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Member Since 10 Jun 2009
Offline Last Active Aug 14 2017 05:01 PM

#1430818 where can i buy a put on bed liner for my 85 nissan 720

Posted by Logical1 on 29 October 2016 - 06:50 PM

I have a really nice bedliner on my 81' 720 diesel that just died and I would be willing to part with it but shipping to Hawaii is going to be prohibitively expensive. If you are die hard interested I can send you pics, Pm me.

#1426552 My 81' 720 Daily Diesel Died, Researching Options

Posted by Logical1 on 13 October 2016 - 12:33 PM

Been a while Ratto's! I picked up a 81' 720 Diesel with the SD22 about 2 years ago. It was a smokey slow bitch but I loved her dearly. I commute crazy miles for work and just after I hit 200k on the odometer she started knocking really badly. (yes I know its a diesel & I kept fresh oil and water in it) It lost about half its power, was a bitch to start and was smoking like a chimney, Checked the oil and water and neither had any contamination. It wasn't burning oil that much faster that it had been over the years and not over heating. This led me to think the rings had failed and it just wasn't reaching the compression it needed. I don't think its the head gasket but I ordered one anyway (hasn't arrived yet).  From my research the 81 SD22 has 3 rings on the pistons and I haven't been able to find a 3 ring kit. However Even If I could I don't have the time to do a full rebuild right now. That being said I loved the diesel for the mileage even though it was the slowest beast ever. I wouldn't mind re-building the diesel in the future...However I need to get this truck back on the road asap, so some questions:


1. Does a L-Series bolt into the 720? not looking to use the diesel trans, wondering if I can pick up a L-series engine/tranny and drop it in. (motor mounts?)


2. If a L-series bolts up, is there a specific oil pan for the fit? the sd22 has a raised part in the middle of the pan for the crossmember.


3. If the L-series bolts up , is there a tranny that doesn't require driveline alteration? 


4. I know the napz motors are normally in these trucks, Not a huge fan of the napz series. is there any other motors that bolt in?


5. Is it worth it to hold onto the SD22 and rebuild it? seems like parts are becoming unobtanium these days.


I'm looking for the easiest, cheapest, fastest route to a work truck. Should I try and resurrect the 720 or just find a cheap 620 and start back into my comfort zone of Gasoline and older models ;)


#1147076 (INSOMNIACS) balls deep.

Posted by Logical1 on 25 September 2014 - 08:50 AM







#1138676 Sightings

Posted by Logical1 on 05 September 2014 - 08:00 AM

Saw a lime Green Z (240/260 looking) pulled over with sex lights behind them on highway 18 by Auburn last night around 9'ish. Hope they were gentle! 

#1137473 Sightings

Posted by Logical1 on 02 September 2014 - 01:03 PM

I don't know what it is about them planes(DC3), but I like them, from what I have heard, they were a bitch to fly.





Whats not to love about two epic rotary engines and all that polished metal!

#1124492 Quick Diesel Help (81' 720 SD22)

Posted by Logical1 on 29 July 2014 - 08:26 PM

So, changed both fuel filters and so far so good...just got to Portland and still running strong. Thank you everyone for your help!

#1096415 260z Manual Transmission Conversion

Posted by Logical1 on 20 May 2014 - 12:28 PM

Hey, so my buddy and I just completed this exact same conversion, You are on the right track for sure, We swapped out the 3.5diff with a 3.7 subaru posi. This really made the car alot more fun to drive and still had perfect rpm's for highway cruzing, (16'" wheels). You will also need the master cylinder and slave cylinder. We got a hardline ffrom another donor car but there is also a guy on here that makes nice full stainless braided softlines for similar conversions. We found a a 240z pedal box to use the parts, the clutch pedal should bolt up into your current rig, it is just missing the stuff for the clutch. The console in the car worked just fine with some slight modification around the shift lever to give it a touch more room. I can get more in depth if your are interested, just let me know :) Also I think there are subtle differences in early and late model 260's, just something to be aware of. Whatever you do, dont give up on the swap. After we finished his car, it was a whole new beast and WAY more fun!

#1069741 POST-AS(s)

Posted by Logical1 on 22 March 2014 - 09:12 PM


#1053248 POST-AS(s)

Posted by Logical1 on 17 February 2014 - 07:04 PM


I can die happy now...

