Russell

no blech 95 Isuzu rodeo taillights, they look so muther f@#ken flush though....... :rofl: ...no but i picked up a new bed and 521 tail lights that will be going on later.

so i got the motor and trans bolted together and got it in the truck sitting on the engine mounts i had to do a little work to the 521 mounts. so i welded 2 little beads on the mounts so it will sit at an angle. the first time i had just the spacer plates and the rubber look like it was being warped way to much. also my dumbass cut the trans tunnel thinking it wouldn't fit but it would have. im so pissed at my self, F@$K me heres the motor mounts in place more picssssssssssss Oh and since I'm a one man army here's my great idea on how to run the fork lift while i guide the engine in.

So i pick this 521 up last year in July for $300 in gooding Idaho. it was sitting at a towing yard and the guy wanted it gone other wise he was going to scrap it. The pics looked a hole lot better than it did in person, but the engine wasn't sized and it had a lot of newer parts that were replaced quit a few years ago. It is pretty rusty the bed is shot and there is a hole in the passengers side floor he cut out to keep the rust from spreading. He said he drove it from Mexico to Canada then back to Idaho so its been around the block a few times. the day i brought it back a put it on the fork lift to drain all of the fluids and gas. after a full fluid change and fresh gas and new battery it fired right up on the first crank, i was really suprised that all it needed was fresh gas over 5 years of sitting. after putting air in the tires olny two of the held so i went and got two new tires. They worked great for a wile. then collage started and i brought all of my car down to Sacramento to finish working on them while i attended UTI. this is my pool at the house i stay in. sweet right but any ways back on topic so remember those two old tires i left on the truck yeah one of them blew out driving back from school. the headlight relay stopped working and because its an old relay that i can't find i just wired up two bosh relays and run both high and low beams for added light. the tape is over the high beams to get rid of the glare for the other drivers i pass. the gas pedal started to bend and get caught on the brake pedal any time i went WOT and the first time it got caught it scared the shit out of me a bit. so i just tacked it back in place. the weld are shitty because i had no gas to weld with, they will get better next time. here's the bay before i took the motor out and no i did not paint the valve cover. my ka24de bock i picked up with trans and almost evething need to put it back together for $400 long block assembled freshly rebuild I'm into this motor and trans for $900 total including rebuild and I'm really happy. more pics motor going in as test fit i guess i can't get away from red thing as i bought that intake mani off craiglist for $35. so here I'm am, this covers about 11 months of the datsun i started the ka24de build 1 1/2 months ago and have very limited time to work on it. I go to school Monday thew Friday 12:00pm-8:30pm and work on the weekends 8:00-6:00. but i am taking two weeks off to try to finish this project but I'm running into a ton of problems so i read for motor mounts you can use the bottom half of the 521 mount and the top half of the 240sx mount well i did that and the mounts are about 1'' to narrow so i got these plates made and they work great except the motor sits to high or the trans doesn't go high enough. because the motor and trans wont bolt together. so... I started to cut the trans tunnel and it still wont fit, after looking though a couple other swaps like this i haven't seen any one having to cut up the trans tunnel. I'm using the 240sx s13 transmission and a s14 block. This is my first motor swap like this so i am no expert but somthing doesnt seem right. ideas, comments, tips are appreciated.

I'll start a build thread soon, and as long there aren't any death threats I be in for the long run

ok will do thanks for such a quick response mike, I'm really starting to like this form more

i have a VF40 off a Subaru I'm gonna run 5 lbs on for learning purposes, i want to experiment with E85 and water meth, this motor could grenade on first start up and i wouldn't care less.

this motor will also see boost some day.

and for the second compression ring what should i gap that to, I know it needs to be bigger than the first ring

these are ka24e pistons going into a ka24De blocks compression should be around 11:1

nevermind there are dished, thats the first time i've looked at them in bright light before

I think my compress will be even higher because they don't even have a dish there just flat tops. I'll get some pics up in a few mins here.

It's a stock DE head (I used 46cc for measurements) it hasn't been decked the 89-early90 ka24e Pistons gave me 11.6:1 and the late90-94sh gave me 11.0:1. Compression ratio doesn't matter to much right now for me, but I bought aftermarket stock Pistons and it said (89-94sh ka24e) Pistons so I don't know which ones they are.

I'm building a high compression ka24de i have ka24E pistons so compression will be around 11:1 or 11.6:1 I am wonder if i should gap the ring a little loose than spec because if the extra heat i will be making. spec is .0110-.0205

well i could see a duel cam but the single cams are a bit smaller i think it wouldnt be to bad.

i would look at a full subaru drive train swap like 92-99 impreza legacy EJ18, EJ22, EJ25. I've never seen it done and I really want to do it to my 521 but college happened lol some day I'll do this.