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#1551766 H190 510 wagon axle end play; what parts wedge bearing in place?

Posted by Tom1200 on 15 March 2018 - 05:57 PM

So while checking the right side I found it had 15-20 thou, so add that to the left side and there may be as much as .75mm or 1/32", hell I make toe adjustments in 1/64th increments.

I still have a few shims in between the backing plate and housing, pulling those out would fix the left side but the right will definelty need to be shimmed. Worst case I can have my buddy machine up a few shims if need be.

#1551563 H190 510 wagon axle end play; what parts wedge bearing in place?

Posted by Tom1200 on 14 March 2018 - 08:37 PM

It's an alloy 4.38 LSD 23 spline roadster unit in a 510 wagon housing.

#1551131 H190 510 wagon axle end play; what parts wedge bearing in place?

Posted by Tom1200 on 12 March 2018 - 09:16 PM

If you've seen my post on "handling still needs work" I may have found the issue.

Using a dial indicator and pushing / pulling the axle in and out there appears to be 6-8 thousands of play. Combine both sides and that's a 64th of an inch.

When I got the axle it was clear something is missing; with the backing plate torqued down to spec I could move the axle shaft 1-2mm. In order to cure this I put shims in the axle housing behind the bearing. Note that even taking all the backing plate shims still left to much slop.

On the axle there is the bearing and collar. In the housing there is the axle seal and nothing else (other than my non stock shims).

So my question is what is supposed to wedge the bearing in place; Is the bearing supposed to bottom in the housing (metal outer circumference of bearing against housing) and then the backing plate wedge the other side of the bearing?

From the schematics it appears I have missing parts. Most notable is no grease seal thingy. The bearings are sealed bearings so I'm to worried about that but as the H190 is different than the H145 that was in the cars for years, I don't no if said grease seal takes up some of the end play. There also appears as if there is supposed to be a spacer behind the bearing.

Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated.

#1549779 I'm thinking the handling still needs work (video included)

Posted by Tom1200 on 05 March 2018 - 09:39 PM

The video (link below) is from a race two weeks ago; I'm in the red coupe just ahead of the camera car. You'll notice a ton of oil dry, in the group before us a Devin SS lined the course.

Ignore the wayward handling in turn one as I'm half in the marble and sawing at the wheel like a fiend. At the top of the hill everyone lined up like lemmings and braked early so I popped out and went for it, you can seem me get off the brakes and then back on them.

The driver of camera car (510) said he nearly went off when he out braked me.

The handling is nowhere near as unruly as the last video I posted but Mmm yeah it needs work. For my part as the loose nut behind the wheel it the car handles excellent (it actually does) but I know I'm way more comfortable with oversteer than most people.

Sadly my race ended on lap 3 as the motor went kablamo but for a car sporting 50-90 less horsepower than the cars I'm dicing with it does alright.


#1544369 Finally put the 1200 on a Dyno, survey says 98whp.

Posted by Tom1200 on 05 February 2018 - 10:19 PM

Many years ago while picking up some suspension bits from Neely he offered up a built A12 at a really good price. I snatched it up without thinking and only later learned that the 9000 rpm wonder needed going through every six hours. Fortunately I was able to sell t on for the same price I paid for it.

My last Dyno visit was 73whp; that was a otherwise stock GX A12 with ported head and the flatslide carbs. The motor was on 10th season, I rebuilt it with the roarty cam and that 8600 rpm wonder wore out very rapidly. Based on the top speed difference I'd guess that it was making 7-8hp more. Not worth the bother, it was a bear to load onto the tilt trailer, it did nothing below 4500 rpm and the mid close ratio box barely kept it in the powerband. It acted like a carbureted Formula Atlantic or my old 125cc GP bike.

Running vintage GT-lite (under 2 liter) and being in the small bore group the car only needs to put out 120-125 to win overall. By contrast if I get thrown in with the B-sedan the car needs to be putting out 150-160whp. The BMW 2002 are allowed 2085lbs with driver and those are putting down 170-180whp. The 510s 175-190 at 2085 to 2185 depending on motor. I'm way to cheap to spend 9-12K on a motor plus the cost rebuilds at the end of every season. Did I also mention I'm lazy?

