Thepspack

How have I missed these vids!! I was great watching you build these, Your attention to detail and quality of craftsmanship with these is incredible. Can't wait to get mine on my truck, and it was well worth the wait. Thanks so much!!

So I spent a few hours measuring and sanding needles with great success. At Idle the gauge sits between 13-14, under acceleration it's around 12, cruising on the freeway it's at 14. Runs bitchen, couldn't be happier, never thought a few thousandths would make such a big difference. Thanks everyone for the help.

I finally returned from playing army and installed my O2 sensor. At idle it's between 11-12, thats about right. Once I begin to accelerate it begins to lean out, at 2500 RPM the gauge hits 17, then go's off the charts lean as It nears 3000 RPM. Time to start modding needles. :D

Thanks, I'll check it out when I get back from duty.

I figured the Accel coil did not need the ballast resistor. After reading this I went out and felt the coil after driving the truck a few miles home from work. Holy shit it was hot, too hot to touch. Unfortunately the PO pulled all the wires going to the resistor and I have no clue what go's where. There are a bunch of wires coming out of the harness there. Tried doing a plug chop, They all look the same, kind of grayish, I'm assuming the idle is slightly rich, then when I hold the truck around 3k, it go's lean and whitens them up.

Thanks for the help everyone, once I start modifying needles that should take care of the stumbling.

38mm SU's rebuilt by Z Therapy.

I went back through and checked everything thing out with the engine at TDC on the second bigger mark. The cam lines up perfectly now, the distributor drive was a tooth out as well, so I fixed that. Started it back up and reset the timing at 12 degrees. Runs noticeably better now, vacuum at 20pds steady, feels a little cooler too. Took it on a test drive, more power off idle. Still a little stumbling as it approaches 3k, but almost no backfiring out of the carbs. I'm thinking thats the needles still. As for the parts on the engine: A87 peanut, ported to 1.5" SSS intake ZT Su's w/ M143 needles Stock L16 cam L16 stock pistons All bottom end stock L16 Points distributor w/ Pertronics, Accel coil I took a little video so you guys can listen, hopefully you guys can here it. There was one backfire in there just after I took off other that that it did pretty good.

Crap! I reset the distributor and cam off the first mark. So I've got everything retarded…

Got the truck back together. Fired right up, set to timing to 10 degrees advanced and it seems pretty happy. Threw a vacuum gauge on it and it's reading 17-18 pds steady. Backfiring issue still persists. Straightened pointer Cam timing with straighter pointer When I first tried to get this thing running i realized the distributor was 180 out. I dropped the oil pump and corrected it but it still looks like it's wrong, maybe a tooth off there as well? My timing gun says 10 degrees advance but the plate looks like a lot more.

Ok, so I put the cam on the #1 hole, still don't look quite right. I think it's because of my timing pointer, in the photo it looks bent. If I set to time to it, that could be throwing everything off. I backed the sprocket one more tooth but that puts it to far back. It looks like if I bend the pointer to where it should be that would rotate everything a few degrees counter clockwise and everything would look right. Sprocket on #1

I made a cam chain tool last night after some 4th of july libations, think I did a pretty good job considering. I'm going to pull my truck into the garage and attempt to fix the cam timing. I'll report back the results.

It idles great as long as I keep the timing around 18-20 degrees advanced. If I set it to 10 or 12 degrees it's not very happy, I have to crank the idle up and the exhaust manifold gets pretty damn hot. I'll check the PCV when I get it back together.

Shit! I never saw those marks I'll fix that too. Thanks!

Thanks for the help everyone! I've watched Mklotz's video on reclocking the cam sprocket. The idea is dicking around with sprocket till it looks just like Sealik's picture? Seems simple. If the cam is too advanced, that may be why it seems so happy with the timing way advanced at idle. When set the new needles I used the technique in the ZT video. Screwed the nozzles all the way in, lightly set the needle in the slide, and gently push the slide in while holding the nozzles in place till the slide bottoms out. Then tighten the needle. I filled the slides with oil just to the threads. A tiny bit would spill out as push the damper thingys in. On both needles that i've tried I used ATF as recommended by ZT. I've also tried 20 WT fork oil to slow the slide down a little and enrichin the mixture upon acceleration.