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Slowpoke

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  • Location
    Detroit
  • Cars
    76 280z l28et swap, 87 toyota corola

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  1. Not needed but interesting: https://zcardepot.com/fuel-injection-retrofit-kit-fast-efi-280z-280zx.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpefD67Od1wIVgrXACh2lOwRBEAQYASABEgLPa_D_BwE
  2. Slowpoke

    New to Ratsun

    Start at ignition. Check plugs, wires, dizzy cap, rotor, coil, ignitor, and all associated plugs. Check all vacuum lines, IC piping, intake boot, etc. Continue checking systems in this manner. Go from easiest to the more difficult systems and components. This method may take a long time but it usually turns up something, and is faster than guess and fiddle. Good luck homie
  3. Slowpoke

    New to Ratsun

    Re-check your work with the intercooler piping, boost gauge and controller. Re-check all of your work. Specs for the coil are in the FSM. Welcome to the Turbo datsun rollercoster ride!
  4. Slowpoke

    New to Ratsun

    That sucks. Check compression, and check for fluid cross contamination. The heads on these engines like to warp if overheated. If you got a free pass, check out the entire cooling system to be safe.
  5. Get a legit wide band, preferably Innovate or AEM. Then research Megaquirt.
  6. From the 81 turbo supplement. I don't have the 83 manuals or know if the 81 AFM id different from the 83. 81 timing is 20 +or- 3deg. Fuel pressure should be 30psi at idle, 37 pedal fully depressed. You may need to find these numbers in the 83 manual to verify.
  7. You need some more hard data, AFR, Vacuum, fuel pressure, plug color...If you have a multi meter you could use the FSM to test the AFM. That should give you and indication of how it is working.
  8. Typical turbo issues: 1. All of your electrical connectors are crusty and corroded. Unplug and clean both ends one by one. 2. Anything rubber or plastic is brittle or cracking. This will cause you vacuum leak, and coolant leak hell. Start by replacing the vacuum lines, do them one by one. Then move to remove, inspect and replace if necessary any rubber boots. Inspect the injector holders and o-rings, but do not do so until you are ready to possibly replace the pintle caps or injectors as a whole. They will be brittle and probably break. Then start replacing coolant lines. 3. Check that your AFM is functioning properly and the flap can swing freely. If it sticks open it can cause a rich condition! 4. not typically an issue, but do a compression check for peace of mind, before you put a lot of effort into it. Google and Download the FSM, Print out the Fuel Injection section and give it to your mechanic. Then Read it for yourself. If he is not willing to read it, never bring your car there. do the work yourself and just get used to having to work on your old car. Good shit, gettin it back on the road.
  9. I imagined the dogs expression. He looks overwhelmed yet satisfied by your car. "Yesh" Looks great!
  10. Slowpoke

    New to Ratsun

    Looks legit. Good job.
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