Spades

^This. I haven't found any donors at the local yards over the years, and now I don't have the time to go crawling through the wrecking yards. I read about possible s14 swaps since those parts are readily available, but the steering geometry is jacked up by comparison (initially sounded worth the time and work because of newer/better parts and power steering). Doesn't sound like there's a way to spend less than a couple of grand unless I find old parts in a wrecking yard.

So, part of the reason I asked about direct purchase is due to 280 stuff becoming more difficult to find these days. Not to mention that, but even with 280 struts I would still need new 510 strut tops (bad bearings and trashed rubber,etc) and I haven't been able to locate new ones. I was looking at t3s website and they require a core for their 280 strut builds. Are there any other readily available suspension swap options? Between myself and my buddies, fabrication and welding isn't a concern, it's the time required (i.e. is this a day or a year project) and parts availability. If I can get swap parts readily from rock auto or a local scrap yard I'm open to suggestions (keep in mind most 80s Nissans were cleaned from wrecking yards in my area years ago). Looking at T3 I'd be in it for well over $2k just to get started (I'd still need caliper/brake mounting hardware/brackets and a more powerful master cylinder)...is this really the best option?

Good afternoon! I'll preface this thread by apologizing if these specific questions have already been asked and I missed it. I asked about brake and strut upgrades years ago and everyone told me to try and find used 280 struts. Used parts I need to modify is not what I'm after. Currently I work 80 hours a week so trying to sift through all the info for a complete front suspension overhaul hasn't gone well. My 510 wagon's front struts bearings are starting to make noise and also I want to upgrade the brakes, springs, etc. all at once. I don't want it slammed, but the wagon currently has chopped coils to drop it a couple inches in the front. I have more cash than time so that rules out modifying 280 struts (unless there's a company selling them complete with no cores required). Is there a shop I can buy everything I need (coilovers/struts/strut tops/bearings, camber plates if needed, hubs, better disc brakes/calipers, etc)? I'm looking for bolt in parts that won't require major time or modification. I have a later model Nissan brake master cylinder, and I don't need a crazy front disc set up. Just something with maybe dual piston calipers that will fit behind 15" wheels. Also, my front hubs and bearings are stock and 40 years old. I'm not apposed to any set up that will replace all the old hard to find front suspension bits with aftermarket or later model Nissan parts. I apologise in advance as im sure variations of these questions have already been asked. I'm just hoping to find the best and most cost-effective way to replace the complete front suspension with newer/better parts.

This is what I suspect is happening. I am wondering if it is the way the cam was ground, because even adjusting the cam gear doesn't make it run "right"...and after exhausting any potential ignition issues (including testing for faulty distributors, coils, and plug wires (or running the wrong wire to the wrong cylinder)) what was left was the mystery grind cam. It does run good now, but again, the timing is advanced high for what these motors normally run.

The engine wants WAY more than 3 degrees timing. Already running the right plugs, both sets are firing, and this was all covered in a thread from a few years back (you and I hashed it over in great detail). http://community.ratsun.net/topic/33328-naps-z24-camshaft-issues/ Basically, after a ton of messing around, the cam gear was off time, but even with that reset, the engine ran the best at about 12 degrees advanced...15 degrees would give me more power (no predetonation or knock) but the engine would diesel if ambient air temps exceeded 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Both coils are functional and all plugs firing. I have swapped dizzys and control modules, checked mechanical and vacuum advance, cam timing, etc...and after tons of effort and placing it on the labscope and gas analyzer, it looks like it is the cam. Unlike most Naps engines, this one is still pulling strong at 5500 RPM...I haven't run her past 6k ever, but up to that point the power doesn't fall off. All of that brought be to believe the mystery grind cam from Oregon Cam Grinding is set up for high RPM dirt tracks or something, because this engine doesn't act like any other naps motor I have dealt with. EDIT: As far as the balancer, I am not really worried about it after doing a bit more research.

Yeah, if I go over 55 it dips into the secondary with the 4 speed...I haven't had the time to swap in the 240sx 5 speed i have sitting around...I don't even know if it will bolt up to the pickup naps z24 engine I have. As far as the partial throttle misfires, there is no EGR on this engine, it was never installed...the engine is a bored and balanced with forged pistons and rods (as well as the head ported and polished, and I did a mediocre/fair job at port matching the intake and exhaust manifolds) as the guy I bought it from was planning on adding a turbo to it someday. The partial throttle misfire was a random miss at 1/2 - 3/4 throttle at 3k-4k RPM under medium load...after mucking around with the cam and distributor timing, I dialed it out...but due to the insane amount of timing the engine likes and looking at all of the data I collected when first installing this engine, this cam is set up for either for boost or a high RPM oval track racer. At any rate, after looking at the labscope and gas analyzer readings at the shop I used to work at, I suspect that this engine would make more power and have better drivability with a different camshaft and a richer secondary jet (or an otherwise larger carburetor, I haven't seen the flow ratings, but I suspect the 32/36 might be a little undercarbed for a mildly built z24).

