mnementh666

Damn you're fast, Mike. Thank you! And thank you too. I guess since I have no stock 4spd, no stock carb, and electronic ignition, it's safe to yard. Ha. Thank you guys!

Well I haven't given up or anything. Just family and job are taking precedent. I said F it and bought a full wiring harness, and I'm stripping the wiring out. Trying to plan out how the harness will adapt to the factory switches and stuff. Yoinked the engine, playing with stripping the paint. Might just get done aircraft stripper and go nuts, and repaint the bay. Bought some sound blocker panels, going to try to apply those to the firewall and doors, see if I can tame the volume level while it's running. Bunch of stuff on the agenda, just need to find time and motivation. Oh, and discovered the frame vin from the donor frame up front. Heh.

Found this attached with one of the hood release bracket bolts. I don't think it was connected to the dash harness. I can't find anything on the wiring diagram.

Got a universal sender in today, and much as I expected the mounting shouldn't be too much of an issue. A Stewart Warner gauge to read the sender as well. sender Pictures of old factory sender and new sender. One shot of the new with the old lock ring on top. I'll probably Dremel notches into the metal to match the lock tabs on the tank, rather than modify the tank itself. Then Tek screws to secure. That's the plan, anyway.

Well I started getting things situated to pull the motor. Had to pull the clutch master and tear it apart and clean it up, the valve was stuck open. That was fun. Anyone want a cleaned up oem fuse block? I think I'm going to completely redo the wiring. I found out the head is a rectangle port w53, so that's cool. The block is unknown if z20 or l20b, the id pad has been sanded off for some reason. And I need to helicoil an intake bolt. 😞

In case anyone is curious, or just for my own records... Sender: Float arm is approx 7.25" long. I didn't measure the float drop, but about 7 ⅞" from mount flange to bottom of tank. The sender hole in tank is about 1.615"/41mm dia. Lockring outer dia 2.78"/71mm Sender flange OD 2.56"/65mm It looks like adapting to SAE 5 bolt pattern might be feasible, and utilize whatever gauge to match sender ohms.

So this looks pretty much exactly like the one I have currently. I'm not spending that much though, I think I'd rather try to fabricobble an aftermarket setup somehow. I swear I just saw a service manual picture that showed this as an EVAP system sender, but now I'm not finding that picture. weird. Well, the instrument panel lights, turn signals, wipers, heater fan all have no power. Aftermarket gauges and headlights are working. Yay for electrical gremlins. Definitely time for a wiring redo. *sigh*

Well I pulled the sender from the tank... Eventually. What a pain. Anyway I think a new sender is in order, it was rusted/oxidized all to hell. The tank didn't look terrible, and was surprisingly empty. I guess I emptied the tank when I parked it. So that's cool. New plugs/cap/rotor, oil changed and coolant changed. Turned it over by hand a couple times, then spun it sans plugs for a while to get the oil and fuel flowing. Hooked it all up, and she started up! Sweet! Now I just gotta decide where to go from here. I think I will end up yanking the engine/trans and setting it aside. And start in on cleaning up the Mongolian cluster of wiring, and cleaning the engine bay.

Ouch that sucks. 😞 Hahahaha... No. It was outside. And I drove the truck for a couple years before parking it. And they were used tires when I got them. So for the sake of safety I'm going to replace them before it goes anywhere.

Nice, thanks for that.

Going to go pick up the antifreeze today, and do the D&R (assuming the damn drain plug comes out without breaking). Good call on the brake bits. I'll start smashing the pedal to see how that goes, and I'll flush the system before any road tests. But that stage is still a long way off. Got tires and other stuff to buy first, I'd imagine those tires are rotten to the core by now. Good call. I guess that implies removal. Is the filler hose readily available? Thanks guys for the input

Well it's been a dozen years or so, but it's finally time to get her at least drivable. She ran when I parked, so first steps will be the obligatory oil and coolant change, and cap/rotor/plugs. Anyone have any tips or things to watch out for?

Holley 390cfm 4bbl on a Offy intake manifold :fu: Weber 32/36 DGV is a great setup. Beware the jetting, as it hangs a lot of folks up. I'd suggest buying a couple of Weber books at the same time, such as: http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Carburetors-HP-Books-774/dp/0895863774 That'll help your understanding and maybe help with any troubleshooting necessary.

I have a set of the Bill's Datsun headers... almost three years now? Look handmade, so I don't expect Borla quality. Haven't had any issues, except for a gasket leak which I've *always* had problems with. :P And the paint. But that just makes 'em more Ratsun. :fu:

I have a L20B in my '71 521 with no clearance issues... I don't think there would be issues even with a clutched fan. The only issue that should come up is clearances for a... different... carburetor (think short airfilter). :fu: Double check where and how you mounted it. I believe 79D50 nailed it with the tranny mounting...