I also have a morbid fascination with driving underdog cars.

#1543912 Finally put the 1200 on a Dyno, survey says 98whp.

Posted by Tom1200 on 03 February 2018 - 10:44 PM

We put the 1200 on a Dyno yesterday. The shop uses a Mustang Dyno.

My motor specs is as follows:

A15 1508cc
76.5 MM forged JE pistons
14lb flywheel
Ported GX cylinder head with SI (narrowed stem) 37mm intake 30mm exhaust & Isky duel springs
Delta 278 cam (280 advertised duration .420 lift)
4-1 header 1.75 ID collector
Keihin 39mm flat slide carbs.

The motor made 98HP at 8000 rpm and 78ft/lbs torque peak at 6700.

The torque curve is very flat making 76-78 from 4300 to 6700.

The powerband is also decent; making 95hp at 6500 and 98 from 6700 to 8200.

The car is running rich and I'll need to drop the main jets down probably two sizes which should net another 3-5hp.

The exhaust pipe at the header flange is jacked up; I'd sold the car back around 1998 when I was racing a motorcylce engined sports racer, the person who had the car then redid the exhaust and unfortunately it was not done well. Then header flange has a 1.75" ID but the ID at the exhaust flange is 1.5" and if that's not bad enough there is a 3-4" run off 1.5" pipe stuffed inside the 2" exhaust pipe. When I got the car back a few years later I had no reason to examine the exhaust, the only reason I discovered it now is that I was drilling the exhaust to fit an O2 sensor for an air fuel gauge (yes kiddies I was reading the plugs to check the jetting).

So there's probably an easy 10hp to be had between the jetting and "removing" the outlet restrictor. Long term the goal was to get the car around 120whp so a few small fixes will get it halfway there.

I wasn't expecting more than about 105 so the motor was pretty much in the ballpark. All in all it's pretty good for the level of tune. Also back in the day a top level A12 national motor put out around 100hp to the wheels so the performance is probably what it would have been back in the 70s

The bonus side is it feeds my driver ego; given I'm mixing it up with cars that while being as much as 300lbs heavier also have 50-85 more horsepower advantage. No wonder I'm having to drove the living snot out of the poor little car.

A friend also brought his 2.0 914 which made 101.6 whp, which makes his driving all the more incredible given his car is 2100lbs and he's going 3/4 of a second a lap faster than I am.

#1535391 A Series engine length?

Posted by Tom1200 on 18 December 2017 - 10:18 PM

I measure my spare A12 (it's on a stand) and have 19 3/4" this is from the bell flange mounting surface to water pump centering boss (centers the fan) going to an electric water pump and would cut the the overall length down to 18 1/4" by virtue of removing the pump.

Also check on Nissan E15 from the Pulsar and early Sentra; I believe these are slightly shorter.

Curious as to what kind of car; I assume it's originally powered by MAE, FVA or Climax engine given the dimension and price. Lotus Twin Cams and BDAs are a few inches longer than that if I remember correctly.

Mike the A-series engines are a bonus for formula cars and sports racers, as the were widely used there are adapters for Hewland gearboxes as well as Webster/VW. It's the front engine rear drive stuff that's difficult. Ford Type 9s have been done but most,of,them were done as one offs by various competitors around the globe, probably a couple of dozen guys have done it but nothing commercially available or at least at a reasonable price. By contrast the Hewland adapters are $400-$600 depending on which one you buy.

#1528792 Where to buy sporty stuff

Posted by Tom1200 on 12 November 2017 - 05:13 PM

When I say lesser sedans I'd be referring to anything that isn't the AWD turbo missile black whole of cash things. Most notable being the unbiqitous VW Golf type cars. The key is that these type of cars of a known set up; you buy X rate spring and dampers and call it a day. My Volvo rally car was this way as well.

