LRAYVICK

Need a rear bumper for trailer towing. Dock bumper or receiver would work. Near San Diego. LRAYVICK@cox.net

Yes, Loz I might have to buy a few more. (I do have a sorta beat up 521 in the back yard waiting for me to "finish" the 720) Since cleaning the fuel system including the carb, recleaning the fuel pump filter, fixing a vac leak, and just this morning finding a partly disconnected coil wire I was pretty optimistic it would pass smog which it did this afternoon. BTW I found a replacement filter at the local Nissan dealer and on line at thepartsbin.com.

I have an old tach I want to connect under the hood to set the idle speed prior to my smog check. I don't have a tach in the truck. I have looked over the wiring diagrams but I'm still confused. There is a round 6-port "check" connector just in front of the coolant overflow tank. It has blue, black, yellow, and brn/bk wires. Can I use any of these to connect a tach? My tach is the old style dwell/tach meter with a hot and a ground connector. The nice thing about investigating this today is I found a bad secondary coil connection which I fixed - the truck runs much better now. BTW the epnet.com wiring diagram for 86 Nissan 720 2.4 L trucks does not appear to be consistent with my wiring. (Don't know how to insert a photo of the connector or I would)

Thanks herc. Put about 150 miles on my little truck until the fuel pump filter pretty much plugged with rusty stuff. Also found I had a vacuum leak where the manifold facuum fitting screws into the manifold. I found the vac leak when I was searching for the reason why it was starving for fuel when I accelerated :rolleyes:. Anyone know where is a good place to buy the in-pump filter, carbureted? I think the 150 miles did it some good as far as getting most of the systems functioning. Even the fuel guage seems to be starting to work. But not the temp guage too well yet - however that may be related to a stuck thermostat cause the coolant doesn't seem to get hot even when I have been running for a while.

Thanks Mike. Since it almost never gets cold in my part of So Cal I won't worry about it. The idle problem I mentioned has been fixed more or less by bypassing the thermal vacuum valve and the vacuum control valve so I have straight vacuum to the distributor. It is still a bit of a hard starter and when the motor is fully warmed up it idles a bit too high. I guess after I change what may be 23 year old plugs and adjust the valves probably for the first time in its life it should do better.

Back in 07 rworkman98 was good enough to post this link to a blowup of the 720 carb http://www.geocities.com/rworkman98@sbcglobal.net/carb.htm. The rod on Part #46 is broken on my carb. Does anyone know what that part does? I am still having a problem with my idle when cold on my 86 2.4 L. It idles very slow when cold and will die if I gas it then let off. After it warms up it idles fine. I am looking at the vacuum hose diagram. Is there a hose I can plug or re-route to fix this my variable idle? I am thinking I will clamp the thermal vacuum valve and the vacuum control valve so I have straight vacuum to the distributor.

and some of them even came true (Mark Twain) I have a RUNNER and even the air works. So my worries were for naught (still have to pass smog). Put the carb back on, fiddled with the idle and starting a few times. She finally got all the systems going and runs GREAT! I don't think I will ever buy another truck. Now all I have to do is change the fluids, fix the gas guage, do some paint and probably replace the good looking but 18 year old tires.

I found this site thanks to my son Doug, Twodoordime. He convinced me to buy the truck. It is a 66 K mi basic 2.4 manual with carb, not running well at all. White paint is starting to peel but the body is straight and the interior is like original including the owners manual. Truck overall and engine are completely unmolested. I think the running issue is the carb. After installing a new battery I got it to start - lots of smoke at first which tells me it sat for a few years. It would start with diffeculty, rev a little, idle smootly sometimes then die. When I pumped the carb I saw no fuel squirting into the carb throat. I drained the fuel tank and put some fresh gas in. I removed and checked the fuel filters, fuel pump, and lines then reassembled and tested. Got fuel to the carb. Pulled the carb which was pretty dirty in the float bowl. The float needle was stuck almost closed so that's why it wasn't getting much fuel and the primary jet was almost plugged. Everything else looks ok except I found a broken external connection between a small vacuum part and the throttle linkage. It looks like the broken connection has to do with the choke system. Before I try and fix that I will see if it passes smog. In CA it's very diffectult to pass smog if there is any aftermarket motor stuff so I won't be going the Weber conversion route. In case I need it I did find a carb rebuild kit for $65 plus shipping on line. I also found it has about $270 in backfees - the fees you get charged anyway by the CA DMV for failing to register your vehicle each year. So the carb fix better work or this is a parts truck. If I can get it running good without spending my life and a fortune doing it I will leave it pretty much stock except for the aftermarket wheels and I will add a dock bumper/tow hitch. Will post a pic soon. Any comments or suggestions welcome. Ray in El Cajon