dross93ranger

Tagged it and threw on the Weber, she runs great! I pulled back the vinyl flooring as well and found rust holes near the wheel wells and front cab mounts are rusted out. I will replace the steel this winter the correct way, but for summer I bought some 22 gauge steel and will rivet it down to make a temporary floor and cover it back up with the vinyl until then. The only issue I am having now is my brake/daytime running lights on my driver side taillight do not work even after new bulbs. Hazards work, but turn signals do not. I will be trying to figure out those issues on Monday.

It's a Z22, I will be ordering off of Amazon. It is a real Redline, not the Chinese crappy one.

Ok so not much progress, but atleast that ugly primer is gone from the front end! I spend 3 hours with a scotchbrite pad and purple power and came out looking a lot better, cowl is the only part not done yet. Also my Weber gets ordered tomorrow when I wake up, and I started looking over the old carburetor just to ready myself for the installation and noticed that I have a mechanical fuel pump and not electric after all. Does anyone know what pressure the mechanical puts out? I have a holley fuel regulator I can throw on if its a good precaution, but it looks to have a return line.

very good information...are you running the factory fuel pump as well?

Ok first things first...the Datsun will be transferred and tagged this week. First rule of business is a brand new Redline Weber K 662 Carburetor Kit. So my question is...what does everyone run for their fuel regulator (part number or link would be great) or is a fuel regulator even necessary on these trucks. I haven't measured the fuel pressure yet. Weber says they need between 2.5-3 lb Tires will be next after it is running perfect and then the fun can begin.

Thanks, I will keep this thread up to date with my build and any questions I have along the way. Seems like a helpful site.

This is going to be a simple project, lowered, air shocks, weber carb. Basically making a good driving 720 that I can use to haul mulch and flowers when needed. I won't be starting this build for atleast a month if not 2, but figured I would make a page for it. I am open to suggestions as I need this truck to be extremely reliable, I work 30 minutes from home and will commute in it often. It has around 140k and a z22/manual, I would have to look to get the exact mileage. Needs: Fix turn signals (Flashers work, turn signals do not, guessing it is in the switch) Lower 4" (Torsion bars and Block) Install Air Shocks New tires (current have great tread and horrible dry rot) Weber Carburetor and fuel regulator New serpentine belt (Old is dry rotted) New seats ( reading Dodge Neon is a direct bolt in - currently has van seats of some type that sit way too high) New air filter (current one is nasty) Tune-Up (Spark plugs, wires, oil change, anything else I should do?) Replace a couple broken wheel studs Install radio and speakers install new tailgate handle (purchased) Here is the truck:

http://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/shock-strut-rear/gabriel-hijackers-shock-strut-rear//nissan-datsun/720-truck-2wd/1983/4-cylinders-m-2-2l-2bl-sohc/774315_631896_0?location=

That's a great tip on the hazard switch. I will mess with it this week and see if I can get it working. I work swing shift and have 2 daughters so finding time is tough at times. And air shocks can be cheap >$100 if you run a Schrader valve and fill up that way. I use a $20 slime compressor from Walmart that plugs into a cigarette lighter.

Illninstall air shocks for the days that I haul stuff, it will be driven a lot more then it hauls.

Ok...truck pics. The plan is to leave all the rust, drop it 4" or so and use it to haul mulch and just drive. If it prove reliable, then next year it might end up on air ride. it is an 83 with the Z22 motor, 4-Speed Manual. The Sonoma is my toy. My instagram is dross93ranger if anybody uses it, when the work starts this summer I will be posting regular on it. The only part I have ordered so far is a brand new tailgate handle since the current one is broken and I can't put the tailgate down.

I can afford a Weber, but it will probably be a couple months before I purchase one and get this truck road ready. The turn signals don't work, but the flashers do. It needs new tires. Ect... I drove it 20 minutes home from where I bought it with no issues, has as much power as its supposed to have, just won't idle on a cold start and idles rough once warmed up. I looked at the choke yesterday and it stays open all the time. When I push the gas it still stays open. I can close it by hand, but it immediately falls open again. It also doesn't look like it wants to close all of the way no matter how hard I push. I will get pictures soon and will definitely get some when it is roadworthy this summer. It's around 140k miles.

I might mess with it some and see if I can get it to work properly. I can get a rebuild kit for the Carburetor for like $12 plus shipping off of Rock Auto.

Do you run a fuel pressure regulator or just add the weber? I am really leaning this route. The weber really helped out my Chevy Luv.

I just picked up a 1983 720 with the Z22 motor. It runs great once you get it warmed up, but will not stay running until it is warmed up. I am guessing the carburetor just needs a rebuild. Rather then do that, I would like to run a brand new weber since I had good luck with one on my Chevy Luv. So anyways I have a couple questions: Is the weber a big improvement over the factory carburetor as far as reliability goes? Is this a good carburetor for this truck? I just want reliability (WK663 - 32/36 DGEV WEBER) Do I need a fuel pressure regulator? I see that it is recommended by weber to run a Holley unit that is set at 2.7 psi from factory.