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Member Since 05 Nov 2013
Offline Last Active Jun 20 2018 04:55 PM

#1570883 Best battery for a B210???

Posted by Tom1200 on 20 June 2018 - 04:55 PM

In my 1200 I'm using a group 51 Honda Civic battery, a Miata battery would work as well. My motor has 11.89 compression and the battery has no problem firing up the motor. Also note the flat slide carbs on my car have no choke so a I have to crank the motor more than you would on a street car.

As for brand I have an Autozone battery because here in the desert batteries don't last more than 3-4 years. I always preferred Interstate and had good luck with them, I was managing to get 5 years out of them. I was also getting them at a discount.

#1570498 Suzuki GSX-R carbs on A-series???

Posted by Tom1200 on 17 June 2018 - 07:00 PM

This will break your heart, I got mine with the manifold for $250!

If you shop around carefully you can find them for the same price you'd pay for Mikunis. You have to look around on various bike sites. The smaller sizes, 39mm, can be found for a lot less, I've seen them as low as $500 but you're more likely to pay $750 to $1,200. Like anything you need to shop around. Nothing should make you shy away from a used set, they are simply but absolute works of art.

The FCR carbs flow more than DCOE style carbs mainly due to the lack of a throttle shaft (8-10mm restriction). Even if you spend $600 more they make enough power to justify buying them. My otherwise standard A12GX motor with the only change being the Keihin carbs made 73whp. That is 18hp more than the SSS (DCOE carbs) motor done in New Zealand and the twin carb standard GX motor. The D-Sports Racer guy I got the carbs from said the made an instant 12hp increase on there race A13.

Also a big plus for left hand drive cars is you don't have to move the brake master like you do if you wish to install a pair of DCOE style carbs.

They only knock I will give them is you need to run pod filters on the street or fab up a custom air box. The motor will make more power with a proper air box.

#1567713 1.4L race motor needs more ...

Posted by Tom1200 on 30 May 2018 - 09:13 PM

Tim I've always used bronze guides, they are $4-$5 or so. Other guys may use something different but I'm revving the motor to 8200 and they've never given me an issue. My one cylinder head had 50 events on it, the head gasket popped but the guides still appear to be fine.

The springs I have are used, I have the retainers as well so I'm thinking $75.

#1567450 1.4L race motor needs more ...

Posted by Tom1200 on 29 May 2018 - 07:42 PM

Tim I have a spare set of Isky double valve springs with retainers that I'd sell cheap. With that said you can get them brand new from Isky I think they run around $100-150. As for valve guides you can still get them from Rockauto.

#1567059 Clutch and Flywheel Combo

Posted by Tom1200 on 27 May 2018 - 09:15 PM

I'll chime in; granted my car is A-series powered but this may be relative. With the romping stomping 99whp motor I used a standard disk with a 550kg pressure plate. The flywheel was lightened to 14lbs versus the standard 22lb unit, not as zippy as 7lb flywheel but a nice compromise between stock and race. As mine is only run on a race track the motor spends most of its time between 5000 and 8000 rpm. I try to mark the pressure plate before pulling it off the flywheel but I know that more than once it went on differently than it came off. In 26 years of racing the car I've never had an issue.......I will assume L series stuff is just as sturdy.

#1566652 Matchbox dizzy testing

Posted by Tom1200 on 25 May 2018 - 06:06 PM

Mike I knew that but as I'm an A-series guy I think the world works as mine does...........I'm looking into converting to crank triggered ignition as I have some of the parts.........but there is no reason why a distributor can't work properly, mine have when they weren't worn out.

#1566461 Matchbox dizzy testing

Posted by Tom1200 on 24 May 2018 - 08:26 PM

The only issue I've ever had / am having with matchbox distributors is slopply shaft causing high rpm flutter. The one in my car has started doing it, it's got the telltale wavy/bouncing tach needle. Granted my motor sees 8000 rpm + on a regular basis so that probably doesn't help.

Distributor guy what's the availability of parts to repair these? The one in my car was the last good one I had.

#1563937 1.4L race motor needs more ...

Posted by Tom1200 on 13 May 2018 - 01:47 PM

So back to A-series porting; on the cylinder head I did, as mentioned I blended the seats and worked on the bowl area. On the head I bought from Peter Zekert, the seats were blended, it had a little more material removed around the valve guide and there was some unshrouding of the valves. The unshrouding wasn't as much as one typically sees on a L series head. The only reason I didn't do any unshrouding on the head I did myself was simply down to the fact of my being unsure of how much to take off.

If you had a bone stock A12 -15 and simply cleaned up the ports you'd likely pick up around 5hp. Using the GX head gasket would increase the compression enough to pick up another 2hp. So you could pick up 7hp for $75.

Just as a comparison I'll share this: yesterday I ran the 1200 at a track and the difference between the A12 that's in there now and the A15 that went kablamo is more than 10mph at the end of the two longest straights. The A12 has 20 less horsepower, while that's a big difference the 20% reduction isn't huge (like 140 to say 80). Also because of the reduced power the car also won't pull 4th gear as well coming off some of the medium speed corners. Whereas the car used to get 9 mpg it now gets 15mpg.

