720Joe

Ka24de, all new gaskets on the intake manifold. When I initially start the truck, it is the normal higher cold idle. Once it warms up, it begins to have the fluctuating (jumping) idle. From my understanding, this is how the IACV system works. IACV keeps the idle up until the motor reaches a certain temperature. The IACV_FICD raises the idle when the a/c compressor is turned on. Last but not least, the AAC which once the engine is warm, it regulates the air speed. Am I correct with the above said? Now, in my situation, I have no a/c so there's nothing that the ficd is doing. Am I correct to believe that AAC valve is causing this jumping idle? Should I pull it off and clean itor should be I looking for a voltage/ohm reading or both?

No more pathfinders for me. =)

You're right. Thanks to Jeff for the help he has supplied me with. =) The blk/wht wire will be hooked up tomorrow. I'm using the tubing from a 240. I'll post some before/after pics. Hopefully I can finally get the truck over to my friends shop tomorrow for intake/exhaust work.

I know it's not all right, I just haven't gone through it yet to correct it, but it does run. The only relay that needs to be switched is the one running the IACV, Main ign power and 02 sensor, correct? That's what I see on the how-to diagram. To clear this up a bit. I had a friend help on the wiring part and I mainly went along with what he said. I tend to underestimate/doubt myself when it comes to alot of things, especially wiring. I also tend to overthink stuff alot, so that hurts the situation too. Anywho I've since gone through it all(the wiring diagrams and such) and know what needs to be switched around. The one relay to be switched will be switch from the ignition switch. I just did it the way I did because the wire was already ran and it was quicker then tapping into a switched source. All in all, tomorrow will be a kinda big deal. Hoping to get the exhaust dealt with and the intake chopped to fit the truck engine bay.

I am using a fuse and there is a wire going to the starter, there's no other way it would turn over if it wasn't. The only thing I did differently was turn my relays on using a switch, versus hooking them up to an ignition hot power. Like I said it's just temporary.

Thats just the way I choose to do it for now. They will be switched on by the ignition switch in the near future.

My ignition switch is fine, the only thing it does is crank the motor. The relays are wired to the toggle switch. The block is a frontier block, rear sump, so no modifying was necessary.

Update: TRUCK IS RUNNING! For some reason, I have to crank it, then while cranking flip the switch that turns on the relays. I'll be going through and cleaning up the wiring within the next week. Tomorrow I'm going to do a small cleanup on the wiring, bleed the clutch, bolt the bed down and take her for a spin. If all goes well, I'm going to throw on the 240 water neck and get a couple things more situated and possibly take her to a local meet right around the corner. So excited!! Thanks for all the help on here guys. Anyone know if a dual cam Ka has been swapped into a 720 before? I can't find one that was finished for the life of me.

Went by the diagrams here on ratsun. That's wired up. I jsut wanna say thanks for everyones help on this.

So...The truck idle'd fine, revved fine. It WILL NOT start without starting fluid. It seems the Injectors ARE NOT firing during cranking, what can cause this? I installed an ecu and distributor from a friends car that he JUST parked to swap in an SR and I KNOW they are good.

Yea, I was told tonight that if the CAS is on it's way out you may still get spark but no pulse to the injectors. I'm going to try another distributor I have tomorrow and possibly another ecu.

Ok, well the injectors are not firing. I pulled the fuel rail off and turned the engine over, no squirt. Then, to make sure they functioned and wernt clogged, I jumped them to 12v and they sprayed perfectly. Sooo, at this point, my next move is to try a different ecu. Any other ideas?

Mhm, and I was also telling you from the beginning that was my problem, I didn't have a pulse. :P IACV and all that jazz is hooked up, I made sure of it before it was together because of it's location. I checked voltages on sensors today and everything seems fine. All gaskets are new on the intake. I pulled the #1 spark plug, turned it over and don't see any fuel in the cylinder at all.

Update #1: Multimeter now confirms ground from ecu to injectors while cranking. Found out two of the injectors were bad, swapped those with ones that ohm'd out ok. It's started twice, but on starting fluid. MAF is currently disconnected, just trying to get it to idle at the moment. Not sure where to look now... Update #2: Started it again with starting fluid it won't start on it's own. Once it's running it will continue to run if i throttle it, even after the starting fluid has worn off.