1Low620

Thanks Mike, much appreciated

Well no further pics are needed, Matt was right, it is broken....... Not the machinist fault, he only did what I asked him to do which was to take the outer OD of the hub down to the base. My fault for not realizing how thin it was in that area, once it was machined down to the base it only took me tightening down the spindle nut to crack it free and shove a portion of it deeper in the hub. Even though the 2nd one didn't break, I sure as hell don't trust it, lesson learned..... thought I did enough research and from looking at other machined hubs thought I was on the right track. Guess I'll be on the hunt for a pair of hubs now and either have the Titan's bored or run something different.

Mike, I'll snap a few pictures of the ID, Mick over at H & H did these for me as I use him for re-works for work related things. I only had him turn down the OD to match what I needed for the Titans to fit, also so I could run other wheels without the need to bore them out either. When I get home form work tonight I'll clean it up and get a few more pics so re-post those.

So when I got my 73, I didn't get a chance to drive it due to break issues,carrier bearing and a few other things. I did limp it down the road to a trailer when i had to move it across town and noticed a little wobble but did not think much of it cause I would soon be replacing the pads/wheel cylinders ect. Well during that time, I had my machine shop trim down the OD of the hub to accept my titans and when I got them back he said it might be a good idea to replace the bearings. Finally got around to mocking stuff back up and noticed something wrong right off the bat! How does that happen? I honestly don't recall much if any significant wheel slop and when I took a grinder and ground them down myself before I decided to machine the rest I did not notice it either. Other side came out flawless with no issues....... Since Rockauto does not carry them, what else are my options? are 520/521 the same? those are more readily available around here it seems like.

This is correct, you should not use Stainless steel hardware with ANY aluminum material, this will create a galvanic reaction that will eat / corrode everything around it over time. Your best option would be zinc plated or even plain alloy and paint them. Will zinc plated / plain fasteners rust over time? Yep and so will stainless steel, only at a faster rate when combined with aluminum.

3672219733422869 This discount code expires on December 6, 2015

Well got the break issues resolved over the last few days and was able to take it out for the real first test drive since I bought it last year, noticed a few other issues that will need to be worked on but got it home and put back up on the stands so I could resume work this morning. When I awoke and got moving around to the garage, I was greeted with a huge puddle of trans fluid on the ground :blush: , after a few hours of cleanup and inspection I cant for the life of me figure out where it leaked from. What was spose to be a fix a few issues and daily while I tinker on it appears to have turned into a full blown drive train re-build. Sadly, its going to have to wait so I can fix a few things on the daily so I can get to work and make a paycheck so I can dump into it. Will update progress as cash flow and time allows.

14, worked for my grandfather on the weekends at his salvage yard and ended up giving him a few paychecks for a 76 standard cab 620 that looked like it came from south of the border.... three tone brown, funky bed cover, awesome wheel flares and some chrome mods with some killer knock-offs. Learned to drive 5 speed in this until the engine blew and I didnt have any more money to fix, the young teenager in me decide it would be best to trade it for a 92 YZ 250 dirt bike... at 15, I bought my 2nd 620, a 74 standard cab with engine for $200, my friend gave me a 71, 521 and we swapped the engine over and got it on the road, my dad drove this back n forth to work to save on gas but a drunk driver rear-ended him and it was a total loss..... at 16 my dad gave me his project car, a 1967 Dodge Dart GT, to kind of make up for the datsun mishap and he wanted to continue the father/son project but my mom figured the 340 big block was a little too much power at that age so he bought me a 78 Standard cab 620 instead and I drove that for a year until I was offered ( what I thought ) a deal of a lifetime for it, a 1966 Impala SS and $1,000. at 17 I sold the impala to a relative for $5,000 ( nice profit B) ) and bought a 77 GMC Jimmy that I drove for 5 months before I found my true love, a 79 customized KC 620 that I traded the jimmy straight across for, I drove that little KC daily until my son was born a few years later and the wife and I realized we needed a more practical family ride. At this point after I got a family car, I focused more on the american muscle and continued to work on the 1967 Dart GT I had finally inherited and a few other cars passed down until about 28. at 30 I found a pretty straight little 75 Standard cab 620 in PDX for $400, well, a $400 ride is a $400 ride right? while it looked solid on the outside it had hidden dangers all through out it. The backhalf of the frame looked like it was cut off and re-welded, didnt notice this till I got it on the road and it tracked hardcore, the reciept I got for the " freshly build L20 " had to have been a fake, after it became road worthy, the engine blew and once the motor was torn down, the crankshaft looked like someone took a grinder to it, timing gain gear was missing a few teeth. The front end was no better off, looked like it had been totalled and frame work done that was also unsafe to be put back on the road. I needed a ride bad as this was to be a daily driver so I parted it out and bought my 94 GMC that is still my daily driver till this day. at 34 , I bought a little White 74 Standard cab automatic from Denmarkboy, it is currently on jackstands now a year later being worked on so I can daily drive it, build thread is in the project datto section and will be updated as progress continues :thumbup: When I got my last Datsun from Denmarkboy, my wife just laughed and said something must be wrong with me to have owned so many 620's. I've always liked 620's since I first set eyes on one my uncle had one back in 1985, I just love the body style as much as an old timer loves the body style of a 57 Chev. The plus side on this 74 is it is an automatic which will help with my back issues as a 5 speed really iritated my sciatica nerves to the point my left leg goes numb. And, the wife keeps asking when i'm going to get it on the road.....I think she wants to drive it too.

