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Member Since 05 Nov 2013
Offline Last Active Jun 20 2018 04:55 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Best battery for a B210???

20 June 2018 - 04:55 PM

In my 1200 I'm using a group 51 Honda Civic battery, a Miata battery would work as well. My motor has 11.89 compression and the battery has no problem firing up the motor. Also note the flat slide carbs on my car have no choke so a I have to crank the motor more than you would on a street car.

As for brand I have an Autozone battery because here in the desert batteries don't last more than 3-4 years. I always preferred Interstate and had good luck with them, I was managing to get 5 years out of them. I was also getting them at a discount.

In Topic: Suzuki GSX-R carbs on A-series???

17 June 2018 - 07:00 PM

This will break your heart, I got mine with the manifold for $250!

If you shop around carefully you can find them for the same price you'd pay for Mikunis. You have to look around on various bike sites. The smaller sizes, 39mm, can be found for a lot less, I've seen them as low as $500 but you're more likely to pay $750 to $1,200. Like anything you need to shop around. Nothing should make you shy away from a used set, they are simply but absolute works of art.

The FCR carbs flow more than DCOE style carbs mainly due to the lack of a throttle shaft (8-10mm restriction). Even if you spend $600 more they make enough power to justify buying them. My otherwise standard A12GX motor with the only change being the Keihin carbs made 73whp. That is 18hp more than the SSS (DCOE carbs) motor done in New Zealand and the twin carb standard GX motor. The D-Sports Racer guy I got the carbs from said the made an instant 12hp increase on there race A13.

Also a big plus for left hand drive cars is you don't have to move the brake master like you do if you wish to install a pair of DCOE style carbs.

They only knock I will give them is you need to run pod filters on the street or fab up a custom air box. The motor will make more power with a proper air box.

In Topic: Suzuki GSX-R carbs on A-series???

16 June 2018 - 06:07 PM

I've run 39mm Keihin flat slides exactly like the ones pictured above. They are awesome, the only thing with bike carbs is you need very low fuel pressure (no more than 2psi).

I had been running an A15 in my car but the A12 in my car now. It's just a matter of jetting. Camshafts can have a unexpected jetting change. If the cam has a lot of overlap you'll end up going leaner on the pilot jet regardless of engine displacement.

If you do get bike carbs get the airbox as well. You will need to come up with a custom manifold, go to Datsun1200.com for that as there are several different set ups that people have done. I wa lucky in that the custom manifold came with the carbs.

A final word on the Keihin FCR flat slide carbs; if someone tells you that your going to have flat spots or they won't work well at low RPMs, they don't know what they are taking about. My Beta dual sport bike uses the same carb and both it and the 1200 work flawlessly.

In Topic: 1.4L race motor needs more ...

07 June 2018 - 09:15 PM

My car would be right on 1525lbs without the cage. Over the years we've added to the cage and it's between 125-130lbs. My car is a bit of a porker, it's 1787 with me in it (I'm 140lbs). It's a lot of little things that add up. The A15 is 12lbs more than the A12, the 60 series or 63 series transmission will add 16lbs, the upgraded rear end is an extra 15lbs, the ZX struts and brakes are boat anchors that add at least 20lbs. My car is also still all steel panels and that's an extra 16lbs. I'll be taking another 50-60lbs out of the car by going to a LiPo battery redoing the exhaust as well as milling out some non critical items.

Using an ITC spec cage kit would likely add 100lbs to a 210 so I'd plan on around 1750 to 1800lbs but if your not being held to SCCA rules you could likely get it closer to the low 1700s.

While I whine about the 510s and BMW 2002s blowing past me down the straights, I really enjoy the nimbleness of an A-series powered car. Even if I built an all out motor I'd still be 5-8% down on power. I'm willing to give that up beciase you can absolutely drive the wheels off the A-series powered cars, if you ever seen me drive mine or the videos I sometimes post you know what I mean. The cars remind me of my my days club racing a 125GP bike, you had to be on it every inch of every lap and that's what makes them fun. I also have a Formula 500 I use as an autocross car that I could take to vintage races, while its fast it lacks the hooligan factor that I enjoy in small bore coupes.

In Topic: 1.4L race motor needs more ...

04 June 2018 - 08:45 PM

The largest bore you can get with an A-series motor is 79mm and consequently the largest valves you can fit are 40mm intake and 34mm exhaust. The larger bore of the L series allows you to stuff bigger valves in it. There was a fellow who managed 200hp at the flywheel with an A-series engine but you'd be rebuilding the engine after every race to keep it from coming apart.

For vintage B Sedan there are some possible advantages a 1300cc A series car is allowed to weigh 1300lbs. The 500-600lbs won't make up for the 50 horsepower deficit but on low to medium speed tracks. I can tell you from experience (following Lotus 7s) that a 1300lb car is good for 3-5mph in every corner versus my 1640lb car, so it would be quite possible to build a big gap to 1900-2100lb 510s in the twisty bits that they wouldn't be able to claw back on the straights.

210s like Tim has are a bit porky but they have more in them than a 1200 so there is quite a bit of weight that can be pulled out of a 210. It's been a long time but I think you can get them down to 1700lbs.