Our events were held on dry lake beds so suspension travel wasn't an issue but events held in rolling fields or gravel pits would quickly eat up the stock 6" inches these old cars have so if your serious, for,sure you'll be spending serious coin on suspension.

One of the guys on SpecialStage might know the "hot ticket" place to start would be the historic rally section; there are guys who've been rallying since the 70s on there.


#1527742 63a dogleg rebuilt - Gets stuck in 4th gear?

Posted by Tom1200 on 07 November 2017 - 08:35 PM

I don't remember where I saw it but I remember seeing a couple of Datsun boxes that had the shift rails machined with a small groove so they could fit a circlip to prevent the shifter from over traveling. As the syncros get worn it's not uncommon for the shift rail to over travel and rather than the bits falling out they wedge the collar on the hub. My Ultra-close 4 speed did this and it took a bit of doing to get them apart...........I feel your pain.

#1527741 Where to buy sporty stuff

Posted by Tom1200 on 07 November 2017 - 08:20 PM

OK continued........the wife rang the dinner bell.

The H190 axle is wider than the stock B210 axle, something like 3 inches so you'll likely need some FWD rims to compensate. A trick, if you can call it that, for the front lower control arms is to simply weld on bits of sheet metal to box them and or brace them. I use the ubiquitous 280ZX coil over set up because I got the entire suspension and steering cheap. We widened the 280ZX lower control arms to match the width of the H190 rear axle. The 280ZX stuff is heavy compared to the 1200/ B210 stuff, for Rally-X because you are likely going to want to keep the ride height and suspension travel I'd keep the stock struts. An alternative to the Koni dampers is to use VW Rabbit / Golf Bilsteins (check Datsun1200.com for more detail)Urethane bushing are also widely available, you may have to do some measuring to get all the bits you need.

As for the brakes; for rally-x you're using the brakes to turn the car more than that heavy threshold braking one does while road racing so I wouldn't kill myself trying to get monster brakes on the thing. Sadly I can't remember which calipers bolt on but I think the B310 or Sentra calipers will bolt on. They use larger pads and should more than do the trick. I prefer a lot of rear brake especially on a rally car. This is pretty easily achieved with larger wheel cylinders I think they vary between 11/16ths to 13/16ths. A side note here; if you fit DCOE carbs the master cylinder is the the way and you'll need to fit something like a Wilwood or Tilton pedal set. Those allow you to use a balance bar and forego playing with rear wheel cylinders. If you can find Ferodo pads for the stock front calipers go with Porterfield brakes shoes for the back. For B210 stock rear brakes you'll need to send Porterfield a set of shoes so they can fit the completion compound brake material.

So if I was going to run a B210 as 2WD modified class I'd do the following; fit a reground cam, SI Valves, port whatever head was on the car, fit a Weber 32/36 DGV carb, header, 2" exhaust, stiffer front springs (likely Z car) Bilstien or Koni dampers, some aggressive brake pads and shoes and some used rally tires or whatever the must have tire is (I think it's currently Firestone snow tire). If I found a 4.11 or 4.38 ring and pinion I'd fit that as well.

#1527552 What does it weigh?

Posted by Tom1200 on 06 November 2017 - 09:43 PM

A couple notes on V8s:

On the LS the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel are 40lbs give or take a few, so from 371 that takes you up to 411, add the accessory drive and your at 436, headers and intake are going to add another 20-30lbs voila you're at 456. I'm sure there are also some miscellaneous bits as well that add a few pounds. You could probably find a lighter flywheel and other bits to bring the weight down so possibly as light as 435-440lbs. The other factor people forget about the transmission; an LS trans is 125lbs. So the combination is very near 600lbs.

Ford 5.0 motors are very compact and with aluminum heads, manifold and other bitsI've seen actual weights at 424lbs. The T5 is around 75-80lbs. A lot of British car guys use the combo because even at 500lbs it's still 50-80lbs lighter than the stock 4 cylinder motor.

