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Logical1

Member Since 10 Jun 2009
Offline Last Active Oct 11 2017 01:23 PM
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#1512341 Resurrecting an abused 84' 4x4

Posted by Logical1 on 24 August 2017 - 09:32 AM

Hey all, So picked up a 84' 720 4x4 a few months ago for cheap. it barely ran at the time, but the price was unbeatable! I got her home went to work on her!

 

She had no power, sticky brakes, bad alignment, FUBAR electrical and misc other issues. I tackled the engine first, found out it had the 2.0 mileage option engine with a 2.4 head, pulled the head off and found an obviously blown head gasket and copious amount of stop leak in the coolant passages. Figured out the previous owner had put the 2.2-2.4 head gasket on and tried to make it work with all that stop leak. The head was also beat to shit with cracked valves and score marks on the cam journals. I had a z22 sitting around so I pulled the head off it, the intake off the 2.4 head, hogged out the head ports on the 2.2 head to match the 2.4 intake, slapped a brand new weber on and put her back together. Ran amazingly better! however it was randomly not getting spark do to the previous owners wire hack. I have fully re-wired several other Datsuns with L-motors and KA swaps, However this is my first foray into the napz . I did a bunch of research via Ratsun and the net in general. Via a post about wiring a napz into 510 frame by Datzenmike on the realm, I found the minimum wiring to run the engine:

 

Re: z24 ignition ?s how do i wire up a z24 in a 510

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Postby datzenmike ยป 19 Apr 2011 12:52

E-Blue....to neg side of Ex coil.
B-Black/white to positive side of intake coil. This is where it gets it's switched 12 volt source.
C-White.....plugin for shutting off exhaust side plugs plugs
I-Red....to negative side of intake coil.
 
Based on this list of connections from the distributor, I wired it up accordingly (without using the white wire obviously because of the weber) and ran switched 12v power to the positive side of both coils and tied into the black/white wire to power the dizzy. Now because the harness is FUBAR I am only using my fresh new wiring and so the only wire going to the ignition besides the ones coming out of the dizzy and connecting to the coils, is the 12v switched power. Switched on power to the ignition and turned her over. HOLY MOLY! purred like a kitten on catnip! was, stoked and took her out for a drive. went about 20 miles and got back home, popped the hood, no hot wires, ran nice cool in the lower half of the temp gauge and didn't burn a drop of oil or coolant. However on a whim i touched the coils and they were quite warm, not BURNING hot, but WARM for sure. If I remember right non electronic or points coils will over heat if exposed to full 12v. Also, next to the coils tied into the original hacked harness was a little black plug that i looked up the part number and it turns out to be a Nissan ignition condenser. I thought condensers were only for points? Do I need to use the condenser inline somewhere? I figured the 84' nissan's had electronic ignition as they first started in the late 70's trucks. Anyway, any info would be helpfull and more pics and curious fixes to come!
 



#1430818 where can i buy a put on bed liner for my 85 nissan 720

Posted by Logical1 on 29 October 2016 - 06:50 PM

I have a really nice bedliner on my 81' 720 diesel that just died and I would be willing to part with it but shipping to Hawaii is going to be prohibitively expensive. If you are die hard interested I can send you pics, Pm me.




#1426552 My 81' 720 Daily Diesel Died, Researching Options

Posted by Logical1 on 13 October 2016 - 12:33 PM

Been a while Ratto's! I picked up a 81' 720 Diesel with the SD22 about 2 years ago. It was a smokey slow bitch but I loved her dearly. I commute crazy miles for work and just after I hit 200k on the odometer she started knocking really badly. (yes I know its a diesel & I kept fresh oil and water in it) It lost about half its power, was a bitch to start and was smoking like a chimney, Checked the oil and water and neither had any contamination. It wasn't burning oil that much faster that it had been over the years and not over heating. This led me to think the rings had failed and it just wasn't reaching the compression it needed. I don't think its the head gasket but I ordered one anyway (hasn't arrived yet).  From my research the 81 SD22 has 3 rings on the pistons and I haven't been able to find a 3 ring kit. However Even If I could I don't have the time to do a full rebuild right now. That being said I loved the diesel for the mileage even though it was the slowest beast ever. I wouldn't mind re-building the diesel in the future...However I need to get this truck back on the road asap, so some questions:

 

1. Does a L-Series bolt into the 720? not looking to use the diesel trans, wondering if I can pick up a L-series engine/tranny and drop it in. (motor mounts?)

