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Member Since 05 Nov 2013
Offline Last Active Jun 20 2018 04:55 PM

Topics I've Started

H190 510 wagon axle end play; what parts wedge bearing in place?

12 March 2018 - 09:16 PM

If you've seen my post on "handling still needs work" I may have found the issue.

Using a dial indicator and pushing / pulling the axle in and out there appears to be 6-8 thousands of play. Combine both sides and that's a 64th of an inch.

When I got the axle it was clear something is missing; with the backing plate torqued down to spec I could move the axle shaft 1-2mm. In order to cure this I put shims in the axle housing behind the bearing. Note that even taking all the backing plate shims still left to much slop.

On the axle there is the bearing and collar. In the housing there is the axle seal and nothing else (other than my non stock shims).

So my question is what is supposed to wedge the bearing in place; Is the bearing supposed to bottom in the housing (metal outer circumference of bearing against housing) and then the backing plate wedge the other side of the bearing?

From the schematics it appears I have missing parts. Most notable is no grease seal thingy. The bearings are sealed bearings so I'm to worried about that but as the H190 is different than the H145 that was in the cars for years, I don't no if said grease seal takes up some of the end play. There also appears as if there is supposed to be a spacer behind the bearing.

Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated.

I'm thinking the handling still needs work (video included)

05 March 2018 - 09:39 PM

The video (link below) is from a race two weeks ago; I'm in the red coupe just ahead of the camera car. You'll notice a ton of oil dry, in the group before us a Devin SS lined the course.

Ignore the wayward handling in turn one as I'm half in the marble and sawing at the wheel like a fiend. At the top of the hill everyone lined up like lemmings and braked early so I popped out and went for it, you can seem me get off the brakes and then back on them.

The driver of camera car (510) said he nearly went off when he out braked me.

The handling is nowhere near as unruly as the last video I posted but Mmm yeah it needs work. For my part as the loose nut behind the wheel it the car handles excellent (it actually does) but I know I'm way more comfortable with oversteer than most people.

Sadly my race ended on lap 3 as the motor went kablamo but for a car sporting 50-90 less horsepower than the cars I'm dicing with it does alright.


Ever have a strut gland back off?

21 February 2018 - 09:23 PM

At this past weekend's VARA race at Spring Mountain I had the gland nut in the right front back out. During the first sessions of the day there was this weird grumble out of the front that I initially thought might be a wheel bearing. Upon jacking up the car we discovered the gland nut had backed out almost completely. I simply threaded it back down and then tapped round till it was tight.

One of the 510 drivers told me he has had this happen. In 29 years of racing the 1200 I've never had this happen.

The handling in the Esses was rather interesting; the car would go left, right & snap into the final left.

H190 LSD parts still available?

21 February 2018 - 09:14 PM

Anyone know if shims discs etc are still available for Nismo LSD?

After last weekend's race I've decided I want to tighten mine up a little; the rear suspension on my car has fairly limited droop travel and during rapid transitions it's possible to get a little bit of wheel spin.

Finally put the 1200 on a Dyno, survey says 98whp.

03 February 2018 - 10:44 PM

We put the 1200 on a Dyno yesterday. The shop uses a Mustang Dyno.

My motor specs is as follows:

A15 1508cc
76.5 MM forged JE pistons
14lb flywheel
Ported GX cylinder head with SI (narrowed stem) 37mm intake 30mm exhaust & Isky duel springs
Delta 278 cam (280 advertised duration .420 lift)
4-1 header 1.75 ID collector
Keihin 39mm flat slide carbs.

The motor made 98HP at 8000 rpm and 78ft/lbs torque peak at 6700.

The torque curve is very flat making 76-78 from 4300 to 6700.

The powerband is also decent; making 95hp at 6500 and 98 from 6700 to 8200.

The car is running rich and I'll need to drop the main jets down probably two sizes which should net another 3-5hp.

The exhaust pipe at the header flange is jacked up; I'd sold the car back around 1998 when I was racing a motorcylce engined sports racer, the person who had the car then redid the exhaust and unfortunately it was not done well. Then header flange has a 1.75" ID but the ID at the exhaust flange is 1.5" and if that's not bad enough there is a 3-4" run off 1.5" pipe stuffed inside the 2" exhaust pipe. When I got the car back a few years later I had no reason to examine the exhaust, the only reason I discovered it now is that I was drilling the exhaust to fit an O2 sensor for an air fuel gauge (yes kiddies I was reading the plugs to check the jetting).

So there's probably an easy 10hp to be had between the jetting and "removing" the outlet restrictor. Long term the goal was to get the car around 120whp so a few small fixes will get it halfway there.

I wasn't expecting more than about 105 so the motor was pretty much in the ballpark. All in all it's pretty good for the level of tune. Also back in the day a top level A12 national motor put out around 100hp to the wheels so the performance is probably what it would have been back in the 70s

The bonus side is it feeds my driver ego; given I'm mixing it up with cars that while being as much as 300lbs heavier also have 50-85 more horsepower advantage. No wonder I'm having to drove the living snot out of the poor little car.

A friend also brought his 2.0 914 which made 101.6 whp, which makes his driving all the more incredible given his car is 2100lbs and he's going 3/4 of a second a lap faster than I am.