Thanks! it seems all the 620's up this way have gone to the crushers now, I didn't want to get too extreme with this build but a 5 spd swap down the road is starting to look tempting.

I'll give that a whirl, I got some new drums for the rear,need to replace one that somehow managed to break during removal of old pads last year, also going to go over the fronts again and see if I can re-adjust for better results now that I'm setup with my tool box,and everything else.

Been awhile, hit a few bumps in the road and had to store this at a relatives house while I was battling my old slumlord in court. In a new house now with room to start back in on this within the next few weeks. Went to go fire it up last night and when I got there some asshole had decided they needed my battery more than I did and thought it would be funny to slash the passenger tires so I got a flat bed trailer from a friend to bring it home. Before I had to park it, I was able to get the break issues resolved but I noticed while moving it around by hand the pass front drum is locking/dragging a little.Other than that my main goal is to get power to the wheels, get it to the exhaust shop so she can breathe again and move forward with my original goal. Will update as progress moves in the right direction.

Got out there early this morning, the clicking I heard is not the adjuster trying to adjust, the tension spring thing broke and was shifting around :blush: . Think I'll just play it safe and order some new ones off Rockauto.

Yeah I broke those free and they thread in and out nicely, what happens when I put them back in is I can sit there and spin the daisy all day long but I get no movement out of them. The whole piece just spins in the body unless I manually move the screw itself in and out.

Got everything together and back down on the ground today, while up on the stands she had good pedal pressure but once on the ground running, the pedal went semi limp again. There were no visible air bubbles when I bench bled the master, I've done each wheel two times now and each wheel cylinder pees a nice steady stream of fluid so that has me kind of stumped. Encountered issues with both rear adjusters, I think they may be bad and need replaced as I took both apart, cleaned and lubed them back up but once installed there is no adjusting to them. While I had it running, sounded like a 9MM went off in the cab, crawled below and found a decent tear in the muffler, it appears the tail-pipe from the muffler back is fairly corroded and needs replaced. I have a nice magnaflow muffler I can fab up and toss in with a new rear section. Decided to run it down the road over to my brothers house which is a few blocks down, about half way she started to vibrate pretty good with a decent clunk going on. limped it back home, got it back up on the stands and noticed the carrier bearing ( bearing looks ok, rubber is shot ) disintegrated on the short drive. Previously when I inspected it, there wasn't much play so I am glad it happened now and not on the freeway. time to do some more rockauto shopping! B)

While encountering an issue with my brake shoes and drums , I noticed the adjusters were frozen. I took them off, cleaned them up, cleaned the backing plate so they could slide about in the track but I don't think they are doing their job. As I took them apart, I don't quite understand how it is they function unless I'm looking at the glass half full. Here is the complete unit. and it taken apart and The ratcheting gears were gummed up and sticking, so I cleaned and lubed them and installed them back onto the backing plates. When I try to adjust the drag, nothing happens? How is the screw that threads into the gear go in and out if the whole unit just spins inside the body? or is that how they work? I had to manually move the shoes out of the way and use a flat tip to adjust the screw but I have not been able to fine tune them.