DaveZilla

I've used that stuff on a 75 blazer I used to own back about 15 years ago and it's definitely good stuff. I sprayed the original dash with it and it held up quite we'll.. Even driving all summer with the top off and getting rained on a few times... That really woke up your parts, they look way better now.

I've done the same to my 280zx back in the early 90's by cutting out a section and welding it back up, then I threw out the plastic bushing and filled the opening with aluminum and re drilled the hole to the same size as the pin to take out all of the play. This worked out we'll but the aluminum eventually wore out making the stick noisy. I recently did the same on my 720 but added in a double 90 section to bring the stick 3" closer to me and welded the threaded end back on. For the bushing on this one I used my tig and filled it in with silicon bronze then drilled and teamed the hole to the exact size of the pin. This is working out way better than the aluminum I used before and it shifts perfectly smooth with no slop or play. I also drilled the bottom hole as high up the stick as possible without it binding to shorten the throw a little more. Even with the 3" dog leg added into mine it all still fits under the factory boot so it can't be seen, but it definitely makes shifting to 1St, 3rd, and 5th much easier to reach.

For a nice deep tone, run an open muffler like a flowmaster 40 or 44 series, Cherry Bomb Vortex, or magnaflow, keep it close to the collector then run your pipes all the way to the back of the truck, Another good one for a deep tone is to get the longest glass pack you can find and run the pipes all the way to the back of the truck. I'm using a Cherry Bomb Vortex muffler single inlet dual outlet with the pipes exiting at the rear and it sounds really nice and deep. You can get either the single or the dual outlet option with Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Cherry Bomb, and a few others if you like the look of the dual exhaust, there's no performance benefit by running the dual outlets, but it does look and sound good. The key for a deep tone tho is to put the muffler as far forward as you can and run the pipe or pipes as far back as you can, the longer the pipe is the better the tone, and mandrel bent pipes do tend to sound better as well.

Very Nice!! :thumbup: How well did the cam improve the midrange? I've been debating on putting a mild cam in mine to give it a little more in the 2500 to 3500 range

I like that red powder coated one... one thing you could do after powder coating is to mill off the powder coat that's over the lettering and / or the ribs then clear powder coat to give it a really cool machined appearance... the other nice thing about the aluminum that I didn't mention was that it don't have all those tabs for the plug wires like the steel one does, they can be carefully cut off the steel one tho if desired.

The benefits of the cast aluminum one is that it can be polished, bead blasted, and / or powder coated for better appearance, also if the aluminum is thick enough, it helps quiet down the valvetrain a little. The steel one can also be powder coated or polished and chromed for better appearance, but the aluminum one will always look better in most cases.

I'll be back on later.. with a spoon... One tip I can give you now is that whatever carb you decide to use, tune it to run best Before you introduce boost to the engine, this basically means get the jetting right on all circuits the carb has and once the carb is tuned to run at it's best, then you can connect the charge tube to the carb. I'd also strongly recommend getting a wideband to keep an eye on your air fuel ratios preferably before you buy anything else... it's That important to have your fuel curve proper. For your jetting, I'd start at around 1.75 to 2.00 mm main jet to get it into the ballpark... That should feed a 600cc cylinder pretty close at full throttle at max power

i'm sure you know by now that BOV's and draw thru setups don't mix... for several reasons... But, if you realy want that loud "whoosh" sound when ya let off the gas, just go blow thru. The BOV has more benefits than just keeping your turbo's rpm up between gears and I do consider it a necessary part of the system if you can use it. It also helps extend the life of your turbo, especially the floating bearings and seals since slamming the throttle shut while at boost really puts a huge load on the rotating assembly since now all the sudden all that air has nowhere to go so it stacks up and reverses it's way back to the compressor wheel on it's way looking to escape now from the compressor inlet. as far as not having deep enough pockets to go blow thru, really, it's not that expensive if you can mod the carb yourself... and if you decided to use motorcycle carbs like the Keihin CV 40 from a Harley (any Harley from 1999 up to 2007), you wouldn't even have to modify the carb at all, the reason for this is simple, you add fuel pressure vai a boost referencing regulator so it adds 1 psi fuel pressure for each pound of boost pressure, this means that you set the base pressure to 3 psi, then as boost goes up, so does the fuel pressure. This is half of the story. the other half of the story is where you run a boost line to the bowl vent so it pressurizes the bowl equal to the boost pressure or maybe 1 psi or so higher (I can show you this trick if ya didn't already find it at the turbo forum). Now the fuel and the bowl are pressurized at the same rate that the boost is coming in and this pressure forces the fuel up thru the main jet so it feeds the engine the right amount. The only thing you need to do here is get the jetting right as naturally aspirated, then connect the turbo to the inlet. If you were to choose to use the Harley carb, it would probably be best to run 2 of them, but they can easily handle the 600cc's per cylinder size of our engines. The carbs are cheap, making an adapter is pretty easy, and you'll be able to safely run the boost as long as you don't let it go lean. Here's an example of this... it's just too easy... http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/363918-Suzuki-Samurai-t25-blow-thru-Keihin You can use pretty much any late model motorcycle carb for this and usually the crotch rocket carbs are the ones that sell the cheapest used on ebay. The reason I'm choosing to go with a Holley for mine is because I got a Holley to do it with, and you can get a LOT of tuning options by setting up the power valve and the power circuit to come on only after boost is reached all while running it with stock sized jetting so your milage don't suffer during normal cruise, the Holley is also one of the easiest to tune as far as when ya need to tune just one part of the rpm range or boost level to set up a super smooth fuel curve. The motorcycle carbs can do this nearly automatically by usine the boost pressure from different parts of the system which makes them even easier if you can find some that'll work for the right price. Just let me know what you come up with and I can either answer your questions or lead you to the right links for extensive reading etc... it's all easier than it looks.

