blueridgespeed

Sale pending on Tan wagon.

Photos added to Ratsun post above.

Yep, we have DSL and a few neighbors are big users. I have to try at different times of the day and be very patient. It's better than dial up though. Photobucket tutorial posted here by Telkwa is much appreciated.

It's my ad ( it was, past tense). I posted pics the next day (I have a 1 mbps connection :crying: and CL timed out on me the first try) What I've got: 1971 Wagon, tan, L20b, Weber 32/36. Runs, doesn't really drive yet. P.O. gm hei conversion is junky. P.O. discarded fuel tank, presumably rusty. Does not charge. Drives, shifts, brakes ok around the property, but the P.O. set it up with a MOTORBOAT fuel tank in the back luggage area INSIDE, which scared me, so it's gone. I have a good used tank to go in it. Driver's door skin peeled away with odd injury. Ratsun member sold me a good replacement door, non color matching. The car has some rust and warts, but it's not bad. A close friend has dibs on that car. Things like the factory tachometer and the L20b indicate a prior owner/enthusiast with good sense. 1972 Wagon, Orange. Had L20b in it non-running when purchased. Leak-down test was poor, so motor was pulled. Set to work repairing some rust, also cleaned up and primered engine bay (PPG K36) That's how it sits. Actually sold it to a friend, who then needed his garage back, so I bought it back. He installed drop blocks on the leaf springs. I installed slightly longer ARP studs in the rear - it's a pain, but it's just a thing I've taken to doing on my 510's for safety and wheel-choice flexibility. Has some driver's footwell floorpan rust holes. Some goodies like 280zx struts with coil overs and ? camber plates with spacers....but not sure they're all correct...strut inserts appear adjustable but are not yet properly fitted. Offered the two-car package deal-for $5000 with an L20b here or there, a 4spd - or for up charge a 280zx 5-spd....buyer's choice. I talked with a LOT of Datsun folks, with virtually NO interest in wagons, but lot's of interest in the 2 sedan (2-doors 70 and 72) PARTS CARS that I have. They are rusty. No titles. Rusty. The one "ran when rolled" -ONTO IT"S ROOF! - but does have L20b and 280zx 5 spd. Driveshaft modified accordingly. The other car is a ghost-shell of it's previous self - few parts there except suspension parts, firewall, tunnels etc. Slim picking Other random stuff. A87 head. "Datsun 1600" valve cover. BRE manifold for L-16-20 Solex/Mikuni. ZX 5-spds. Set of 2-door doors. Good grilles and lower grille moulding. Diffs, crossmember (race-prepped rear control arm set, and regular set). ...lot's of stuff. Struts. 13x7 Libres. 15x7 32mm ET Watanabes - gosh, lots of stuff. If you wish to inquire about the SEDANS, the answer is NO. Nothing is good. There are no titles. Nothing can be restored. Nothing is worth your time to come out, so nothing is worth my time to explain this to you. Pardon the attitude, but having explained this, in no uncertain terms, to so many people made me tire of the process, so I took that ad down. I realize it sounds bitter, but really, it became a SUBSTANTIAL amount of time that I was wasting... and limited time was the motivation for offering these up for sale in the first place, so lesson learned there for me. re: the earlier question on the roadsters: The 63 310 1500 single carb 3-seat is a non-running assemblage of parts. Lots of parts, including NOS single carb, NOS BLOCK! in mummified Japanese crate, etc. It's been enjoying dry storage space in my shop and I've been accumulating parts, powder coating wheels etc. It's a "long run" project, but for 1500 nerd, it's pretty much something. Les Cannady's is the only earlier one known to me on the registry. This one's #76, a special number to me.... $6k as it sits. The 69 2000 Roadster I purchased from the original owner, a little old lady from Florida! (she wasn't old when she bought it, and she lived in N.C. when she sold it). The u20 suffered from prolonged stasis when she and her husband went to Germany. Ultimately, the engine needed rebuild, and I went all ahead full with that. I purchased u20 parts...OMG! (I bought my first 510 with nice mods (Mikuni's, LSD, 5-spd) for less than the going cost of a U20 TIMING chain/gear set! Anyway, the car was a nice example so I went with it.. custom head port, exhaust valve seat/bowl mod, cam, and JE pistons per Dave Rebello, designed for a fast street engine on pump gas - should better a b-cam Solex car by a bit, and the SU's are...SU's. I like the sound of side-drafts and the economy of SU's - stayed with the original spec.. full $700 Z-therapy rebuild there. Non-rusty car, repainted burgundy from the beige tan, now could use repaint. Glass and top all good. 14" Libres with new Yokohamas or powder coated OE steelies with new Michelins. 5-spd. Pretty much original high-windshield, later model roadster. 118k miles. $12.5k as it sits. Interested, solid folks (Ratsuners) may contact me via PM. It's easier for me to send pics to emails or text them to phones.