So back to Tim's A14 powered car. A camshaft upgrade, better flowing valves and cleaning up the ports would fit his $700 or less budget and very like net a 7-10mph increase.

#1563437 1.4L race motor needs more ...

Posted by Tom1200 on 10 May 2018 - 08:29 PM

So as someone who has been racing an A-series powered car since 1989 I'll chime in.

First off 50whp is 10 more than stock so pretty good for an ITC car.

$700 is more than enough to get some more out of the car. You can as mentioned above probably get 15-20 more horsepower out of the current motor.

You can port the existing head (I did mine using a dremel), the valve seats protrude into the port 1-2mm, just getting them flush with the port wall makes a big difference. Additionally you can smooth the area around the valve guide, after that just gasket match the intake.

Delta cams does regrinds for something silly like $75-$100. Their 278 grind is 278 duration with .420 valve lift, you won't have to notch the pistons with this cam. Lifters are around $50 from Rockauto. You'll need valves springs, Isky has them. I have a used set I'd let go cheap.

Order a GX .8mm head gasket off eBay, $75 and it will up the compression a bit compared to the standard 1.2mm gasket.

You can use a Sentra radiator, I use one in my 1200 coupe.

3.90 rear gear is waaaay tall, also get rid of the rancid welded diff, it's slowing the car down. You end up with less than optimal alignment settings to get the thing to turn. Get a 4.11 diff.

I use Hoosier Vintage TD-R tires 20.5 x 6 x 13, they are only 11lbs per tire and lower the gearing quite a bit over the normal 185/60-13s. John Berget tire sometimes has them. They are bias ply but it's not an issue. As your grandson is a kart driver he's got plenty of experience on bias ply tires.

The website Datsuncherry.ch has downloadable Nissan tuning manuals, click on brochures and scroll towards the bottom.

If you want PM me and I'll give you my phone number and we can talk more. I'm in Vegas. I also have some used parts that might work for you.

Here are some numbers just as an FYI

My A12GX motor that was stock other than Keihin 39mm flat slide carbs (came off a D-Sports Racer) made 73whp at 7800 rpm and lasted 8 seasons and cost me $800 to build. The same motor with a more aggressive cam that made 80whp lasted all 6 races as it was revved to 8600 rpm.
My A15 with 11.86 comp, Keihin carbs, Delta 278 cam, ported head, 37/30mm SI tapered valves made 99whp at 8200rpm and lasted 5 seasons before the head gasket went (it got way hot) I spent $2,809 on it. I'm building a new one and it will have around 100whp. I learned a bunch building the first one so I'll only have around $1,200 in it.

A-series cars can made to go well. On my local track car, 3.4 mile 22 turns, I'm something like 8-9 seconds slower than the Spec Miata lap record (national level car) as bad as that sounds I'm still run with mid pack local Spec Miatas. Granted I'm driving the car like an animal. Check the post on here "I'm thinking the handling still needs work" and you see what I mean. I'm in the red 1200 coupe just ahead of the camera car. You can also check a coupe of videos on YouTube search Scuderia Pokey, there are two videos and these are with the 80hp motor. As he has Karting experience I'd expect your grandson to be able to get the most out of the car.


#1551766 H190 510 wagon axle end play; what parts wedge bearing in place?

Posted by Tom1200 on 15 March 2018 - 05:57 PM

So while checking the right side I found it had 15-20 thou, so add that to the left side and there may be as much as .75mm or 1/32", hell I make toe adjustments in 1/64th increments.

I still have a few shims in between the backing plate and housing, pulling those out would fix the left side but the right will definelty need to be shimmed. Worst case I can have my buddy machine up a few shims if need be.

#1551563 H190 510 wagon axle end play; what parts wedge bearing in place?

Posted by Tom1200 on 14 March 2018 - 08:37 PM

It's an alloy 4.38 LSD 23 spline roadster unit in a 510 wagon housing.

#1551131 H190 510 wagon axle end play; what parts wedge bearing in place?

Posted by Tom1200 on 12 March 2018 - 09:16 PM

If you've seen my post on "handling still needs work" I may have found the issue.

Using a dial indicator and pushing / pulling the axle in and out there appears to be 6-8 thousands of play. Combine both sides and that's a 64th of an inch.

When I got the axle it was clear something is missing; with the backing plate torqued down to spec I could move the axle shaft 1-2mm. In order to cure this I put shims in the axle housing behind the bearing. Note that even taking all the backing plate shims still left to much slop.

On the axle there is the bearing and collar. In the housing there is the axle seal and nothing else (other than my non stock shims).

So my question is what is supposed to wedge the bearing in place; Is the bearing supposed to bottom in the housing (metal outer circumference of bearing against housing) and then the backing plate wedge the other side of the bearing?

