4.0lratsun

i was actually talking about the 15/16 the truck came with a 7/8 and i found that the 1" worked best

ok i fell victim to the exotic thought and simplicity of rear discs so i went and got the trooper set up made brackets and the pedal sucked this isn't my first conversion did my dodge about a year ago and the pedal in that rocks so i did some research and found people were switching to the 7/8 master did it, better but not impressed did some more r&d and found that the trooper has a 1" bore and with slight modification it goes right onto the 620 booster I'm convinced that with braided brake hoses or even new rubber ones that this would be the most positive feeling pedal I've ever felt on a datsun truck also i have not removed the proportioning valve truck stops great in the near future i will be installing toyota 4 piston calipers on the front

if search alot and have come up with nothing much as far as getting traction out of the trucks im thinking about a 4 link from competition engineering but would like to know if any ones done it and if there is a write up about it thanks in advance

efi is the way to go and the old ford stuff is super simple to hook up as long as its EEC-4 after that you get alot of emissions crap im pretty convinced that my stock efi 4.0 will woop on any stock small block with a carb and i get over 20mpg

the only rear i found that was a straight bolt in with out shortening it was a 2wd s 10 and it hardly seemed worth it so i fixed the stocker and my whole set up ended up modular i did it that way on purpose so if i found a nicer 620 i could pretty much shave off some mounts drill a few holes and mount the v6 with only mild tunnel work

ive just fixed this same prob on a 78 kc that i put a 3.55 center out of a car with disc brake rear and all you have to do is take the spacer off the spider shaft of your old center and put it on the shaft of the new center you want to use

well im not sure what there called around the world but were i am their good old Abe lincoln pennies you know the ones that cost more to make than what their worth

well if you use the right v6 you get the best of both although parts cost a little more the 4.0l v6 out of a 90s explorer and a ranger 5speed according to the scale weight i only gained about 200-300lbs i think it was closer to 200 motors rated a 160hp and about 200ft-lbs cold air and a big single tail pipe seemed to wake the motor up and its fuel injected and has no distributor to worry about truck runs good just go to get the rear end happy so it will hold up very simple wiring also about 4-6 wires needed for powers and grounds

the last time i did this i drilled a hole in 2 pennys and they were the perfect fit so give that a try

and i lost an axle in front of drive train it was awsome nut broke and bearing took threads off axle so got it towed to the shop and welded the bearing to the axle so i could get it home

all the 8.8s i found in exploders were about 60" datsun bein about 54 1/4 so they would have to be narrowed but they can be had with discs and lsd

im looking for info on rear ends that are alot stronger and as close to bolt in option as possible according to the numbers im pushing the limits with a stock v6 and ive already had it fail twice and this winter i plan on changing the motor a bit nothing crazy cause having plenty of power and 20mpg on the highway is nice yay for efi well any info would be nice

i have a kaminari fiberglass air dam that is no longer made a box of felts and some seals and a driver and pass side door glass for a 74 260z coupe i don't know if it is specific to the 260 or not i think Ive also got two outside door handles its all bran new ordered from the victoria british catalogue been sitting around and I'm not gonna use any of it Ive got alot in to it and I'm not expecting to get it back but id like to get about 300 out of all of it which is a steal air dam was 400 something i can put up pics when i figure out how to

instead of cutting the truck shifter just get one out of a Z and you have a short uncut shifter

i had a z with the mallory dual point diz and the only thing about it was it was easily adjusted if you rally want the advance curve of the points diz then get a conversion to ditch the points but allow you to use that diz crane make an affordable set up that works good put it on the z and pertronics makes one that simply replaces the points