TrouseLife

Finally got to do a bit of work on the truck today. Sunshine! Its been sitting in the cold (lows in the 20s, highs in 40s... not really that cold) for a month or so without being cranked, but it started up like a brand new truck. Very good start. However, the exhaust puked a mixture of water (I'm assuming rain), oil, and soot. I figure it is just water getting into the exhaust system from the tailpipe being slightly turned up. It has been raining like it never would again for days. The liquid was broken oil and clear water. My coolant mix is about 75% antifreeze and is very green. I might be looking a a new exhaust soon as I'm pretty sure I'm working on a good sized rust hole from the slightly upturned tailpipe. Glad I put the plywood in front of the dog house. Aiming to get the brakes worked on this weekend and be driving around the neighborhood this weekend. Hope all are well.

Been away from my project Datsun and happy to get my hands greasy again. After struggling last winter with multiple issues with my '82 SD22 (replaced battery, glow plugs, starter, motor mounts, clutch master cylinder, and water pump from what I can remember), I finally had to park it in April because it was burning more oil than I could afford at my then-unemployed state. It sat under my family's porch uncranked until November. My pops cycled the glow plugs a few times but couldnt figure out how I crank it. Mostly covered, mostly dry. Alabama. When I went to crank it in November, it was a very good crank considering it hadn't seen any life in 7 months. Ran the glow plugs 3 cycles before hit the starter. Quick start. Very sooty black smoke until the engine warmed up. I go to try and drive it around the block, and it was like trying to drive with the parking brake on. The nose of the truck dipped down upon trying to drive forward though. The parking brake was not engaged. I crept forward a foot or two and opted to not rut out the wet grass. When I reversed back into the garage area, it felt as normal as ever. No bogged down engine or strained clutch. Could this be some rust built up on the front brakes or something? That's the only way I can figure it without rolling up my sleeves. Waiting on a day with decent weather. -------------------------------------------------- More importantly though, it is certainly time to do some engine work (at +350k), and this is all new to me. When the Datsun was up and running last it was burning just shy of a gallon of motor oil per month in 3 months of high miles. Last year I think I averaged a quart every two months, but I'm always topping off fluids. Where should I start my diagnostics for the engine? I was thinking a compression test is in order and, in the least, a head gasket job is ahead of me. Perhaps some valve work? --------------------------------------------------- That's all so far. Hope all is well with everyone on the forum. Glad to be back. -TrouseLife

Good news everyone, after replacing the battery, glow plugs, and starter, bleeding the injector lines, and getting a bit more juice from a jumper battery, the diesel datsun purrs again. The old battery was assuredly bad, and with the new one in there, it was short work to get her started up again. The glow plugs were still getting power (even with the old battery) as I ensured testing them while warming them. I paid attention to how much time the new starter was spinning to be sure not to burn up a brand new one. Also, the engine will continue getting its xmas presents as I continue to replace parts and fluids once down in Alabama with the family. Thanks for all the support Wayno and friends, TrouseLife ...Now to go drive my baby around the block. Its been too long.

The starter has arrived. It is a refurbished part. The mounts are the same, solenoid looks the same; but the starter motor itself is definitely bigger. Much bigger and it wouldn't have been able to fit. The side of the starter body just barely touches the motor when bolted in. Here are the pictures: Size Difference And from above. So now its installed, and I've still got nothing when trying to crank it. Oh, and the injector lines are bled too. The manual pump worked much better than last time. Carried the battery down to the AutoZone to test/charge it, and it tested bad twice in three tests. It is 3 and a half years old, but I was hoping I'd get some more life out of it after I installed my auxiliary battery last year. So about to walk back and buy a new one. [What happened when I went to crank it: First time I keyed up, I just ran the glow plugs. Keyed up again, ran the glow plugs, and went to start - nothing. /scratched head/ When I keyed it up again, the relays went crazy clicking, and the "On" beeps sounded horrible. This says improper voltage to me, and I then go get it tested.] **Also** I desperately need to replace my air intake hose between my filter can and the large metal connector of the air intake. It is almost in the two pictures above but barely cut out. It is a ~2.5" ID flexible hose with hose clamps at each end. This hose of mine is shredded in multiple places, and I've just wrapped it in duct tape to make it solid again. Originally it was a rubberized wire-coil hose I believe, but I can't track down anything similar at auto parts stores, hardware stores, or even plumbing supply stores. My only other idea is to check at a RV supply store. The duct tape works but looks shabby and has to be replaced each time I remove the hose. Has anyone found a proper replacement or figured out a work-around? Thanks, TrouseLife

Yes, bucket seats indeed. I'd assume Id need to find a 60/40 split with room for the gear shifter similar to the early 90's Toyotas rather than the flat front bench seats that are more common. I always feel like I'm reaching for the glove box when shifting into 5th, and I'd assume the shift lever has more throw to it than most of the newer trucks with their small shifters. Eh? not as much bench as I'd want. Just wondering if anybody has already gone down this path. Kinda just hoping for a pick-a-part easter egg at this point. I know i said the word "Toyota." I apologize. I like that tach. Magnets too. Why didnt i think of that? Works just like a bicycle speedometer. Sigh. New water pump it shall be then. Oh how i love new parts.

