guyster

Fun Fact. This is the only place I see the term OICS, in relation to pics. Urban Dictionary has "oics" as short for "Oh, I see." Has the history of the term oics on Ratsun ever been defined?

Hello Administrators. Met this guy at a Cars & Coffee over the weekend and he's trying to sign up on this site, but is having issues. Can you help me help him? Here is his note: Need Ratsun sign-up help from an administrator! I cannot post. I can find but not access, add to or edit my Profile. I cannot find any admin or mod contact info to report my problems anywhere including the Moderating Team page. One of the mods, J2eDeYe only lives 20 miles from me and I can’t contact him. My profile continues to simply say Validating after my username. I have clicked on Revalidation on the main page several times which sends me an email telling me to go to a web address to revalidate, which does not work, (Sorry you can’t go there), then another address if the first one doesn’t work, which doesn’t work (Sorry, you can’t go there). Final email instruction is to go to the Moderating Team page and contact an administrator, but there are no functioning contacts anywhere on that page. I’ve sent several emails to the community administrator (ratsunguy@ratsun.net) with no response. I have an 85 Z24 720 4x4 with engine problems that is clogging my shop that I need to get running and out of the way. My profile doesn’t include a Datsun or Nissan but I have the 85 720 now and have had two 240Z’s and a 510 in the past, and have a J15 engine and transmission, and 240 parts in my shop. --Jim Lux, Ratsun username OlDatZMan

Hey Mike, I'm having a bit of trouble sourcing a fuel guide valve and charcoal canister for an L20B. Any sources you would recommend I try?

Thanks Datphu. I bought the ones from Experimental Engineering (above), but forgot all about checking DP Racing!

I am having a difficult time locating idler arm bushings for a '71 510. Ermish sells a set for $85, but I'm just looking for a regular set (usually $15). Any resources you suggest I might try. Have tried all the usual suspects (RockAuto, regular auto part stores, Ebay, Dprojects), but maybe I've missed one or two. Thanks!

Thank you!! I can't see the picture, but I can look up location of evap valve on the L20B (which I'm swapping in). I'm BAFFLED by the fact that I can't see how to route the line. I mean, it came off the damn car!

I removed two fuel lines from my 1971 510, 2-door. One goes from the bottom of the fuel tank to the engine bay, and feeds the fuel pump. Another goes from the detached upper reservoir canister "TO CRANK CASE." What does that mean? I've routed the rear brake line along the transmission tunnel and don't see anywhere to route this mystery fuel line. Any reference pics would be appreciated. Here's the manual drawing: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/Portals/9/Figures/NorthAmerica/normal/510_016A_1_vga.png If only I had another Dime to use as reference ... :rofl:

Front fenders without dents is practically unicorn status.

I'm trying this product (links to Home Depot). Not sure if the thickness will be right, but will let you know.

When I removed my fenders on both my 510 and 120Y, I found two different materials. The 510 had a felt strip that adhered to the body to prevent the fender from rubbing. The 120Y, which had been rebuilt, had more of a spray foam/rubbery material. What do y'all use when replacing that material?

ANSWERED MY QUESTION WITHIN MINUTES OF POSTING THIS. Thanks for looking, Guy ========================================================================== I keep finding 11/16 rebuild kits during my searches, but my part clearly says 3/4. The car is a 1975 120Y, which uses the B210 front disc brakes, with booster. Follow up question: Can I upgrade to a larger MC? And if so, how do I determine what part would work? (For example, the 120Y is RHD, so I'd need to source overseas as the bleed nipples would be on the wrong side and push against the firewall).

This weekend I put in 15W motorcycle fork oil. It used about 210cc of oil, per strut, which was odd because the Datsun 1200 tech wiki stated that I'd need 280cc. Anyway, it is very firm to compress and extend, so I guess I'm OK. Won't know for a while. I decided to use 15W instead of 10W because I've also lowered the spring perch by 1 1/8". Combined with my King Springs, which drops about 1 1/8". Thought maybe a stronger damping might help things. I didn't section the strut tube, so I'm hoping it's not going to bottom out.

Rebuilding my struts is my weekend project, so I'm happy to see this thread. What's with the welded cartridge? Is that a solution for shortening the strut when lowering the car? I would think you'd need to section the tube shaft also for that to work. I read on the Datsun 1200 forum that oil measurement needed to be exact. Mike, you found your "by eyeball" method to be acceptable?

Datsun History from the 1930's to 1970's.

Thanks for posting this. It's very close to where I live, but the day is a problem. I'll keep it in mind and spread the word.