For comparison I weighed my A12 with all the accessories clutch and even oil. The headers and flat slide carbs took a bunch of weight off the motor so it came in at 183lbs. The 56 series 4 speed is 38lbs, so all up is 221lbs The A15 is 195lbs combined with the 60 series box the total package is 253lbs. This combo is making around 105-110hp and will finally out drag a stock Miata. Now as sad as that sounds remember that a stock Miata will out drag a stock 240Z.

Now for a street car the weight doesn't matter; were talking 250-300lb difference between a race prepped A-series to a V8. The difference from an L16-L20 & 5 speed combo is going to be as little as 125 and as much as 200lbs.

My fabricator pal has changed my thought process; a KA24 as the pictures above demonstrate is all of 50lbs lighter than a 5.0 and 100-150lbs of an LS motor & tranny install. This is true of most 4 cylinder motors. Add in turbos and there is no weight savings.

A standard KA is going to make around 130whp versus 250-400 for the stock V8s. Now I don't particularly like the exhaust note of American V8s but from a power standpoint they make sense.

Datsuns are light so they don't need much to make them scoot. Also once you get them up to 175whp they start to go well (read out drag a modern Camry) At 200whp you could manage some 1/4 mile times in the 13s. Datsuns are also about handling but alas they have a really narrow track (most 70s cars do) and so that driver in that shiny new 3800lb Mustang or Camaro will leave you behind in the twisty bits if they're the least bit confident. I'm driving the wheels of the 1200 but turn the same exact lap times in students 911s & Z06 Vettes while driving the whole course in 3rd gear.

So my usual short story long point is put in whatever motor makes you happy and don't worry about the weight. If the weight bothers you than stop eating Bonbons & buckets of ice cream, load on brain before you go to the drag strip and have your girlfriend drive (let's face it she looks better behind the wheel anyway)

Now with that said keep the weights coming as it makes for some interesting reading

#1522713 7th Annual Multi-State Datsun Classic -

Posted by Tom1200 on 09 October 2017 - 09:09 PM

Kelmo your car looked great; I'm especially envious, that as I mentioned at the BRE open house, you were able get fenders on the car without the signature 1200 dimple above the wheel arch. I only wish my car looked so good but I probably wouldn't flog mine as hard if it did.

#1518761 BRE Open House Oct. 6, 2017

Posted by Tom1200 on 21 September 2017 - 09:15 PM


I will try and bring my 1200 as well, I have a training that runs till noon but it's about a mile from BRE, mine will be on a trailer as well.......seeing as it hasn't been road registered since 1991.


#1515701 A15 Build

Posted by Tom1200 on 07 September 2017 - 09:31 PM

I ordered my pistons from JE. I'll dig through my receipts and see if I have the order number, which you could probably use to at least get a quote. I ordered the pistons without the valve notches, more radical cams need the tops of the piston notched but I try to stick with less radical cams.

Nissan Motorsports doesn't have much for A-series motors these days.

Confirm which A12 is in your car; if it's an A12A those have a 75mm bore, I think one of the Honda motors uses pistons with a 75mm bore and 30mm pin height. That would save a few bucks on machining. If you can find the older A15 piston with the shallow center dish, that piston dish is something like 6cc, coupled 77mm stroke and the .8mm thick GX head gasket gives a compression ratio of around 9.8 to 10-1. You likely don't want more than that as you won't be able to use pump gas. Use one of the online compression ratio calculators.

Remember the power is in the cylinder head and also don't forget the power is in the head, did mention the power is in the head.

#1510542 Steering box brace - any good?

Posted by Tom1200 on 16 August 2017 - 06:29 PM

A friend gifted us a set of Spec Miata suspension for my son's street car; the springs are something like 750-800 front and 450 rear. It doesn't ride nearly as bad as I thought it would.

Off on a bit of a tangent; modern cars are much wider track, which makes a huge difference. My 1200 is 3 inches wider than stock and it's still 3 inches narrower than our 91 Miata. New cars also tend to have longer control arms which also helps.

Naturally their is a price for the increase rigidity, new car are pig heavy. A V6 Camry is heavier than a 65 Ford Galaxy.