SHIFT

The old carb could have been running rich and left the soot as well. If the engine is running lean, what direction do you turn the mix screw?

OK. I have to take this one step at a time... It's time for me to get a timing light. Thank you for letting me know that there are 3 screws.

I just ordered a 90

The diagram and instructions that came with the weber carb are not clear to me. The instructions refer to an idle screw, idle mixture screw, and a fast idle screw but the diagram does not label anything as the "idle screw". Are there 3 adjustment screws or just 2? The engine is "popping" from out of the carb when I gun it. I pulled one plug and it's black with soot- manual indicates that fuel mixture needs adjustment. My screw drivers are either too long or too short to access some of the screws so I can't count the turns properly... I'm really frustrated. any tips?

I'm interested in a 1977 620 that needs some front end work. The owner says it needs new tie rod bushings and ball joints. He says there is a lot of play in the steering. He has owned it for 20 years and has never done any front end work on it. Mechanically everything else on the truck is sound- recent brakes, low mileage rebuilt motor, springs, shocks, catalytic converter. He has all the receipts. He says it's drivable, but I would prefer to have it fixed before I attempt to drive it home. What would a shop charge to replace bushings and ball joints? (on average) Is it reasonable to assume that the problem is properly diagnosed? What more could potentially be needed in the front end that could add to the repair expense?

The carb came fitted with a linkage piece that was shaped like a squarish upside-down "U" - which according to the instructions is for a rod operated throttle. I replaced it with a piece that is triangular with several holes in it. I had to use the original bracket that was already bolted to the manifold because the one that was included with the kit was completely wrong- the bolt holes on the new bracket were way off. Let me know if you need a better pic and I'll take one. The instruction sheet that came with the kit was pretty lousy. The adapter plates that I got were configured completely different than what was described in the instructions. A couple of pictures of the linkage setups would have been nice... but I suppose most people who buy these kits are generally more experienced under the hood than I am.

First of all thanks to everyone who posted back. People on this forum have been a great help whenever I post questions so really, thanks a lot! So here's my report. The throttle shaft nut was pretty tight so I loosened it up then locked it in place with the bendable locking tab that is there- Done! As suggested I rigged a home-made tester from an extra dash light that I had. I tested the wire that I originally hooked up to the choke. It was completely dead- so I tested the wire connected to the now defunct anti-dieseling solenoid- it was a winner so I used that wire. Done! I adjusted the settings again and got it to idle pretty good. I took it for a short drive and it seemed to run just fine. I'll do a cold start on it tomorrow morning to see how it behaves, but as of tonight it's mission accomplished!

Thanks. I will check the choke wire tomorrow in the daylight- and yes I probably F'd up the settings- but I will fix it!;) Just to let you know, I live pretty far up in the mountains and this truck is my only form of transportation right now. Until I get it running I have to hitchhike into town, so it's not so easy for me to get a test light. I actually ordered a decent test light on ebay but it hasn't been delivered yet. I'll have to rig something to test the wire for now.

Thanks Jason. I will check all these things tomorrow in the daylight. I did tighten the nut on the throttle shaft with a wrench when I put the proper linkage piece on the carb, so that may be it. I turned the idle screw and the idle mixture screw. I turned them back to where they were originally... I think.

I'm a total noob at this stuff so please be kind. The instructions that were included in the kit are not clear to me or specific enough. This truck is my only transportation so any help will be greatly appreciated. I installed the carb best I could but it is idling high and the idle adjustment screws don't seem to do anything at all. The instructions say to connect the "idle solenoid" to the electric choke but I don't know what the idle solenoid is. The only solenoid that I disconnected is what the manual calls an anti-dieseling solenoid valve. Is this the idle solenoid? If so, how does it connect to the new carb? I don't know if I hooked up the correct wire to the electric choke- the choke on the old carb was busted and rigged with a manual choke cable. I found a red wire that was taped up- (it was the only wire in the vicinity and it looked like the best candidate). How do I test this wire to see if it is the correct one? How do I know if the choke is working properly? I did get a Clymer shop manual, but I still can't figure some of this stuff out so I need some help. :blink:

Hey z-train, I sent you a private message. I'm in Northern Cali- are you willing to ship? Drop me an email and let me know: Paul(at)shiftpages(dot)com

For some reason I am unable to answer any posts on my previous thread for 620 parts so I am posting the list again. I dropped a few items thanks to some members who pointed me in the right direction for new parts. These are all of the parts I will eventually need to fix up my 1973 620 pickup. I will update the list as I get stuff. Let me know if you have anything on the list. Please send a PM with contact info. I'm in Northern CA zip 95960- If not local be willing to ship. hood (pending) - A few dings is ok but it has to be straight- I'm more concerned about bends, kinks, creases or cracks in the metal, rust holes or broken welds in the structural part. tailgate - looking for a clean one (pending) good set of heater controls with cables (pending) intake coolant outlet fitting (can I get this at autozone?) ignition switch (or better yet an entire lock set with matching key) clips, screws and hardware for the ignition switch housing head light switch knob or the entire switch a glove box door with an intact hinge or just the hinge part an ash tray with track & all mounting hardware (pending) stock tire jack (pending) stock side view mirrors door switches for interior lights stock center console (does the bench seat have to be the notched type to install a center console?) lock stems and trim

That's awesome! Perfect!

PM sent.

I'm posting a list of all the parts I will eventually need to fix up my 1973 620 pickup. I will update the list as I get stuff. Let me know if you have anything on the list. I'm in Northern CA zip 95960. hood (pending) - A few dings is ok but it has to be straight- I'm more concerned about bends, kinks, creases or cracks in the metal, rust holes or broken welds in the structural part. tailgate - looking for a clean one (pending) good set of heater controls with cables intake coolant outlet fitting (can I get this at autozone?) ignition switch (or better yet an entire lock set with matching key) clips, screws and hardware for the ignition switch housing head light switch knob or the entire switch battery hold down intact front turn signal lenses 12v flashers for the blinkers and hazard lights a glove box door with an intact hinge or just the hinge part an ash tray with track & all mounting hardware stock tire jack (pending) stock side view and rear view mirrors an intact windshield intact inner and outer window sweeps door switches for interior lights stock center console (does the bench seat have to be the notched type to install a center console?) lock stems and trim intact head liner (preferably white) an intact dash pad (I might get a cap)