#1040445 610 vs 510 parts

Posted by Logical1 on 24 January 2014 - 12:34 PM

This may only be me, but it sounds like he curious which 510 suspension parts would be able to bolt up to the his 610... Thus restoring his 610, Easy killers!

#1038191 Help Carbing a KA24de in a datsun 1978 620 kc

Posted by Logical1 on 20 January 2014 - 02:09 PM

Putting carbs on The 240sx dual cam engine takes serious fabrication and know-how(tig welding the the ka dizzy bottom end to the L series matchbox dizzy) that being said, It has been done... A member here named duke made it happen. I can't find the build thread but here is some decent pictures of his setup:


This guy is hoping for the same setup and has the best Intake manifold I have seen for the dual cam.


I am currently building a R1 carbbed KA24de with the 1999-2004 frontier ka. This is the easiest option IMO. The L series matchbox bolts right up in similar fashion to the single cam KA. This is where is I learned about that:


Just found dukes build:


Hope this helps!

#984431 510 Frank & friends epic end of summer garage sale!

Posted by Logical1 on 22 September 2013 - 11:07 AM

Pretty slow today, my whole table free today otherwise it is going to the scrapper :( I'd rather see these parts get used! Some free parts:

L20 block
L20 crank
L16 crank
2x L24 (6cyl) cranks
Balanced L16 pistons
L24 full head
L24 no smog exhaust manifold
Multiple L series valve covers
Several timing covers
Several flywheels
Dozens of starters
2x w58 heads sans cams

Please come and make use of these parts before the junker gets them!

As for short shaft doglegs I have The complete rear (functional) tailshaft all you would need is the bell housing from another L series tranny.

#984129 510 Frank & friends epic end of summer garage sale!

Posted by Logical1 on 21 September 2013 - 10:31 AM

Final weekend! We are here all day. EVERY Person who Shows up gets a free L series part off my table!

#979940 Replace PL510 Rear Wheel Bearings, without a press!

Posted by Logical1 on 11 September 2013 - 08:39 PM

Part II




A: Once both inner bearings are knocked in, wait a bit for temperatures to equalize (in the hub bore and bearings) and then take the spacers (2" steel tubes) and coat the interior side with high temp bearing grease. Then get a nice thick glob and put it on one outer side of the the spacer. Try to glob it on one spot of the outer side of this spacer, then carefully set this into the inner space of the wheel hub (between the bearings) The big glob of grease should hold up (line up) the spacer for when you knock your shaft though ;)

B: Warm up the outer part of the hub bore with the torch (warm not hot [dont want to melt the grease on the spacer down ether]) Then grab a bearing from the freezer and knock it in with the sanded bearing. Don't be afraid to knock it good with the 5lb hammer as long as you have the sanded bearing covering the new bearing. Rinse and Repeat.

C: After the bearings have been knocked in on both sides, Wait for the temp to equalize again. While waiting, take your wheel hub spindles and put them in the freezer & enjoy a sammich.

D: With the hub bore, bearings, & trailing arms equalized at temp. Take one hub shaft out of the freezer, (with spacer on closest to the hub) spray a little Teflon lube or grease on the entire shaft and knock into the bearings from the outside while the shaft is still cold with a wood block and the 5lb hammer. Mine knocked into both bearings (and through the spacer) quick and easy. After Knocking into the bearings, take a quick look at the inner bearing and check that it hasn't been pushed out. If so, use your cut outer bearing race to knock it back in. Rinse and repeat.





A: Once both hubs are knocked in, it should look like the image above. Reattach your breaker bar wheel hub holder, slide the stubaxle flange onto the axle shaft, and replace the washer & the new nylock nut. 

B: Thread the nylock nut down by hand to make sure it threads correctly and then hit it with the air ratchet to lock that beast down. Alot of people think you should torque the crap out of it. I think it should just be torqued until tight with the nylock biting on the stud fully.

C: Spin your hubs and make sure they spin smoothly, sometimes you can damage one of the dust flanges and they will rub slightly. Try to repair them before installation but if they rub slightly, don't worry it will find its happy place ;)

D: re-attach your half shafts & wheels, Lower your baby down & take her for a quick spin. Go back to your garage and check lug nuts, half shaft bolts and hub temp. Hopefully everything is happy and you are now set for another 40 years!




#979839 Replace PL510 Rear Wheel Bearings, without a press!