I have had interesting experiences tuning and setting the cam timing on this engine due to the mystery cam. When ignition and cam timing aren't dialed in perfectly, I have found the engine likes to have mid RPM partial throttle misfires, and after tracing the ignition system many times and putting the engine on a labscope, it appears to be from the grind of the "custom" OCG camshaft...so I always figured due to the extreme idle "lope" and the thing not wanting to run out of steam at 5500+ rpm, I figured the overlap and lift on this thing must be as crazy as they could go without the valves touching. All that being said, I figured that had a bit to do with the roughness of the engine, so I never worried about a balancer, but some people on other forums have mentioned that the NVH is possibly due to the lack of a harmonic balancer. At any rate, Doc510 said he had a used one, and I have seen oics of them on the internet. Right now I am not making it a huge priority cause it sounds like most didn't have them from the factory...and in my time working as a mechanic for 7 years I never saw a single one... EDIT: I still want to replace the mystery grind camshaft though...I never run the car hard, so it never sees the RPM this cam appears to be ground for. I also might see if I can re-jet the secondary on the 32/36 (or go bigger, though I hate to loose the fuel economy), the gas analyzer on the lab scope showed it would run slightly lean at WOT thru higher RPM ranges.

That's what I thought, but several people on forums had mentioned some issues with "welded on" flywheels and sheered crank noses that they blamed on a lack of harmonic balancers. The engine I have is not very smooth, and I blame the extreme OCG camshaft that is in it for the majority of the NVH, but I plan on ditching that cam for a Comp cams CCA-88-123-6. Anyway, Doc510 says he has a couple...I am guessing these things are the unicorn of NapsZ parts...not sure that 30+ year old rubber is going to do alot of dampening anyway.

So the NAPS Z motor I originally swapped into my wagon did not come with a balancer (just a standard crank pulley), and the Z24 long block that I later bought did not either. I just swapped all the pullys from the Z20 to the Z24 block when I built it (I had just bought all new stuff to stick on the z20 before it tanked about 60 miles later...go Bill's Datsun "remanufactured" engines). I have read in several places that when the balancers go bad it can cause all kinds of chaos, and none of my naps z's have had them, just the standard crank pulley. I have not been able to find anywhere that sells a new balancer. I am wondering if anyone knows where I can buy a new one (I am sure I can find a used one somewhere, but then the question is how well is that 30 year old rubber going to dampen vibration). If the worst I am going to be dealing with is the lack of refinement without the balancer, I could care less, but I really don't want to damage an engine with only a few hundred miles on it...so any input or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone. I have been absent from the forums for quite some time (first due to serious health issues, then after that was sorted out I started working two jobs) and my wagon has been mostly parked (only taken out on sunny days to keep the lot rot monster at bay). I am wondering if any company or shop makes a direct bolt in lowering strut assembly package (no hacking, welding, or modification required) for the front of the 510? I put new struts and hacked a coil off the factory springs back when I built the car, but I would like to go a tad lower and unfortunately I am still working some crazy hours and I don't have the time to go crawling through junkyards for 280zx struts (or the time to hack them to suit the 510). EDIT: I did a fairly quick search (sorry if I missed anything) but I am not seeing a complete setup, and most places offering an upgraded coilover with better front brakes are requiring a 280zx core. So, if you have the money, but not the time, and want a better brake setup and a lower drop in the front, what are the options? Thanks, Spades

Thanks for the tips mike! I had already dried out the dizzy and cleaned all my contacts, but I have not run a seperate ground yet. I will try that...it doesn't look like anyone local has a module, but I did get a PM from someone that is willing to ship a used one if the ground idea doesn't work.

Well, I will try one last bump. If anyone close to Portland has a Z24 or Z22 8 plug distributor or ignition control module, please fire me a PM...I am hoping not to have to deal with shipping.

Bump. Still looking for a local dizzy or ICM. If anyone around the portland area has one sitting in their garage, let me know!