Northport Datsun

Enhanced image here. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g6kK5aZyadQ/VO0FmxCvXwI/AAAAAAAAEmk/qR9L6QbyLSk/w473-h841-no/20150224_181153.jpg

I have glass fuses, 6 in the block. My truck is a 1976 620 regular cab. There's a photo link here. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nPfdV8DTIj5_CRj3pJsqcHvA5LCa5U0TK15Foe6EFaA=w78-h140-p Does that make sense? Did this ever have a cover. It seems like it would. I can't believe it was exposed and not labeled.

Loan me a 620 Fuse Box Cover to model, I'll print you a Death Star. That's an easy one. Did you know you can actually print threads with these things too? (I would go with the Helix Coil for a shifter, but it's possible).

I would try it, I just need a sample to model from. It does not have to be perfect.

I started this post to share my experience installing a SSS manifold and SU carbs on a L20B in my 1976 620. I've seen a few of these set ups and most involved additional cables to pull the throttle open from above the center of the manifold. I wanted a share a fairly clean installation that uses minimal parts and keeps it as close to stock as possible for reliability. This only requires two parts to be fabricated and no additional cables. It's also adjustable to get the right angle to rotate the throttle shaft fully and it retains the original tensioner to take up slack in the stock throttle cable. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3he3PNDrQTY/VMatUfA-wdI/AAAAAAAAA_0/es5-YES89L8/w473-h841-no/20140706_191225.jpg My set up uses the stock cam and cable. I removed the cam that accepts the cable on the stock downdraft carb. It's a small half round cam with a groove in the center for the cable and it has the hole for attaching the end of the throttle cable too. Obviously, this was all stock so it mates perfectly together and it is reliable. I welded a nut on that cam and used a threaded bolt to attach it to the U shaped throttle shaft end on the Manifold. I welded the bolt on the U shaped throttle shaft end. If you use a threaded nut welded to the cam and thread it on to the bolt now welded to the throttle shaft, you can adjust the position of the cam to get the right angle for the throttle cable. You will do this adjustment at the end. Cam on end of threaded bolt: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YZSkhii940w/VOEoG-3xPhI/AAAAAAAAEj0/XZDeLb-sx_Q/w473-h841-no/20150215_170401.jpg Bolt welded to throttle shaft on the manifold: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2MAYqV3KWqY/VOEog5nx9gI/AAAAAAAAEj8/Qq9R_7-cNS8/w473-h841-no/20150215_170518.jpg Now you need to make an L shaped bracket to hold your throttle cable in place. The bracket will mount to the manifold studs. You can lengthen these studs if necessary. I used 1/8th thick steel because I want no flex in my linkage. I cut the end that holds the cable off the stock bracket and welded it to the new L shaped bracket that bolts to the top studs on the intake manifold. The dimensions are not that complicated. Thread the throttle cable into the cam on the shaft and hold it in place. Take two measurements off the studs for the height and length of the bracket. Make one out of cardboard first if you have to and check the fit. The next pictures are before after final assembly. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VbM0tZD-QOE/VMatYKwImlI/AAAAAAAABAY/XFwcIgF8J8I/w473-h841-no/20140704_113526.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-094k6jcEkzA/VOEn4ow8PUI/AAAAAAAAEjs/u927OA1VxMY/w473-h841-no/20150215_170243.jpg Once these are complete, assemble everything together and adjust the cam so it is directly under and in-line with the cable (that's why you use a threaded bolt to attach to the throttle shaft on the manifold; now you can adjust it perfectly even if your bracket requires you move it a little). You can also adjust the cam clockwise and counter clockwise to accept the throttle cable and rotate perfectly. It's optional to weld the cam to the shaft at the end so it can never fall out of adjustment. I did (as you can see), but make sure your happy with the position of the cam first. The cam should never leave the cable with slack, and it should rotate until the mechanical stop forces it to stop. Ensure you have full rotation before you weld it permanently to the shaft. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wa7780aVeHM/VMast8ULqYI/AAAAAAAAA5U/J2bpYWPdEL0/w473-h841-no/20141214_184959.jpg

A spare shift knob is exactly what I need to model one. Message me for an address if you willing to part with it for a short period of time. The cracks will not matter.

Please take a picture of what you have. Let me see if I can work from it. I'm posting the drop in Cup Holder for the console very shortly. Then, a replacement for the Glove Box Knob will be posted. I'll look at that inspection lamp lens too (I have one of those). I might be working on a Fuse Box cover also (which I'm missing completely). I noticed that the fuse box cover that some one posted has what appears to be lettering to indicate the fuse size and function. Did I mention that I have access to a Laser Printer? Now, wouldn't that be cool? 3D print the cover and then laser engrave the lettering!

