Humboldt

Thanks, Hainz!

KYB Excel GR2 361001, 361002 and 361003 0n RockAuto range from extended length 22.24 to 25.94 for 240z - 280z's.

I am just worried that replacing the oil would only lead to the same problem--failed shock from oil leaking due to bad seals or pitted rod or something. Does anyone have an old cartridge they have pulled out of a 610 front they could put a tape measure to and get me the dimensions?

I am still trying to fix this. I am looing at KYB Excel GR2 361001, 361002 1nd 361003 On Rock Auto which range from extended length 2.24 stroke similarly vary. These are specified for 240z-280z. Do you have any idea which would fit a 610 wagon> Not sure if it is the same as the 510. I don't want coil overs am 70 and the car is damn low enough! Just want to quit floating all over the highway. I will have someone else put them on cuz 70 and arthritis. I don't want to rebuild existing cuz probably shot. Thanks for input.

Thanks for the info. I used took the Webers off my 80 720 and 74 610 wagon and applied the gasket dressing flange sealant and wrenched them back up. The 610's allen head bolts that hold the Weber adapter to the manifold were loose, so I Locktited them first. Both are running waaaay better now, although I'm still working on 610 intermitent ignition problem, which my 8 year old battery isn't helping.

I hate to say it, but I think Crasht420 was right. Shitty battery and possibly shitty battery cables aggravated by po's splices to eliminate fusible links.

They aren't there! and I'm not glad cuz when I hit the ignition with the car still in reverse something fried. The battery is hot - 12.4 volts, but no juice is getting anywhere.

So, maybe the PO eliminated the main fusible link with those two red wires with non stock connectors into the white plastic terminal. What do you think is next downstream that would have taken the hit and not allowed current to pass? Voltage regulator? Does your 74 have similar relay village? Does your 74 have side markers on fender or built into grille? bFrom the pic it looks like there are two circuits coming off the feed of the two red wires, and both have electrical tape wound them. Like maybe PO thought he or she would eliminate the pesky in line fusible loinks? Thanks for your responses!

I am still baffled by what the fusible link looks like. Is it inside the white plastic connectors? I was sort of looking for an in-line thing but find none. See any in the picture? Also, there is a ballast resistor on the firewall in the engine compartment (Not the coil ballast under the coil. What the heck does it do?

Well, I rteied to insert a picture of the forest of relays. Are there fusible links buried in there somewhere? Ironically, my "link" to the photo of same doesn't seem to work with the Insert image to URL but maybe this will work: . https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMo-qRtTaVKpnohHg4C9n5rGN62cW0BHBxcy9-fCC8QIK6S2bbTFK3zEPCzp1O47Q?key=aEktazF2M0xXUGtMcnZNUC00ZFoxT3hjM0x0dmR3 What does a fusible link look like? The two red wires coming off the battery to the white plastic terminals on the left hand side have continuity . So do all grounds and power to starter motor. But no starter, headlights, horn wipers . . . nothing!

I was just gloating over how good the Pumpkin ran after I put in a new Dizzy cap, rotor, points and condensor. Then I had five minutes to get to the dentist and cranked her over while it was still in gear (reverse)! It died and it was like in Star Trek when everything doesn't work. No starter, no lights, no nothin'. I pulled off the cowl over the ignition key switch and the white wire is giving out 11 volts. the other wires must be switched on by the ignition cuz they have nothing. I can't figure out where any in line fuse would be. The fuse box fuses are all good and the white wire into it hot. There is this big box on the passenger side of the engine compartment that is like a relay ghetto. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

When my son and I putt a Weber DGV 32/36 on "The Pumpkin" my 1974 610 wagon, the carb base plate didn't exactly mate up to the intake manifold surface. We had to do some dremel shaving to get it to lay flat. It has been on quite a while and I seem to have been developing some vacuum leak. I want to reinstall it and I have heard mention of an Airplane RTV that is resistant to getting dissolved by gasoline. Does anyone know the name of this, or have had similar experiences? Thanks.

Thanks

well at this point haven't got the wrenches flying. It is actually an L16 truck motor with the truck backwards pan and I'm trying to figure out how to do the least amount of work with swapping back to L16 car oil pan so it doesn't scrape. Anybody had similar issue and successful solutions??

Is this procedure from an L26 280Z applicable with a 510 with an L20B? "Just want to note that I surveyed the archives and found all the hints for removal of oil pan while the engine is in the car BEFORE I attempted to do this on my '76 280Z to replace a leaky gasket. And I must report, once you know the tricks, it is a very simple process requiring no removal of crossmember or jacking of engine. Since the hints were scattered in several posts, I thought I would take you through the process with all hints in one place:1. Jack car up on crossmember and block it there. Even better, I slid ramps under the front wheels (the car is too low to drive up them). This gave me plenty of working room, and was much safer than jack stands.2. Drain oil. Remove dipstick.3. Remove all pan bolts. Note that there are two different-length bolts used on the pan. The longer ones go throught the angled metal "spacers" or whatever they are on rear sides of pan.4. Remove bottom two bolts in the tranny bellhousing. The pan will hang up on them otherwise. 5. On my car (76 280Z), there was a small "anti-torque" thing on the steering rack. It's put together with a U-clamp like you'd find on an exhaust clamp, and is there I guess to keep the rack from twisting. Anyway, mine was situated at the driver's side of the rack. It's in the way for lowering pan. It's simple to loosen it and either remove it or (as I did) simply slide it to the other end out of the way.6. Knock pan loose with rubber mallet. After 20+ years, mine was almost 'welded' on and had to be pried loose with screwdriver, which actually bent one corner before it would bust loose. You may have to go this way, too, but try to do it only as last resort. Straightening small bends in pan rim is no big deal. 7. Loosen the two 12mm bolts on the oil pickup. They're on the driver's side about halfway down the block. Be careful not to damage the thin gasket. You don't have to actually remove this piece, but I did so to clean it up and replace the gasket. 8. Once the pan is loose, you can get a flashlight and see where your rod journals are situated. The pan will not come out unless the front journals (or more accurately, the crank counterweights in front) are rotated up into the engine. So you need to get your 27mm socket on the crank snout and turn with a big ratchet or breaker bar. (I meant to see where this was compared to TDC, but forgot.)9. Once the frontmost counterweights are up inside engine, the pan will slide back, down and out. It's a tight fit and takes a bit of jiggling, but it will make it. 10. To install, "reverse the procedure". If you've removed the oil pickup, screw it very loosely into position BEFORE you slide the pan on. Once the pan is back in position, don't forget to tighten the oil pickup bolts before you start in on the pan bolts. I tried sticking the pan gasket on with sticky sealer, but you have to wiggle everything around so much, that it still came loose. It's okay. You can fudge it around when the pan is in position, just be patient and make sure all the screws are indeed going through the gasket. Finally, do NOT overtighten pan bolts. I think they spec out at 7ftlbs. The pan gasket I used was so thick and squishy that I had to make 3-4 passes around with a small torque wrench before they would 'hold' torque. Also note that there are two or three bolts on the passengers side under the crossmember that you'll have to do with a box end, as you can't get a socket on them. 11. Don't forget to put oil back in the engine! ;-)"