 

2. If a L-series bolts up, is there a specific oil pan for the fit? the sd22 has a raised part in the middle of the pan for the crossmember.

 

3. If the L-series bolts up , is there a tranny that doesn't require driveline alteration? 

 

4. I know the napz motors are normally in these trucks, Not a huge fan of the napz series. is there any other motors that bolt in?

 

5. Is it worth it to hold onto the SD22 and rebuild it? seems like parts are becoming unobtanium these days.

 

I'm looking for the easiest, cheapest, fastest route to a work truck. Should I try and resurrect the 720 or just find a cheap 620 and start back into my comfort zone of Gasoline and older models ;)

 




#1147076 (INSOMNIACS) balls deep.

Posted by Logical1 on 25 September 2014 - 08:50 AM

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#1138676 Sightings

Posted by Logical1 on 05 September 2014 - 08:00 AM

Saw a lime Green Z (240/260 looking) pulled over with sex lights behind them on highway 18 by Auburn last night around 9'ish. Hope they were gentle! 




#1137473 Sightings

Posted by Logical1 on 02 September 2014 - 01:03 PM

I don't know what it is about them planes(DC3), but I like them, from what I have heard, they were a bitch to fly.

 

 

 

 

Whats not to love about two epic rotary engines and all that polished metal!




#1124492 Quick Diesel Help (81' 720 SD22)

Posted by Logical1 on 29 July 2014 - 08:26 PM

So, changed both fuel filters and so far so good...just got to Portland and still running strong. Thank you everyone for your help!


#1096415 260z Manual Transmission Conversion

Posted by Logical1 on 20 May 2014 - 12:28 PM

Hey, so my buddy and I just completed this exact same conversion, You are on the right track for sure, We swapped out the 3.5diff with a 3.7 subaru posi. This really made the car alot more fun to drive and still had perfect rpm's for highway cruzing, (16'" wheels). You will also need the master cylinder and slave cylinder. We got a hardline ffrom another donor car but there is also a guy on here that makes nice full stainless braided softlines for similar conversions. We found a a 240z pedal box to use the parts, the clutch pedal should bolt up into your current rig, it is just missing the stuff for the clutch. The console in the car worked just fine with some slight modification around the shift lever to give it a touch more room. I can get more in depth if your are interested, just let me know :) Also I think there are subtle differences in early and late model 260's, just something to be aware of. Whatever you do, dont give up on the swap. After we finished his car, it was a whole new beast and WAY more fun!




#1069741 POST-AS(s)

Posted by Logical1 on 22 March 2014 - 09:12 PM

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#1053248 POST-AS(s)

Posted by Logical1 on 17 February 2014 - 07:04 PM

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I can die happy now...


#1040445 610 vs 510 parts

Posted by Logical1 on 24 January 2014 - 12:34 PM

This may only be me, but it sounds like he curious which 510 suspension parts would be able to bolt up to the his 610... Thus restoring his 610, Easy killers!