Welcome to the forum! Yeah.. pics = help You'll need to set up an image hosting like photobucket or imageshack etc, then you can link the pics from there into here.

If you're planning on doing a turbo setup, go with blow thru, it's a LOT easier than people think and you'll avoid a lot of problems associated with draw thru setups. The only true advantage of draw thru really is the initial setup is a bit easier, but that's where it stops. Either way, you'll need to upgrade the fuel system to feed the carb enough while under boost so you'll also want an efi pump and a boost sensing fuel pressure regulator. Also, if going blow thru, using a Holley 350 all you really need to do is modify the power valve circuit by opening up the circuit restrictors up and making a boost referencing power valve that opens only after boost is seen. This takes a little tuning, but the advantages are easier start ups, much better gas milage, smoother aceleration, and keeping the air fuel mix accurate both at cruise and under boost. here's a link on how to set up a holley for blow thru, just gotta do one side for a 2 barrel... http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html And here's some good reading for you to decide which way to go... mostly blow thru, but you'll see why nobody does draw thru... http://www.theturboforums.com/forums/211-Carburation-Nation Another excellent source of info for your project would be a book called Maximum Boost by Corky Bell With all this said, you can also blow thru or draw thru the weber carbs, but info on the web on carb setup is very scarce, it can be done tho and even tho the side drafts work better for this, you can boost the down drafts fairly easy. Another really easy way to turbo thru a carb is to use a Harley CV carb, pretty much all ya gotta do there is jet it proper for no boost and then pressurize the fuel bowl to feed it while under boost, if you can get 2 of these carbs and make an adapter to fit your intake manifold, this would most likely be the easiest way to go. And for the exhaust manifold, the KA turbo manifold bolts right up to the Z engine but you'll need to match port it. I'm doing the same to mine using a Holley 350 with the hangar 18 mods, just gotta get a smaller master cylinder booster because of clearance problems, then I'll put it all together, but I got tons of info and links to help you on the way if needed...

You'd need to have the rpm up pretty good before you reap the benefits of this, but ot would work... Looks like you could hide it under a 2 1/2" tall square filter just fine.

That was my original idea but my stock carb was toast and I got a really good deal on a holley 5200 which by the time I got the Weber adapter plate and the right jets and air correctors still costed less than the cost of a rebuild kit and the fuel solenoids... I won the carb off ebay for $20 brand new so couldnt beat that deal :) . By the time everything was paid for I still hadnt even come close to spending $100... I really would like to get the 38/38 dges or a 36/36 from a Maserati biturbo for it later on but I also have a brand new holley 350 sitting in the garage that would work really well too...

I was actually looking at a varijet az an option when I decided to replace the stock carb, from what I found out at the time was the varijer has a much smaller cfm rating than the holley 5200 series and Weber 32/36. Also you'd have to make an adapter since the flange is different. You can probably find a holley 5200 at the junkyard pretty easy off an older chevy or ford 4 banger, its the sams carb as the weber and you can use weber parts and rebuild kits, not to mention they do perform very well and parts are cheap & easy to find

Yup.. it's a varijet... I hadn't heard of anyone using one on a Z24 tho.

Head gasket swaps are pretty much straight forward on these, just be sure that the block deck and head surface are perfectly clean and not warped, check it really good with a straight edge and a feeler gauge for warpage, and if suspected or if anything mearures .004" or more, have the surfaces milled flat, otherwise, it's a straight forward and easy install.