Posted by Logical1 on 11 September 2013 - 05:58 PM

I will be adding and editing this post for the next day as work permits. This is quite the process, Thanks for bearing with me ;)


I noticed some play in my rear wheel bearings in my Dime, So I scoured the net for a guide to help me with this... I ended up finding a few threads here and there about it but nothing encompassing the entire process. Armed with the info from several threads on misc forums and some first hand knowledge from Frank I set forth to replace mine and do a write up on how it was accomplished! I ended up being able to replace the bearings without removing the control arms or using a press which was a huge bonus in my book. Here is how it went:


Tools needed:

Decent socket set (larger style helps, the main nut is 1.125")

Box end wrenches 14mm x 2

5lb hammer

Grinder with skinny cut-off wheel or equivalent 

1/2" Air ratchet or huge breaker bar

Straight (slotted) screw driver to abuse

PB blaster

Drill gun & bits

2'x2" pipe or other hard bar of steel

medium nail set or other hard steel punch

Duct tape



Parts needed: 

4x Bearings

2x Giant Nylock Nuts

Bearing grease



A: First off, lift the rear of your Dime, set on stands and block the front wheels.

B: Leave the ebrake off and in neutral.

C: Get under the back once its secure and remove the half shaft bolts that connect to the wheel hubs (4 custom bolts with jam nuts, dont loose these!)






A: Once your half shafts are disconnected from your wheel hubs you need to fab up your wheel stop with a piece of breaker bar or other suitable material to stop the wheel hub from spinning when you crank on it shortly. I used a piece of 2" steel pipe with holes drilled in that fit onto my wheel studs. (see pictures)

B: Soak the large nut in PB blaster or other suitable penetrating oil.

C: Cut out the 'peened' spots on the holder nut as shown in the pictures. Your goal is just to free up the flat 'crimped' spots on the nut to enable remove without destroying the threads on the hub shaft.







A. Once you have cut your nuts ( :rofl: ) I recommend soaking them with PB blaster again.

B: Attach your hub holder as pictured above and if you left your drums on (ONLY IF THEY ARE ON) set you ebrake.

C: Grab your air ratchet and attempt to zip those nuts off. (Make sure your hub holder is set the right way) if no mega air ratchet is available, Use as large of socket wrench you can get on the nut with a huge breaker bar and crack the nuts loose.

D: Once the nuts are off, pull out the stub axles and use your hard steel punch & 5lb hammer to knock the hub shaft out (from the inside out) using the dimple shown above (dont hit the hub shaft directly!) Thanks to tycot1 on the realm.

D: The wheel spindle, outer bearing and wheel hub should knock out without much work. I then used my 2" breaker bar to knock the inner bearing out. (From the outside in)

E: You should end up with 2 wheel spindle hubs with 1 bearing left on each, 2 loose old bearings you knocked out, 2 large nuts & a washer that you cut and zipped off, 2 spacers that fit between the bearings: (pictured are the wheel shafts without the bearing that is still on.)





A. Hopefully with the help of a friend use a piece of angle iron or other flat bar steel wedged between the bearing and the wheel hub to knock the remaining bearing off. (I didnt get pictures of this but I will add some from my friends car that we are working on soon)

B: Clean the crap out of the hub shaft with a wire wheel, be sure to keep the spacer that was right next to the hub on the outer side of the last bearing.

C: Acquire the large nylock nuts and replacement wheel bearings

D: Clean out your wheel hub bores and re-coat with a LIGHT oil.

E: Put all 4 bearings in your freezer.

F: Take one of the better old bearings you removed and sand down the outer race 'ring' smoothly as possible while taking as much material off that you can stand to grind off while keeping it even around the circumference and not completely destroying the outer ring. This a modified technique Thanks to thisismatt for the idea about cutting the outer race to use as a punch to put the new bearings in. You are going to be using this modified bearing that is slightly smaller to knock the new bearings in. If you dont have a grinder, I would use the old bearing as is to knock the bearing in until flush then use an outer bearing race that has been cut to knock them in the rest of the way. You do this so you can still remove the modified bearing or the outer race when you have punched the new bearing in to its home.

G: With the info above start with the inner bearings first. Do one side at a time. I warmed the wheel hub bores with a torch until warm to the touch (not hot) Grabbed one of my bearings from the freezer and knocked it into the inner wheel hub bore with the modified bearing while the new bearing was ice cold and the wheel hub was warm. Rinse and repeat on the other inner side.



End Part 1...Stay tuned!