#1038191 Help Carbing a KA24de in a datsun 1978 620 kc

Posted by Logical1 on 20 January 2014 - 02:09 PM

Putting carbs on The 240sx dual cam engine takes serious fabrication and know-how(tig welding the the ka dizzy bottom end to the L series matchbox dizzy) that being said, It has been done... A member here named duke made it happen. I can't find the build thread but here is some decent pictures of his setup:

http://community.rat...-custom-header/

This guy is hoping for the same setup and has the best Intake manifold I have seen for the dual cam.

http://community.rat...ith-carbs-help/

I am currently building a R1 carbbed KA24de with the 1999-2004 frontier ka. This is the easiest option IMO. The L series matchbox bolts right up in similar fashion to the single cam KA. This is where is I learned about that:

http://community.rat...or-carb-lovers/

Just found dukes build:

http://www.the510rea...=4712&start=390

Hope this helps!


#984431 510 Frank & friends epic end of summer garage sale!

Posted by Logical1 on 22 September 2013 - 11:07 AM

Pretty slow today, my whole table free today otherwise it is going to the scrapper :( I'd rather see these parts get used! Some free parts:

L20 block
L20 crank
L16 crank
2x L24 (6cyl) cranks
Balanced L16 pistons
L24 full head
L24 no smog exhaust manifold
Multiple L series valve covers
Several timing covers
Several flywheels
Dozens of starters
2x w58 heads sans cams


Please come and make use of these parts before the junker gets them!

As for short shaft doglegs I have The complete rear (functional) tailshaft all you would need is the bell housing from another L series tranny.


#984129 510 Frank & friends epic end of summer garage sale!

Posted by Logical1 on 21 September 2013 - 10:31 AM

Final weekend! We are here all day. EVERY Person who Shows up gets a free L series part off my table!


#979940 Replace PL510 Rear Wheel Bearings, without a press!

Posted by Logical1 on 11 September 2013 - 08:39 PM

Part II

 

5: 

 

A: Once both inner bearings are knocked in, wait a bit for temperatures to equalize (in the hub bore and bearings) and then take the spacers (2" steel tubes) and coat the interior side with high temp bearing grease. Then get a nice thick glob and put it on one outer side of the the spacer. Try to glob it on one spot of the outer side of this spacer, then carefully set this into the inner space of the wheel hub (between the bearings) The big glob of grease should hold up (line up) the spacer for when you knock your shaft though ;)

B: Warm up the outer part of the hub bore with the torch (warm not hot [dont want to melt the grease on the spacer down ether]) Then grab a bearing from the freezer and knock it in with the sanded bearing. Don't be afraid to knock it good with the 5lb hammer as long as you have the sanded bearing covering the new bearing. Rinse and Repeat.

C: After the bearings have been knocked in on both sides, Wait for the temp to equalize again. While waiting, take your wheel hub spindles and put them in the freezer & enjoy a sammich.

D: With the hub bore, bearings, & trailing arms equalized at temp. Take one hub shaft out of the freezer, (with spacer on closest to the hub) spray a little Teflon lube or grease on the entire shaft and knock into the bearings from the outside while the shaft is still cold with a wood block and the 5lb hammer. Mine knocked into both bearings (and through the spacer) quick and easy. After Knocking into the bearings, take a quick look at the inner bearing and check that it hasn't been pushed out. If so, use your cut outer bearing race to knock it back in. Rinse and repeat.

bear011.jpg

 

6:

 

A: Once both hubs are knocked in, it should look like the image above. Reattach your breaker bar wheel hub holder, slide the stubaxle flange onto the axle shaft, and replace the washer & the new nylock nut. 

B: Thread the nylock nut down by hand to make sure it threads correctly and then hit it with the air ratchet to lock that beast down. Alot of people think you should torque the crap out of it. I think it should just be torqued until tight with the nylock biting on the stud fully.

C: Spin your hubs and make sure they spin smoothly, sometimes you can damage one of the dust flanges and they will rub slightly. Try to repair them before installation but if they rub slightly, don't worry it will find its happy place ;)

D: re-attach your half shafts & wheels, Lower your baby down & take her for a quick spin. Go back to your garage and check lug nuts, half shaft bolts and hub temp. Hopefully everything is happy and you are now set for another 40 years!

 

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