Tom1200

Yes, please define block test? I've been racing an A-series powered car for 35 years; I've seriously overheated a couple of them and never have I had a bad block. Unless it's cracked (something I've never seen) I can't imagine one being bad. So again please provide more information. Also what are you don't have to have an A14.............and A15 or even A12A will bolt right into your car.

A-series motors did feature fuel injection but not in the USA. The set up is hard to come by. There is extensive information on turbo builds on Datsun1200.com. I've been racing an A-series powered car for 35 years. Realistically you can get a streetable NA motor to about 100hp at the wheels. A turbo motor about 130. Anything above that and they will wear out quickly. Race motors make 150-175hp but need rebuilding after 6-8hrs of run time. As much I love the A-series motor you'd be far better served to simply install something like a L20, Z24 or KA24 out of a pick up truck. Those are easy motor swaps. If you must have an A-series do the following: Bore the motor to 78.5mm which will take an A15 out to 1600cc, add a mild cam, install L16 valves I the head and clean up the ports. This will get you to around 90-95hp at the wheels. If you add side-draft carbs that will be good for another 10-15hp.

Kelmo, That's Stan's coupe; it's utterly immaculate.

Raced it...................I count that as done to.

If you can find the tube on Ebay I have an extra A15 dipstick.

That's hilarious; we were actually discussing Mr 7th at the track.

Well I managed to get the 1200 out to a vintage race weekend. I've done several track days this year but this was the first actual race I did this year as the Spring events conflicted with my schedule. I was 10th overall (23 cars) and 2nd in class (4 cars). A couple of notes; you will see a great pass at the 2:20 to 2:40 mark....and then you'll see me give the place right back because, I'm an idiot, there was a standing yellow. I was so fully committed there was no way to back out of the pass. The last lap (minute 7) has several full send moments. You'll also see me getting talked to when I come back to the pits...............I had to go see the Steward for the first time ever in 36 years of racing. Once I told him I was an idiot and he sent me on my way. PS: do not try this at home as I drive like a rabid Jack Russell on a bucket of meth.

The CA trans will not fit the A-series block. The aforementioned 60 series 5 speed is what you meed; they run between $500 - $1000

Those pictures remind me of why I run mildish cams..........mmm I've floated the valves once or twice.

Not on purpose but I've revved the motors to 9100 a few times....on stock rods and rod bolts.

The machine shops I used did indeed want the main caps on the block. As for the valves they were either SI (they have narrowed stems that flow more) or out of my bag of valves that I collected over the years. Note it's literally a ziplock bag of old Nissan valves. I'm sure most real engine builders would shriek in horror about the manner in which I slap motors together. The only operation that gets any extra attention is the valve job. I have my buddy who builds motorcyle racing games engines do that. I know I'm giving up that last bit of horsepower but for my purposes it doesn't matter.

Yes I'm pretty sure my measurements are relative. I'm also using a cheap caliper so that probably makes the measurements even more suspect. I also get the bearings from Rockauto I think Federal Mogul Thankfully the A-series motors are Tom proof........that or God really does look after fools and little children

Mike, I probably shouldn't admit this but I've never even plasti- gauged a single set of crank bearings in the A-series. I use a digital caliper to measure the journals and cross check it the manual.......then call it a day. These things are stout and pretty "Tom" proof.

So over the last 38 years we've rebuilt / built 5 engines (4 of them for racing) and I've never done anything more then install fresh bearings in the lower end. The only failures I've had were heat related head gasket failures. My so called race motors are mildy tuned and I only rev them to 8200 rpm it's still far more than a street motor will be stressed.