop, and she was basically speeding up to pass and slowing down to stay within speed limit. My wife told me that the cop told her that she slowed down because she saw him, but this wasn't a normal car, it was one of those SUVs I guess that hides the lights. Anyways let me know what you think and if any more info is needed? I think she should fight it.

Thanks for the info, I'll be getting that, much cheaper option than MT90. :)

Thanks for the info, I'll be getting that, much cheaper option than MT90. :)

Wow, this is amazing stuff, are there any updates since then?

Going to be doing a gear oil change in the next few days, trying to find an appropriate GL4 oil, it looks like I might be able to find Redline MT90 at some select specialty shops here in San Diego, CA, so I am looking at some other options for gear oil. So far the one option I have found this evening was that Autozone stocks various weights of Valvoline GL-4, now I have no idea how good this stuff is and was wondering if anyone has used the stuff, they also have the Lucas brand, but I don't know much about there stuff. The other question is is the Redline MT90 worth the effort in finding a specialty store that stocks the stuff? Side note: Any recommendations on a rear diff gear oil?

So either cam is going to be a big difference from the stock cam. Because that thing feels like it loses breath at around 4000 RPM give or take. Thanks for that little bit of info :).

I've been looking at these 2 cams from COMP cams, they look like what I'm looking for, should bump up my torque decently. And at the moment, my engine is working great, it's not exaclty slugish and doesn't feel worn out, so I think I have plenty of life left in it, considering the hauling I did with this truck probably should have killed the engine or something else considering I've hauled over 500 lbs in the back. Either way, I was planning on overboring anyways, probably 30 over, or whatever my machine shop recommends, I've rebuilt an engine before a toyota 3TC, so doing the work isn't a problem for me. Brand:COMP Cams Manufacturer's Part Number:88-119-6 Part Type:Camshafts Product Line:COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts Summit Racing Part Number:CCA-88-119-6 UPC:036584191117 Cam Style:Mechanical flat tappet Basic Operating RPM Range:800-4,500 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:208 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:208 Duration at 050 inch Lift:208 int./208 exh. Advertised Intake Duration:252 Advertised Exhaust Duration:252 Advertised Duration:252 int./252 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.422 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.422 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.422 int./0.422 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees):110 Intake Valve Lash:0.010 in. Exhaust Valve Lash:0.010 in. and Brand:COMP Cams Manufacturer's Part Number:88-123-6 Part Type:Camshafts Product Line:COMP Cams High Energy Camshafts Summit Racing Part Number:CCA-88-123-6 UPC:036584191124 Cam Style:Mechanical flat tappet Basic Operating RPM Range:1,000-4,800 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:214 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:214 Duration at 050 inch Lift:214 int./214 exh. Advertised Intake Duration:260 Advertised Exhaust Duration:260 Advertised Duration:260 int./260 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.420 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.420 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.420 int./0.420 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees):110

This is true, however there come a time when the limiting factor isn't just the wallet, I can't build up a KA24 anyway I like but then after that I have to consider what the platform can handle, which this being a 720 pickup mean I have to do more for it to be able to handle and also the drive train being able to handle the extra power. You can't expect the platform to handle all the extra power without upgrades. However, I have been convinced that the KA motor while technically superior, I still want to know more about the limits and what kind of power output I should expect if I were to do the upgrades to the engine that I specify, personally I think if the engine is modified in the confines of the rev limit, meaning increasing low end grunt, I think I could get a decent amount of power out of it.

Thanks for that info. I'll have to look into valve springs. Not sure I'm going to need them since I'm not revving past stock levels. However getting valve relief cut into those Pistons sounds good.