LB2

I can totally understand not being a fan of cutting and welding suspension components but as of yet with all the SR swaps performed in the last what 10 years? Not one report of a failed cut and rewelded centerlink or front crossmember. Now I've heard of failed lower control arms modified for lenghtening (camber) and moving forward (caster). You do it right!!! The first time and you shouldn't have a worry.

Hey Brad Next trip out we do Mexican, beers and cars no? Lou

I recurved my centerlink in my SR swap, it was easy. Made a jig to hold the end to end length then cut the ends off above the bend closer to the end. Then I beveled the cuts down to their centers at both ends, placed back in jig and welded it back together. Smoothened up the welds at the surfaces and took some tubing with an ID the same as the OD (or close to it) of the centerlink. Cut two lenghts of tubing to extend past the weld at each end about .625" 5/8" cut those pieces in half and welded them to the centerlink. This was 5 years ago and all is good.

Hey Datzilla why is it we've never seen you at Summit Point, WV at the East Coast 510 Meet every May? Your 510 is very nice and we'd love to have ya come on down for the weekend of racing, pallet fires, partying and in general just hangin out. Oh by the way, did you know Pete Brocks V8 Monster 510 is called Datzilla?

When I was a Datsun Mechanic at Sun Datsun in Whiottier Ca in the 70's, the 510's imported to the US were never referred to as a Coupe but were referred to as Sedans no one called them Coupes. When a customer special ordered 510 from Japan in came in as right hand drive L18, SU's then we all noticed the badge saying "Coupe" and were hooked. So ya US models are Sedans, Japan models are Coupes of couse you can call it what ever you want. I call my 510,, The Datsun or The 510. Sorry no pretty names here, can't bring myself to call the 510 anything else. Though there are some really good name for the 510 out there and my favorite is The Bronze!!

Hmm!! Personally you should NOT!!! use air tools to set such a very important torque on such a critical holding point. You already have the holding bar for the axle why not take the time and setup a torque wrench to torque to the required 235ftlbs of torque and do it right the first time? I'm wondering if heat generated from brakes and rotational friction won't soften the nylock causing it to loose it's hold not that it really holding in the first place. You know, there is a reason Nissan didn't use a nylock nut in that position and instead used a nut designed to be steaked. On the Realm there is a write up on someone's 510 rear axle nut coming loose causing the axle to start pulling out because it wasn't properly torqued then staked. Torquing and steaking won't cost you a tow and or a car or worse.

I'd be careful about the shits :poop: part, but the git part is cool. Maybe your butt dyno is more sensitive :sneaky:

I'm running an S14 SR20DE NA approximately 180hp. My exhaust is 2.25" from the down pipe back. There's a 12" Cherry Bomb glasspak that has a perforated ID that does not protrude into the exhaust flow right at the exhaust manifolds down pipe. Outback is a Magnaflow muffler, no fart cans here. The sound is awesome when tooling around and not to bad on the highway but it gets loud and raspy when getting into the throttle and sounds like dual webers on a GT3 race motor. Likely due to the dual overhead cam 16 valve design. I tried one of the Cherry Bomb Turbo mufflers out back and it was way louder and raspier than the Magnaflow so it got sent back. I wouldn't mind cutting the exhaust down 10 decibles for hiway running for those long 15 hour drives to NC via Summit Point 510 gathering each year.

Ya, I rejetted my carb just a bit with a jet reaming kit I had and still have though I haven't used it in some 30 years. Because the plane in which the primary intake on the carb is running in is smaller, it's supposed to create better low end because in theory it speeds up the intake charge. This is what I remember Mr. Moon of Moon Equipment in Norwalk Ca telling me when I inquired about the manifold. Plus if running a big cam which typically sucks low-end out of your engine, it restores that feeling and gets the cam to it's sweet spot quicker. Lou

If you don't do you home work for a Turbo setup you motor will go south in a heart beat. I know guys who are very good mechanics and very knowledgeable and built L series Turbos to only see them break things for reasons there still baffled about.

Damn Brad that's a good one!!! I used chemical paint stripper with a plastic scraper, faceshield, elbow high chemical gloves from work and a charcoal resperator. Always wear a resperator of some sort when grinding to avoid resperatory plugging.

Used one of those around `74-`75 and experienced zero change cept for my wallet which got worse when I sold the manifold and put a Crown Turbo kit on :thumbup: :w00t:

Are you still running a ballast resistor? Because if it's getting red hot it won't run the ignition, but when it cools it will. Ive see this happen before years back. Remove the resistor (if still running it) and make sure your coil is correct for the distributor.

Wait, your in Whittier and couldn't make it to Long Beach? Bummer Ya!! I'm in NH and plan on attending 2014. Almost went this year but couldn't get the time off, it's Nuclear and the timing wasn't in my favor. I'm originally from Whittier, Telegraph and Valley View North East of the old Monte Vista High School football field my Alma Matter aka: LAPD Facility :thumbup: I think my bud Brad may have attended dunno.

Actually the 240Z unit will work but you do have to shorten the floats arm. Someone on the realm did it and has pics!!