slingshot532

Update on r1 carb status. Still running strong after a couple years. Running frontier dualcam head with Brian Crower cams, valves, springs and retainers. Block and tranny are from a single cam pickup, distributer is from L series motor. Diff is R180 front diff from 4x4 Nissan pickup. Fuel pump is a K and N carb electric pump puts out 3si. I add 1gallon of VP M5 to a full tank sometimes to compensate for the higher compression and it runs very smooth. Super fun. chttps://www.flickr.com/photos/slingshot532/shares/w31XLF

Somehow a valve adjustment shim came lose and broke in half. It chipped my exhaust cam. The motor had the classic ka24 valve tick so I took off the valve cover to check it out and sure enough.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/slingshot532/shares/0572Z9 Just got done rebuilding my motor. Got it started tonight. It's a pickup ka24e block with frontier ka24de head, Brian Crower cams, Light flywheel, Brian Crower valves, cheap EBay 4 to 1 headers... I had these carbs with the stock pickup head and it ran great. So far it's running good. I have a new electric pump and it's too strong so the carbs are overflowing from the vent tubes. The carbs are in the way of the battery. Stupid stuff. I do not recommend the ka24e to ka24de head swap. Just start with a ka24de and get the E Pistons. It's a lot of work and half assing stuff. But for the record it does work. Once I get the exhaust on I'll post more.

More info, pics, on how you mounted the distributor on the Ka24de. Looking sweet!

Tihs is how I fixed my high speed cruising lean problem. I am running one o-ring on the needle. After some thought it would be nice to cruse with a lean setting for good gas mileage. My problem is with the narrow band O2 I don't know how lean is to lean. Good luck.

Looking good!

Mad Max would drive that. That thing looks pissed off.

Good job Stupid!! Looks and sounds great! You are going through all the R1 growing pains. Check all your conections for air leaks: carb to intake, intake to head, This can cause strange lean conditions, maybe lean in one cylender. My rubber couplings kept coming loose causing poping. An A/F guage will also help. my o-rings leaked for a day or two also.I think if you soak the o-rings in gas while you have them out they should seal fine. Thanks for adding to the knowlege.

I would take the insurance money plus savings, sell the z and parts, part out the 510 and just keep what you want. That would give you the cash to buy a nice running 510 that you could enjoy right off the bat. You could modify it at your lesure. It sounds like the 510 was your daly driver, this way your back on the street right away. Good luck with whatever you decide. (plus the yard is cleaner, sounds like your dad wants you to clean stuf up.)

So sorry to hear about your car. I hope it gose well in court. It might help to print out similar datsuns for sale from craigslist or somthing. Sometimes ins doesn't know the actual replacement value of a classic. I did this for my civic si when it got rear ended(I cryed (I know this is a Datsun site but that was a fun car and I loved it)) and I got more for it. I used that money to buy my 510. Things work out. Good luck.

I thought shims wher only for needles with slots cut in them. I didn't think of using them to stack to fine tune. That is a good idea.

They are the same size as the needle. I can't remember, but if you take your needels in to O'rileys they can match them up. I put one o-ring on each needle and drove it. It runs smoother and the AFR stays in the same section of the meter, from the begening of the rich section to the middle. Feels like it has alittle more power.

This car is just for fun nuthing crazy. I don't do anything for a few mounths then get back to it. I don't spend much money on it. I actualy don't know much about carbs. I knew the basics before I did this swap and I have learned a lot. I don't race it , and I don't care if it's not perfect. The car needs so much other stuff anyway. So as long as it runs good and is not burning it's self up I'm happy.

This is how I am setting my needles. I am curently running no o-rings, tomorrow I will put one back in and see how it runs. On my gay, cheap, nerrow band sensor.

Damb it why do you guys always call me out? It is a nerrow band sensor, in keeping with the cheap build. So I don't know the exact AFR. I am usualy in the middle of the rich GREEN section of the sensor display. When it goes lean it goes off the red end so no lights are showing. Is this too lean? if not than I won't worry. My concern is crusing for a long time, 10-20 minuets and overheating the combustion chamber. As far as needle adjustment I found o-rings the same size as the needles and they work great. I think I posted pics on here.