Datsunworks

So I measured the tube and it's 38.25 mm which is 1.506". The one on eBay that I linked to is showing 1.485. I found a listing for a 720 that showed a measurement of 30.84mm so that's right out. So it's either a club or take a chance on a lock from Thailand actually fitting. I'll update the thread if I end up going that direction.

My thoughts as well. Although a determined thief will find a way. I'm looking at the steering lock as the least inconvenient way to get some added protection. That and the manual transmission should cover about 90 percent of the thieves who hotwire. A kill switch is not a bad idea either.

I was thinking that as well. I did find an Ebay listing for this 1972-1979 DATSUN 620 UTE PICKUP UTILITY TRUCK IGNITION SWITCH LOCK KEY FIT On the last picture they have a caliper showing a measurement that appears to be highly accurate 🙂 The column is out of something that used a lock since the hole is in the tube and the shaft has the slot for the pin.

Hi I did some searching but kind of came up empty. My 79 KC has provisions on the steering column for a steering lock key switch. Was this an option on the 79? Any idea if one from another model will fit? Thanks Derek

Thanks. I did a clay test with multiple hard pulls and it looks like it is really close to hitting the box. I'll have to see how it goes. I didn't notice a rattle but then again under hard pulls there is enough chaos going on that It may not be an issue. Path of least resistance at this point will be a torque strap. This isn't my forever motor so how much time do I really want to put into it. I thought I could get by without AC for a bit but in Florida these days it seems like you need it 365/24/7. Ideally I would have made a quick pattern and had one of the foundries I work with cast it in iron but that was a hill too high right now time wise. For others, committing to laser cutting and a more traditional welded design would get this to where it needs to be.

Behold the $2500.00 AC bracket. 😀 Yes that is what I would have charged someone to get to this point. And this is what I do for a living. $125.00 an hour adds up pretty quickly. AC compressor fits great. I'm concerned by the amount of unsupported weight I have hanging below the 4 mount points where the idler mounts. I added the flat bar reinforcements to hopefully mitigate it. If it starts howling I suppose I could hammer a 2X4 in between the plate and oil pan. 😂 All in all I'm happy with how it turned out. Hopefully it will work as designed when I get it plumbed up.

Anyone following this post for the AC install I have started a new post here:

I'm picking up on this where 620_Brian left off on this post: https://ratsun.net/topic/74907-620-ka24de-swap-underway-pics-pics-pics/page/3/ So much so that I now own his truck:). The problem is that all of the larger Sanden compressors hit the steering box. Brian made good progress by purchasing a SD7B10 which is a smaller version and that is where I'm picking it up from. It was obvious that the compressor would need to be rigid mounted and tensioned with an idler like the factory mount. The first thing I did was pull the needed data points from the factory bracket. Mostly the block bolt pattern and the relationship of the idler slot face to those bolts to establish the belt position. I then measured the compressor and it's mounting points and started the design process. I like to get to the CNC mill as soon as possible when reverse engineering/designing because ultimately that is where the rubber meets the road for me. It's a game of make a piece, test fit, get more data, rinse and repeat. Here is the final model that I derived from all the test fitting: I like to make my test pieces bolt together so that I can easily make modifications. Here is the final test piece. Partially used Ticonderoga for scale:) The material is Type 1 PVC. I use it a lot for this kind of work. I think this was the third iteration of the original bracket. I started out with .5" plate but that was a non starter since it put the compressor too close to the box. I switched to .25". I had to make the rectangular cutout to clear cast lettering in the block. And here it is installed. The belt lines up great. There is about .625" clearance between the compressor and the box. The engine torque direction should improve that gap so that's always nice:) You can just fit the compressor into place from the bottom. I have no plans on producing these but will happily hand over the final STEP file for anyone that wants to take the ball and run with it. You would need to make the design work for your method of production but the critical data is there. I'm going to use a steel .25" plate with some welded gusseting and the rest will be aluminum and steel pieces that are bolt on kind of like what you see. Since I'm only doing one I want to make it as modifiable as possible.

But it's Rock Auto. They would never lie 🙂 I found multiple listings for that tie rod fitting a 620 but they were all suspiciously the same pictures and wording. I'm thinking the safest bet is to order the ones Crashtd420 linked to and cal it a day. Thanks for the help.

I did but totally missed that one. I was thinking more along the lines of this Delphi unit that is adjustable. Since it's adjustable the clocking will sort itself out.

1979 620 but the same rod fits multiple years and models. I can only seem to locate the right outer tie rod assembly. Lefts seem to have dried up. Anyone have a source for new lefts? Short of that I saw in another post that the difference between right and left is the clocking. There are right sides available that are adjustable so I'm wondering if I can achieve the proper clocking since it's adjustable. Thanks Derek

I would prefer that you spoon feed me 🙂 Thanks for the link.

You don't happen to have any documentation on this do you? PIN numbers to the ECU, power, zero volts etc etc. I'd hate to let the "magic smoke" out of the ECU while flying blind. Thanks Derek

It's 307 Pacific Blue As far as HP kind of a guessing game. The Rebello built Zcar garage 3.18L KN20 made over 100HP a liter at the wheels. Now I'm no Dave Rebello but I'm hoping to get close to that. Kind of depends on if I want to pay to get it ported and flowed. I may just do some smoothing in house and call it a day. I usually leave making big numbers to people with deeper pockets 🙂

Thanks for the response. I have the valve in a box of parts that came with it but who knows if it's any good. I guess I'll stick with my plan which is to rework the exhaust and hot wire the engine fan. This way I can drive it and determine if the engine has any issues. If it's good then I will see if I can get the IAC system working and then go from there. Ultimately it will get a MS3 when I do the KN16 swap and the Wiring Specialties harness looks like it will play nicely so that may happen sooner than later.