Woody620

The old bearings got trashed.

The rods don't look like they were ever previously machined also that would have to be extremely coincidental that my others are the same size out of another engine. Which is why I think my mic might just be inaccurate, but then it doesn't explain my extra clearance. My first time actually getting into bearing sizes and it has to be super confusing.

I was told he went 20 under on the rods and he sourced the bearings as well, rods are still in the block because I didn't want to pull the head off, so they haven't been touched. One of the bearings was spun, which I understand that being out of tolerance but the other three matched it as well as a spare set of sohc rods I had that I measured out of curiosity.

I'm replacing the bearings on my ka24de and I ran into an issue. I got my crank and bearings back from the machine shop and checked my clearances with plastigage, my mains are perfect but my rods have .038-.051mm when spec is .010-.035mm. My brand new fowler digital micrometer isn't working so I bought a cheap harbor freight one to measure my inner rod diameter (torqued to spec, no bearings). The spec is 53.000-53.013mm and I'm getting 53.03-53.06mm. So my question is, Is it more likely that with how old the engine is the rods have expanded from heat or something along those lines or could my micrometer be wrong and/or the machinist have made a mistake? And what can I do to fix it? Can I get away with that amount of clearance And just always run a thicker oil like 20w50, or should I get my rods double checked more accurately and get new ones if they are out of spec? Sorry for the long question but I'm kind of stuck at the moment and I'm paranoid because I know these engines don't like rod bearings, unfortunately from a lot of experience.

$1800. Pretty fair price for the work and parts put into it. It ran and drove and I even delivered it to the guy and had one last fun cruise. Its in good hands now so I'm happy about that. A shop and hopefully an rb.

Sold it. My grandparent told me if I didn't sell one of my cars that I was getting kicked out. Even still shes trying to make me get rid of my motorcycle. I will have another datto later when I can afford it, but right now I need to focus on my life and building my career.

Pulled apart my carbs and found out the rear float was getting stuck causing the bowl to not fill, so now I've got the missing problem fixed. It's still sputtering a bit but I still have timing and carbs to adjust now and it was cold when I tested it so it could just be that too. As for the brakes, I spent 2 hours with a hand pump vacuum bleeder and they still don't work right. I doubt I'm going to try again unless I get access to a pneumatic vacuum bleeder. And I still need a radiator.

So I decided to replace the radiator cap so the system held pressure. and yesterday it decided to blow out the bottom of the radiator. anyone have one for cheap?

Ooooh, thanks for the idea draynor! I think I wanna try that!

Thanks man! yea, maybe if it was black and not chrome. my buddy bought a set for his bike, so I only have one anyways. I'm in Beaverton, Im pretty much always at the parc drift events in canby.

kind of random, but anyone have any thought on this? should I take it off or leave it?

It's just a theory. ^

I definitely have a return line, and the stock "regulator" (that piece if metal with the little hole in it). but I've also deleted the electric pump that was back by the tank so that's why I was thinking lack of fuel pressure. And when it was running better it was the gas can on the hood so less distance and gravity helping flow and making higher return resistance.

I haven't really messed with it much since I got it home. I was wondering if pressure could be a factor, I was going to see if I could borrow some hose pliers from someone maybe and just pinch the return line and see if it changes anything. if fuel pressure is the issue, then that would tell me pretty quick. Another friend said the float bowls could be an issue but in my previous video it was idling just after waiting for a bit after start up and I haven't messed with the carbs since then. I'm assuming they still need to be rejetted for my 2.8 and even maybe a bit bigger than that for my n42 head, but I don't know crap about rejetting.

yep. not sure why.