From the schematics it appears I have missing parts. Most notable is no grease seal thingy. The bearings are sealed bearings so I'm to worried about that but as the H190 is different than the H145 that was in the cars for years, I don't no if said grease seal takes up some of the end play. There also appears as if there is supposed to be a spacer behind the bearing.

Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated.

#1549779 I'm thinking the handling still needs work (video included)

Posted by Tom1200 on 05 March 2018 - 09:39 PM

The video (link below) is from a race two weeks ago; I'm in the red coupe just ahead of the camera car. You'll notice a ton of oil dry, in the group before us a Devin SS lined the course.

Ignore the wayward handling in turn one as I'm half in the marble and sawing at the wheel like a fiend. At the top of the hill everyone lined up like lemmings and braked early so I popped out and went for it, you can seem me get off the brakes and then back on them.

The driver of camera car (510) said he nearly went off when he out braked me.

The handling is nowhere near as unruly as the last video I posted but Mmm yeah it needs work. For my part as the loose nut behind the wheel it the car handles excellent (it actually does) but I know I'm way more comfortable with oversteer than most people.

Sadly my race ended on lap 3 as the motor went kablamo but for a car sporting 50-90 less horsepower than the cars I'm dicing with it does alright.


#1544369 Finally put the 1200 on a Dyno, survey says 98whp.

Posted by Tom1200 on 05 February 2018 - 10:19 PM

Many years ago while picking up some suspension bits from Neely he offered up a built A12 at a really good price. I snatched it up without thinking and only later learned that the 9000 rpm wonder needed going through every six hours. Fortunately I was able to sell t on for the same price I paid for it.

My last Dyno visit was 73whp; that was a otherwise stock GX A12 with ported head and the flatslide carbs. The motor was on 10th season, I rebuilt it with the roarty cam and that 8600 rpm wonder wore out very rapidly. Based on the top speed difference I'd guess that it was making 7-8hp more. Not worth the bother, it was a bear to load onto the tilt trailer, it did nothing below 4500 rpm and the mid close ratio box barely kept it in the powerband. It acted like a carbureted Formula Atlantic or my old 125cc GP bike.

Running vintage GT-lite (under 2 liter) and being in the small bore group the car only needs to put out 120-125 to win overall. By contrast if I get thrown in with the B-sedan the car needs to be putting out 150-160whp. The BMW 2002 are allowed 2085lbs with driver and those are putting down 170-180whp. The 510s 175-190 at 2085 to 2185 depending on motor. I'm way to cheap to spend 9-12K on a motor plus the cost rebuilds at the end of every season. Did I also mention I'm lazy?

I also have a morbid fascination with driving underdog cars.

#1543912 Finally put the 1200 on a Dyno, survey says 98whp.

Posted by Tom1200 on 03 February 2018 - 10:44 PM

We put the 1200 on a Dyno yesterday. The shop uses a Mustang Dyno.

My motor specs is as follows:

A15 1508cc
76.5 MM forged JE pistons
14lb flywheel
Ported GX cylinder head with SI (narrowed stem) 37mm intake 30mm exhaust & Isky duel springs
Delta 278 cam (280 advertised duration .420 lift)
4-1 header 1.75 ID collector
Keihin 39mm flat slide carbs.

The motor made 98HP at 8000 rpm and 78ft/lbs torque peak at 6700.

The torque curve is very flat making 76-78 from 4300 to 6700.

The powerband is also decent; making 95hp at 6500 and 98 from 6700 to 8200.

The car is running rich and I'll need to drop the main jets down probably two sizes which should net another 3-5hp.

The exhaust pipe at the header flange is jacked up; I'd sold the car back around 1998 when I was racing a motorcylce engined sports racer, the person who had the car then redid the exhaust and unfortunately it was not done well. Then header flange has a 1.75" ID but the ID at the exhaust flange is 1.5" and if that's not bad enough there is a 3-4" run off 1.5" pipe stuffed inside the 2" exhaust pipe. When I got the car back a few years later I had no reason to examine the exhaust, the only reason I discovered it now is that I was drilling the exhaust to fit an O2 sensor for an air fuel gauge (yes kiddies I was reading the plugs to check the jetting).

So there's probably an easy 10hp to be had between the jetting and "removing" the outlet restrictor. Long term the goal was to get the car around 120whp so a few small fixes will get it halfway there.

I wasn't expecting more than about 105 so the motor was pretty much in the ballpark. All in all it's pretty good for the level of tune. Also back in the day a top level A12 national motor put out around 100hp to the wheels so the performance is probably what it would have been back in the 70s

The bonus side is it feeds my driver ego; given I'm mixing it up with cars that while being as much as 300lbs heavier also have 50-85 more horsepower advantage. No wonder I'm having to drove the living snot out of the poor little car.

A friend also brought his 2.0 914 which made 101.6 whp, which makes his driving all the more incredible given his car is 2100lbs and he's going 3/4 of a second a lap faster than I am.