Might as well ask some questions as I wait on this new starter: So, my speedometer doesnt work. It hasn't worked for a (long) while from what i understand from the previous owner. The odometer reads 186,xxx-ish, and that's laughable as well. The speedo cable has been replaced, and the transmission is not original to this truck as well as having been rebuilt this year. Just can't seem to get any spin to the cable. /perplexed/ Would there be a way that I'm missing to fix this issue at the back of transmission? cable? dash? I'd also like to eventually install a tachometer so that its easier for other people to drive my truck (especially if the speedo still refuses to work) without having to listen for the engine to say when to shift. I wouldn't even know where to start with this project. Mechanically measured off the motor? the alternator? This is quite different than my drive-by-wire TDI. My radiator fan bearing feels loose but ever so slightly. I have it in my head that its beginning to gradually have more and more play to it, and as I continue to maintain proper tension on my belt it wears worn bearings faster. Am I making things up now? Or should I just continue to keep the belt tight? I honestly just don't want to pull the radiator and front end apart to replace a bearing that might not need it yet. I'd also like to do some interior work this winter and really really really want to figure out how to fit a split bench seat in this king cab. I'd assume this would be a from the floor up modification from a pick-a-parts yard score out of another make of small truck. Has anybody else made this split bench goal a reality? or learned better? Perhaps I'm just crazier than i think i am.

I'm in Chattanooga currently. I mostly spend my time between Chattanooga, Knoxville, Asheville, and Dahlonega, GA - the Southern Blue Ridge Mountains section of the Appalachians. My family (and where I spend the holidays) is in central Alabama. Oh, and the IP Controller I've got looks really good... sitting in a milk crate behind the passenger seat ;-P I'm still thinking it'll be optimal to just run a push/pull choke cable rather than installing my newer IP Controller. Paying the $36 core charge seems mighty cheaps to be able to rebuild my current starter and have another one around. Can't say its not a bad idea, and from what I read about starter rebuilds is that simply cleaning up and de-gunking it goes much further than figuring outhow to braze on new brushes as well. Luckily my pops and brother are much more electrically minded than me. New starter gets here on tuesday... lets see how this goes. TrouseLife

Oh yeah, post-starter issues I'm hoping to do a quick injector bleed and see if this puppy wants to run again. Sure would be nice to drive back to the family for the holidays rather than hitching, but my thumbs have gotten me further than my truck has.

Another day of truck work - Tested the glow plugs with a flashlight bulb. All four are receiving power. The rod from my IP controller to my IP is disconnected. I don't stall the engine because I believe the transmission to have more issues than the IP, and why stress it if there is another option. I don't notice any movement of the IP controller (though disconnected) at all while choking. Also, after stalling the motor in the past I have noticed that my starter has a higher chance of not wanting to work the first try. When I say I choke it, thats the only way I know how to describe it. Please see attached picture. I just rotate the controller rocker towards the firewall til the engine chokes out. Apologies for the shabby picture and editing. http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy87/trouselife/IMG_20141205_125726654_zps425f4e85.jpg The fusable links are still OK, yet I don't understand why they would be required to run properly as the engine is 99% mechanical. The smoke puffs have been black. I pulled the starter and got it tested today. It confused the maching testing it and caused a bit of smoke to occur... slightly confusing. The auto parts store (AutoZone) was able to track down the starter but wont be able to get it here til monday afternoon. SO my big question with that is if its better to order up a new starter with a warranty or to rebuild the OEM starter. Part # 16771 according to them. $90 before core charge or tax. (link to 16771 though rerfurbished in the link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3371937&cc=1210374)$62 before tax and core charge for refurbished. I also found an AC Delco model on RockAuto. Part # 3361396 (link http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1001070&cc=1210374)for $82 Does anyone have any experience with these or any suggestions? My quote for a starter rebuild around here was $100 - $150. Lastly, without the proper tools... I still manage to get by. Here's hoping for my grandpa's multimeter for xmas. Thanks again, TrouseLife

