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Member Since 05 Nov 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 07:36 PM

Topics I've Started

Can anyone give me 280ZX caliper & carrier weight?

24 December 2017 - 09:47 PM

Does anyone have a 280ZX front caliper with the mounting bracket they can weigh?

Reason for the question is two fold; my car has 280ZX struts but the calipers have been milled to fit inside 13" wheels. I want to know much weight everything ways before milling. The amount is likely negligible but I still want to know. Note to weigh them properly they need to be off the car.

I'm also looking at mounting Cressida calipers (7lbs with bracket) so I'm trying to calculate the weight savings. I believe it may be as much as 5lbs. At $23 per caliper fully loaded from rockauto it would be a pretty cheap way of cutting 10lbs of unsprung weight.

Rear Axle alignment odd tire wear

26 July 2017 - 08:17 PM

So my  1200 race coupe has this bizarre wear pattern; inside edge of tires get scalloped out. Further inside edge is feathered as if the rubber is being pulled of to the inside. This could be a result of my somewhat driving style (read stop sling the car like a fiend) I don't think its a result of to much camber from something like bent axle tube (if it was i wouldn't expect the feathering)   Guesses welcome.  I think its possible the housing is moving around on the leaf spring centering pins.





 I suck at posting photos  it's here



H190 510 Goon axle seal the fits in brake backing plate info

24 July 2017 - 09:22 PM

The H190 that's in my 1200 coupe is from a 510 wagon; whoever originally assembled it did so incorrectly and as such the axles had something like 2mm of play in them. I corrected this by fabing some spacers that contact the outer race of the bearing. Note I've been running it this way for the last 5 seasons, no leaks damaged bearing etc.

What I believe is missing a seal that fits into the rear of the backing plate. Near as I can tell there is some kind of spacer or seal that fits into the taper on the backing plate. So 510 wagon guys can you tell me the exact sequence of parts and what they should be?

Example starting from the flange working inwards should the sequence be;

1. backing plate
2. Tapered seal
3 spacer
4. Bearing
5. Inner spacer
6. Seal

I'm Going to be installing some different wheel cylinders and while I'm at it I'd like to put the correct parts in the axle rather than my hillbilly fix.

Brake balance 7/8 vs 13/16 wheel cylinders

02 June 2017 - 09:44 PM

On my 1200 coupe I'm looking for more rear brake. I tend to go with more rear brake than most club racers so I'm looking for simplier ways of doing this before going to the trouble of fitting dual master balance bar etc.

The front calipers are the ubiquitous 280ZX and the rear brakes are 510 (H190 Wagon) with Z car alloy drums. The rear wheel cylinders are 13/16ths and I'm contemplating going to 7/8ths. If anyone has tried this I'd like to know the results.

Also before anyone says just add Wilwood or Tilton pedal set; to do that properly is more work then most people think it is.

Considering going from A to L series (again)

30 January 2017 - 08:48 PM

So I'm interested in some feedback from guys racing or tracking L series cars.

Here is the scope my A15 is belting out about 105whp 110 at best. While this is an huge improvement over the peaky A12 that dynoed at 80whp (top speed went from 98 to 111mph) and it also has some decent mid-range it still needs a close ratio box or more correctly a C/R box that won't break behind an A15

So in searching for something that will emulate the motorsports mid close ratio box I keep stumbling on 71 series boxes 280ZX or Roadster 5 speeds that fit the bill. Additionally for the $3000-$4000 a proper C/R box for the A-series would cost I think I could easily build a low stress larger displacement engine.

Well that lead to me thinking why not just stick in the L series engine. The vintage race class / group doesn't have issue with this a the Sunny Excellent AKA PB110 used L series engines, so eligibility isn't an issue. I can run up to 2.0 (L20 is a tight squeeze under the hood)

By comparison an all out A15 is 150whp vs 175whp for an L18. Additionally I have a friend racing a GTL 510 getting around 130whp from a restricted (per SCCA) L16. So the thought process is I could easily switch to an L16-18 etc and get 115-120whp that had decent mid range that didn't require revving the nuts off it. Note my A12 was revving to 8600 where as the torquey A15 makes decent power at 4500 and I only rev it to 8200. I try to limit the A15 to 7800 as it will last several seasons rather than wearing out the rings every 10 events.

The few negatives are the L series will add 50-70lbs to the car, I have good cylinder heads from the A15 and I'd need to fab a manifold to fit the FCR flatslide carbs I use now.

Positives are I already have an H190 in the car as well as ZX brakes and struts and L Series is a near bolt in for a 1200.

So how available are the V912 heads, what are service intervals to L16-18 revving to 7500-7800 on a regular basis etc? The L series build ups are well documented but not a whole lot of info on maintenance intervals and current parts prices.

Just looking for some thoughts from the group.