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Six_Shooter

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About Six_Shooter

  • Birthday 02/24/1977

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  1. :facepalm: I work with automotive electronics, this includes automotive electric motors. Connect a starter, electric fan, or any other automotive or for that matter non-automotive DC motor in a "reversed polarity" and it will indeed run in the opposite direction than it would wired in "forward polarity". It is only (most) AC motors that do not care about polarity. BTW, those "hobby motors" you speak of also use windings, open one up sometime. ;)
  2. A DC motor will turn in the opposite direction when the polarity is reversed.
  3. Six_Shooter

    L28

    I agree with the above. A 240/60/80Z front end isn't that long just because it looks good. :D
  4. Even if it was connected to constant power (which after the last reply it was), it would NOT keep the engine running. The Tach connects to the negitive side of the coil, for signal. If, in some messed up way the tach did supply 12v on this wire, it would likely cause the engine to not run. The Diode in this case is needed to keep power (proper term term for volts and current ;) )from being back fed to the ignition switch, or more speciically to the ignition wire, that is also attached to the positive side of the coil. Most newer alternators have this built in, but older alternators, don't an can cause the situation that was the cause for this thread being started. I'd have to look at some wire diagrams, but it will be the wire that supplies 12V to the alternator to turn it "on". Cut this wire and install the diode with the stripe towards the alternator. Either of the diodes listed above will work, along with many others. As long as it's not a Zener or Geranium diode, it will work fine.
  5. Painting the head will not effect the ability for the heat to be dispated in any noticible amount. I would however, remove that flex fan imediatly. I know of more than a few people that have experianced problems when using flex fans like that. Usually ends up in the water pump being ripped apart, and the fan going through/into the rad and/or hood. Just this past summer a friend of mine with a very nice Chevelle, had that happen, his car was out of commision for a couple weeks while he replaces the fan, fan shroud, water pump, water pump pulley, and then had to wait another month for the hood to be fixed. Go back to a clutch fan, or better yet an electric fan, and you won't have to worry about any damage caused by flex fans.
  6. I'm a PC guy and have been since I bought my first computer. I've used MACs briefly and since I'd being using a Windows emulator with it most of the time I'd be using a MAC, I realize that a MAC is not for me. I've assembled a couple of my own PCs, and am going to be assembling another one hopefully this weekend if I can get the HDD I need. PCs run fine for me, and I know that if I had a MAC, I'd experiance the same problems, that's just the way it is. I've done the same thing with other products, bought the more expensive "better" brand and experianced the same problems. It's all just electronics, and all electronics fail at some point. MACs look nice, but I like my PCs. :) I don't understand the idea of getting pissed off at the manufacturer of the Laptop when the trial version of software ends. Go buy a Dell, with trial versions, then boycott them when the trial versions of the software runs out, rince and repeat with Lenovo, HP, etc, etc.
  7. Stock L28 EFI? Disconnect the plug at the ECM, clean the contacts, that seems to work for many people, when they are experiancing problems with these early EFI systems.
  8. No, the coolant doesn't care what direction it flows through the rad. I'll be swapping from a vertical flow to horizontle flow in my 240Z this winter.
  9. The build looks good. A couple comments: There's nothing wrong with parralel 4-links. Street rodders have been using them for years and there is NO problem with handling. The only thing is the IC = infinity, so getting traction under hard accel can be an issue, but most bagged trucks, aren't being used for drag racing. ;) Chris Alston Chassisworks sells parallel 4-link kits, as do other companies. When installing a non-paralel 4-link, I would add adjustable attachment points. If the IC is wrong you can actually end up with less potential traction than using parralel, or even leaf springs. If I were to do a stock floor body drop, which is the only bdoy drop I would do, I would likely go to using round turb for the section under the cab. Stacking Tube can provide a very strong frame rail. Also running a hoop towards the trans tunnel, then adding a raised "back-bone" through the trans tunnel to add a little more strength can work well. Not an easy thing to do, but has been done and works fine. The other thing to do is solid mount the cab to the frame, add some bracing to the cab, as this will also act as a stiffening member of the entire chassis, allowing a shorter frame rail, to lay rocker, but not have to worry about chassis flex. Any new updates?
  10. So it's been established that a few of us play paintball. I bet there's more. Post some pictures of you gat(s), and maybe some action shots. Here is my main rig: It is a Bob Long Protege, that has the Marq'd for death grips, lever lock feedneck, Gear Drive On/off, a custom made ASA wedge to angle the tank up. I found that the tank being straight out the back placed the barrel too high. I will be putting in the 4C eyes tonight, since I have practice tomorrow. The Halo now has a rip drive with NDZ rip drive wheel. I also have a red Empire tank cover for the Pure Energy 68/4500. I have also installed a custom trigger, that came with my back-up. My back up is almost the same, it too is a red Protege, but has a CP on/off with CP rail, stock grips. It came with an LP poppet and pillow bolt, but have since re-installed the HP poppet, and swapped the bolt with my other Protege. When I first got the back up: It had a different feed neck on it, I have since installed a BL Lever Lock feed neck. The back up is on the right in this picture, I have also swapped the custom trigger to my main rig, the CP reg wasn't used long on my main rig. I have been on a team since about June, and played my fist tournament about a month ago. The team is a bushball team, but will be entering a Speedball tourny next month, to see how we like that. If we do, then we will enter at the start of next years season, since this next even is the last for this season. Here are some pictures of me from the 1st tourny I was in: My protective gear is Invert pants, Invert jersey, JT Flex8 mask with yellow lens + KM strap, Evil headband, Empire 4+5 pod pack, Empire arm/elbow pads and Adidas soccer cleats. When I'm not in tournament I will use my Evil jersey. My team has a roster of about 12 people, ans so we usually enter two teams in to each event. The team I played on placed 3rd in both events, the other team of ours placed 4th in both tournies. So what's your gear and play time like?
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