So my IP controller is broken (luckily stuck in the "run" position). I've been meaning to install a push/pull choke cable in order to have all three original options - off, run, and start - but havent gotten around to it yet. As the truck sets currently, I have to open the hood and choke the engine to turn it off. Was planning to fix this over xmas when I have an indoor garage to work in again. I also have a possibly working IP controller I'm considering installing, but the idea of a manual cable sounds better to me in the long run. There is a coolant block heater in my box of parts to install as well. Also, I run straight petro diesel in the colder months and have run more than plenty to flush any biofuel out of the fuel system. Haven't checked compression. Left access to that tool in NC. I wonder if thats a loaner tool at auto parts stores. hmmm Haven't checked if glow plugs are receiving power. Lost my multimeter... somewhere... Alternatives to the proper tool? My fusable links look ok, but what do they run to exactly? And why might this keep the engine from push starting? As I said, I've had to push start the truck before whenever I couldnt get the starter solenoid to kick. Truck was running fine before mysterious No Start Condition. Normal amount of black smoke; normal fuel economy; normal minimal power. Fuel filter was changed in July. Been looking for a replacement to carry with me, but cant track them down anywhere. Ought I opt for a universal canister filter as a backup? Also, I do get smoke puffs when attempting to crank, and that would cause me to assume that I'm at least getting fuel past the filter and IP. I could be wrong... again... It has been nothing but mild weather here in TN since I got back. Hooray. Will more thoroughly inspect the fuel lines once it stops raining. Haven't seen any more drip spots than normal (mostly oil drips, some tranny fluid), and I do keep an eye on my levels every week. I plan to get the starter rebuilt this week at a starters and alternators shop here in Chattanooga. Been slinging xmas trees to earn some money for the rebuild. I'd rather be covered in oil than pine tar any day. Thanks for the link, Java&Whiskey. Seems like you got a good number of opinions on biofuel that don't have much background in it. Plenty of help too though. I started making B100 ten years ago for a landscape company in Houston then learned about biodiesel gelling after driving my TDI Jetta to New Hampshire one winter... oops. Finally, can diesel gelling in my fuel lines cause air bubbles? Would a simple injector prime solve this entire debacle? Will definitaly need to solve my starter problem before attempting to prime injectors though. Thanks all, TrouseLife

So, I'm not doubting at all that the starter is on its last leg, but any time I try to push start the truck I make sure to cycle the glow plugs two or three times (and this isn't the first time the starter hasn't wanted to play nice). The glow plug relay still clicks, and there are four brand new NKG glow plugs in the engine as of a week into this debacle. I haven't tested to see if all four plugs are receiving power or how many of the old plugs worked though. Also, now that I've gotten towed to the other side of the mountains and back into TN, the weather is substantially warmer. It has been over freezing since I got back over here. It was fairly warm in NC (over 60) a few times I tried to start it, and the day I tried to push start it here, the weather was quite warm and was well into the afternoon. The biggest thing for me is the expense of diagnostics. Even $50 for four new glow plugs is a pretty penny. I live out of the camper and am pretty lame without a drivable truck. Rebuilding the starter (as I don't have a spare) has been on the list of things to do while temporarily stable, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet (...or being stable). The most confusing aspect of this quandary for me is the newfound inability to push start the truck after cycling the glow plugs. It has always worked in the past. Oh yes, there is fuel in the tank and a proper amount of oil, coolant, etc. in their respective places. Is there something else I'm missing? -TrouseLife

I parked my truck a few weeks back in the mountains of NC and forgot to crank it for a few days in a row as it turned colder and colder (had a few days in a row below 32). There have been numerous problems keeping this truck cranking as is. So it sat for about 5 days before I tried jumping it off with another truck to no avail. I get puffs of black smoke from the exhaust but nothing too promising. I figured it would be time to replace the glow plugs anyways, ordered them up, and now there are 4 new glow plugs installed. Still no go. While even being jumped from another vehicle, the first few cranks would be OK sounding but never fully turn over, but a minute or two into trying to start up (6th or 7th crank attempt), there was hardly enough power to turn the starter. Then I tested the battery; tested A+ working condition and charged. Still no. After that, I assumed that perhaps it was the starter that was begining to go out on me and I should warm the plugs and try to push start it down a hill. Still no luck. Pushing black smoke, but no luck. Now I'm nearly at the bottom of a hill and quite disheartened with the circumstances. Any pointers? Wayno still around? Thanks in advance and happy turkey day, TrouseLife

Wayno, at this point we might as well cut out the middleman that is the forum and just have you along for my roadtrip. Finally got the engine up and running today... truly one of the more difficult fuel systems to bleed. Still trying to figure out the altitude setting, but I feel much more road worthy now. Also managed to fix a small fuel leak I've had at the IP for a while.

Oh also, the fuel cutoff switch no longer works and has been replaced with a choke cable. This gives me "run" and "off" but no "start" (excess fuel) option. Not sure if this would help at all... a bit of a pickle I've found myself in.

So every time I think I've got my head wrapped around this truck I find out how little I know. I've been getting my 720 ready for a roadtrip for the past few weeks. Was planning to leave on Friday and have been living out of the truck for a few days now. As I drove into town this morning I could feel the truck begin to lag. Everything about it said it's time to replace the fuel filter. As I based the top of the hill, the truck died. As in ran out of power and sounded cooked died. Put in the new filter full of clean fuel and cannot seem to get the IP to prime. I have the in-line style IP with the manual priming pump. The manual pump head doesn't move but had worked in the past; it feels fully primed. Any suggestions to help get me back to life on the road? Thanks in advance. P.s. updates on the camper: s780.photobucket.com/user/trouselife/library