Mitchell

Following up, the next occurrence while the charge light came on when running, I carefully unplugged the alternator t plug and the charge light went dim but remained on. After this, to get everything back working I repeated taking the positive battery terminal off and on while running to get everything working again. Even though the battery terminals looked clean, went ahead and gave them a fresh cleaning while I had them off and back to basics been 5 days without the issue so far. We've had an extremely humid summer might have something to do with the grounds acting up. Thanks so much for everyone's input!

Unplugging the alternator will be interesting, I'll definitely do that and report back to hopefully settle this, once it acts up again, I was tempted to add grounds to the instruments, but I have a full width AC evaporator attached to the dash that makes it difficult to access. Yesterday I ran everything aok, AC, Turn Signals, Fuel Gauge, Tach and Temp all working. One thing I have observed is the plug in volt meter is reading higher, closer to or at 14 more often than usual. Probably improved contact from all the plugging and unplugging. I really appreciate all of the feedback and suggestions!

Thanks Mike, Will do that...

Thanks to both of you, much appreciated. Forgot to mention the Fuse Block looks good, not corroded, no prior overheated melted connections and all 6 fuses were powered on both ends with parking lights on which were also tested during and after the issue had cleared up. But a cleaning is worth a try. Where would be best the way to power the instruments temporarily to test, (after removing the fuse) the next time this occurs? After posting the above, I took a 10 mile test drive and the next time had occurred sooner than expected, the trigger for the charge light coming back on and all gauges stopping functioning was when I put my turn signal on. I stopped removed the positive terminal once and 'reset' and all began working again. Once I returned home, I tried the turn signal and no effect, charge light did not come on. Mike you're right these intermittent problems are the worst...

Hi, I've had the following happen twice. All instruments, tach, fuel gauge, turn signals (try to flash but don't, charge light dimmed), parking brake light will stop working and the Charge light will come on, but the plugin lighter outlet meter shows 13.7 to 14.2, however the hazard flashers work, truck runs and starts normal, turn signals seemed like not enough power because the charge light dims. The first time it happened, I plugged and unplugged all the relays and alternator plug as well as the round connector and all came back on and worked fine for about 2 months. The second time, this didn't work. What did work was while the truck was running, removing the positive terminal five consecutive times while running each time with different results until it seemed to 'clear up' on its own. The first time I removed the terminal the truck stopped running. The second time it remained running but the charge light was still on. The third time the parking brake light came on, tach and gas gauge all came on and the charge light didn't, but as soon as I used the turn signal the charge light came back on. Repeated these steps one more time and all was well and remains working fine, even after multiple restarts, very strange....! Driven daily, and just trying to avoid a possible future tow bill....

The driveshaft bolts are Nissan Part Number BOLT-HEX M8X1.25 x 25mm length 08120-82510

Just to finish up, Mike you were right again. Rotating the rear portion of the driveshaft 180 degrees corrected the 35-45 mile per hour vibration. The driveshaft connection behind the carrier was not splined but was easier to rotate by disconnecting at the carrier and from the diff,. I did notice the transmission shop replaced my driveshaft bolts and they aren't matched, some are 1/2" head and others are 13mm head and longer in length does anyone know the correct size / pitch of the driveshaft bolts and best place to get them? Thanks everyone for your comments.

Okay Great, I'll be able to do that, Thanks

Thank you very much, I'll try that. Will I need to remove the driveshaft or can it be rotated while on the vehicle in place?

Well thanks you guys much appreciated, it sounds like if the shaft is splined it just needs alignment. I didn't do the repair so I'm not sure if it's splined, do any of you know for sure if the 79 620 driveshafts are splined?

Thank you, I checked this out and the U Joint nearest to the transmission is out of phase with the other 2 U Joints located at center and differential. But only about 15 degrees. Not sure if rotating in 90 degree increments will help this since there's only 4-bolts?

Hi, I have a 79 620 long bed and recently had the 3 U Joints (SKF) and Carrier Bearing (Timpkin) replaced. There's a vibration now that reminds me of when a carrier bearing is worn. I think they didn't orient the driveshaft correctly. Will a driveshaft specialist be able to re clock it correctly?

Between all of the tries, must have bled 2 quarts of brake fluid through the system in all of the attempts. You're right I should try to inspect at least before rushing to get the crane.

Mike, Wow, you really now these cars, that sounds exactly like what it is, very likely to me. You read this right, all was well before the car was put up. Problem began during the most recent test/exercise drive 3 years later. Looks like I'll need to look at renting or buying a crane to get the motor and transmission out to check the wire clip situation and deal with it outside of the car, not like working on the 620. Thanks Very Much for the insight... I'll let you know once I get it apart and post a few pics. Best Regards, Mitchell

Would you know the amount of space or if It's possible to access the pivot ball and the clutch arm, separating the engine from the transmission without taking the transmission and motor out?