I have an Engine Inspection lamp from a Series 1, 240Z. Is that the same? A 1/10th scale truck is too large to print. Something smaller than 1/20 is possible. I have not figured out if it should be modeled or scanned. It might be possible to take a Hot Wheels 620 and scan it. It might make a cool key chain. I do not have one though and it might need to be sprayed in grey primer to pick up the scan. (so the toy might need to be sacrificed). I do have a scanner though.

It's possible to make some money from reproducing parts. I'm starting slow to get all the problems worked out. I'm working with the parts I'm missing and can't find or are just too expensive. There's a few steps involved. Parts need to be measured first, then modeled (that means a 3D image must be created). I'm working with a modeler to get that part done. 3D scanners, or Digitzers just do not capture enough detail. At least, not the one's a consumer can purchase. Printing is limited to certain materials based on the Printer you own. I'm limited to PLA, which is fine for most objects in a car, but under hood might require ABS and something like an exterior lens might require something pretty exotic. My modeler and I have not figured out how much time is involved yet. We are still getting our feet wet. Printing is the easy part. Before you print, the software tells you the run time and the amount of material that will be used. That makes it easy to figure out the cost for printing. The next step we are working on is going from a CMM to a 3D model. That would save a lot of time. As you can see this is all very new, and it's still developing. rharm78; send me a picture of the shift knob you have. Let me evaluate if I can get it done base on your part. Anyone else have something to create?

Your old one is exactly what mine looked like. We modeled it from a partial lens. Looks great in your truck. Glad it worked out. I'm satisfied now that it fits. I could not be too sure with my old housing. Thanks for the feedback! That's one done. That part is now "free" for anyone to download off Thingiverse and print out. More to come. (I probably should start a thread on my builds. Here, I'll stay on topic).

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R5JjQg8ZN4g/UpyK7CxYIWI/AAAAAAAAAOs/uN3qq-MjOSk/w941-h751-no/20131130_124237.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wa7780aVeHM/VMast8ULqYI/AAAAAAAAA5U/J2bpYWPdEL0/w473-h841-no/20141214_184959.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S_lWR4kOA8Y/VMas8o7-NOI/AAAAAAAAA7s/-53ZXR4Wumc/w473-h841-no/20141112_184339.jpg My 620 BTW. I wish I could simply post a picture, but apparently Ratsun is a little different for everyone. I was able to find a way to post links though. We are finishing the Cup Holder this weekend. We are working on the Glove Box Door Knob also. I have a 1976 long bed automatic, I removed the emission carb set up and put a SSS set up from Paltech and a set of Hardbody discs from Mike Klotz. Problem now is finding enough time to drive the Z, because the truck is so much fun.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JMNJWPNFxfM/VNdadQBTWRI/AAAAAAAAEi8/3nxhP_CwQ60/w473-h841-no/20150207_183559.jpg Prototype cup holder I'm working on now.

Excellent Joe Cool, excellent. Try my lens and don't force it. If it's loose or tight, the beauty of 3 modeling is one quick scale change, and another can be printed for a custom fit. I'll gladly make another. Giving me a part I'm missing to model is way cool. Thanks a million. I'll post the fuse box cover as soon as it's ready. And, a shout out to 77Adam77, thanks again for the glove box knob. That's another part I'm missing. I'll get that measured and returned ASAP while I model it. Another soon to be posted part. ( and that's one I don't think is for sale anywhere too). Printing the first prototype drop in cup holder right now. Can't wait to not have to hold my Espresso while I navigate my 620 to work in the morning.

That fuse box cover could be modeled and printed. It does not look too complicated. I would have to start with one that's close to the right shape. It doesn't matter if it has a hole in it or if one side is missing (if it's symmetrical). Mine is missing. Anyone have one? I would appreciate loaning it to me for modeling and posting. About that 411 Tail Light Housing; that could be done, but this is where the economics of what you want to duplicate come in. It's too large to digitize on a consumer level 3D Scanner. They only handle objects about the size of a 6" cube. It would need to be modeled using CMM to capture all the complex curves, then it would have to be printed on an industrial size printer. All those services would cost a lot of money and if there's not enough demand you would never recoup it. So, sometimes the most economic thing to do is find a better replacement. As you see from the prior post, you can buy an entire fuse block with the cover included, brand new for about $40.00, but you could print a 3D replacement for pennies.

Fuse box cover, that's what I'm talking about! Mine is missing completely. Send me the broke one and let me try it. Mailing out a lens to Joe Cool today. Let me know how it fits. I'm not sure if all the housings were identical and how worn the tabs are. Mine is brittle and worn, but not to worry, the beauty of 3D printing is that you can easily scale the model up or down and make slight adjustments. Very close on the drop in cup holder for the console. I actually have the design modeled but we are tweaking it to reduce the amount of filament. Can't wait to post it, and anyone that sends me a part to model, I'll offer you a print too.