Dave Patten does us all a favor by posting reliable information here. Byron's brackets rule, mostly as an evolved solution for welding in to our stock, non-adjustable cross members. That's why Dave, who has been killing it for years, offers them for sale. Slotting works, but isn't as easy to adjust, and can induce binding with bushings. A spherical bearing setup on both ends of the A-arm will allow for mis-alignment, and racers have done this forever. I worked hard to make a better crossmember...and just only came close. Mine was a "custom penultimate" design- only adding camber adjustablility to the penultimate design..but it was a lot of work and not as simple, thus elegant, as Byron's solution. I gave it a real good go, but was late to the party. That was 10 years ago.

This is true. In fact, the VG30ET has the turbo - and exhaust downpipe on the Left side. In this build, the engine centerline was set to the Right 1.125" to make a little extra room. I found that this gained me plenty of room. In fact, there is more room (width) on the driver's side - it may not look like this in the pics but it's true. Our beloved (stock) L-series, of course, have "all the stuff" on the Left side. With the intake, exhaust, brake and clutch masters, and the steering column and box on that side - it can get crowded. Large side-draft carbs exacerbate the problem - ask me how I know. When you see a RHD L-series, it all makes sense (exhaust, intake on the L - steering column, brake and clutch m/c's on the right- nice balance) . I lived in Japan for a while in 1989 - space management is a skill well-demonstrated there. So - to your point - a Right hand drive car would be one solution - but in the case of the VG30et, which has a (mostly) central intake manifold, and exhaust manifolds on each side dictacted by the v configuration - a simpler space solution would be a R-sided turbo and exhaust. Some have done this. Many have made a front-mounted crossover pipe between the two exhaust manifolds (stock is rear mounted, right up against the firewall). The Z31 guys have quite a few creative solutions. Different solutions - they all work.

Man, that's a drag. I'd say you'd have a good "case" in small claims, assuming you have a copy of the contract and proof that you paid the final $100. However, the title is probably a more powerful legal document. I think the part that would be difficult to explain is how/why you had in the contract that if you didn't pay the last $100 she'd get the van back and pay you $400. Time and fees to go to court will be much greater than that $100. BTW be sure you send/sent the $100 via Certified Mail (not just delivery confirmation with signature required) Oh, and don't park the van at your house until you get this resolved. Mr's crazy holds the title. If she holds the title and the van - you're in a tight spot.

Jordan, this is an exceptional project in so many ways!. What is that solution you're dipping aluminum castings into to clean them? (like the Greddy manifold and oil pan). Is it just vinegar and time, or something like "wheel bright" -that slightly etching acid advertised as a spray-on cleaner for aluminum wheels? Or is is a special, secret sauce that's easily obtained, idiot proof, and inexpensive? I'm a hoping!

Still selling for $20 shipped, 5 stickers? If so, I'm in.

So for the whole car as it sits, minus the interior parts I'll take for my other car.. I dunno ... $300? It's really crusher material, currently worth about $200 if I load it on my trailer and bring it 9 miles south to the recylecers, but complete and if somebody wants, for instance, the hatch with vertical defroster glass, or the headlight buckets, or the struts or diff, or 4-speed, or doors or other glass or trim...it may be worth it. Early SU's? They're a $75 credit as cores with Z therapy, at the very least. Will consider part-out but don't really wish to $10 here $20 there, so please let me know if you need a few parts. I don't plan to crush anytime soon, but once I pull the interior out and put it in my other z, it's day's will be marked.... pm me for email and I can send pics of any parts.

PM me with email and I can send pics if interested.

Sale Pending.

thanks guys!

I'm in Asheville NC and a friend with a Bugeye Sprite is looking for a 5-spd tranny from 79-81 210. Please contact me here if you have a line on one.