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pwrcat4000

Member Since 03 Jul 2013
Offline Last Active Nov 18 2017 05:37 PM
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#1529643 521 Front end repair

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 16 November 2017 - 09:09 AM

mklotz70
Thanks for the link to the owners manual that was awesome!

 


#1529169 521 Front end repair

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 14 November 2017 - 11:52 AM

tn_full_front_end.jpg
Was told by the alignment shop I need

Idler arm

Upper control arm

and strut rod bushings.

I am not sure if it is the right terminology 

 

I found 2  the Idler Rock auto

 

MEVOTECH MS30909 Supreme Info

Front
 
MOOG K9058 {#48530B2000, 48530B9510} Info

 

I found Control Arm Bushings

MOOG K9207 {#5451908700} Package Quantity As Shown In Image Info

Front Upper Outer; Contains Driver And Passenger Side Bushings
 
Strut rod bushings not showing on rock auto
are these the 2 bushings that are under the front bumper
tn_full_front_rods.jpg

 
 
This suspension is different than any thing I am used to (seems like a trend)
I looked at an old post but all the Photo bucket pictures are gone (also seems like a trend)

 



#1529163 low oil pressure at start

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 14 November 2017 - 11:24 AM

Sorry I took so long to get back to you all the diesel oil and a new filter fixed it no rattle at all and no light Fixed it all for under $30 thanks to all for futer referance to anyone on this thread I used the standard O'Riley filter MGL51515 and Valvoline Diesel Blue 15W40.




#1525955 low oil pressure at start

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 28 October 2017 - 06:49 PM

Well this has been very informative as always you all are the best and I really like to hear your responses.
 

I have noise for maybe 1 sec definitely valve train sounds like the front of the engine at start regardless of cold/hot
The noise stops when the idiot light goes off I don't have a mechanical gauge
I don't rev the engine or try to drive or anything just let it idle
 

i change the oil about every 3-4k or when i install a different motor whichever comes first

I have been using Oriley SAE30 (sounds like this is not advised)
I just use the O'Riley MicroGard - Oil Filter Anti-Drainback Valve Included (maybe i should be using a wix or a mobile one)

So will a new oil pump help with start up pressure
if yes I am looking at these

ENGINETECH EP094
https://www.rockauto...1208977&jsn=679

HITACHI OUP0023 {#1501040F00A}
https://www.rockauto...jsn=679&jsn=679
 

DNJ (cheapest)
https://www.ebay.com...8E/302000794790




#1525775 low oil pressure at start

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 27 October 2017 - 09:59 AM

I am having low oil pressure at start up I can hear the valve train taping for about 3 seconds then the pressure comes up I am thinking about replacing the oil pump I believe it is on the right side of my 1077 L20b?

What do you all recommend?

Other problems
Still getting hot when I turn it off (have not had time to check the thermostat for the bypass hole)
It still runs over the mark when I am driving and if I am in a hurry it will build heat.
I have played with the timing and it is better but still over the line on temp.
These two problems are at least going to reduce the life of the engine at worst break it.




#1525735 Installing single Din aftermarket radio

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 27 October 2017 - 08:05 AM

tn_full_radio.jpg

It aint pretty but I am really happy with the way it works (just like the rest of the truck) the hands-free work pretty good considering the noise in the truck when driving!
speakers.jpg
Holes were all ready there upgraded the broke old ones for these!
 




#1524845 Installing single Din aftermarket radio

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 20 October 2017 - 07:19 PM

Just need fan and headlight they don't have to be Datsun or factory correct just need something that works I thought about maybe just making some out of wood or something the real pain in the ass is the fan knob not being there I will try to post a pic of my $20 radio installation later


#1524507 Installing single Din aftermarket radio

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 19 October 2017 - 08:56 AM

i know this is off topic.

Seeing that install reminds me, where do you get control knobs for the fan lights windshield wipers ect are they available in the aftermarket?

Right now I have hazard knob on the headlights lights choke knob on the wipers and rubber bands on the fan post. Wen to electric choke so nothing there.




#1524503 Installing single Din aftermarket radio

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 19 October 2017 - 08:51 AM

LoL, God works in mysterious ways......

Maybe it's a sign LOL




#1524303 Installing single Din aftermarket radio

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 18 October 2017 - 11:53 AM

As some of you know.  I use my truck all the time. I found a NOS, 2 post, analog radio and it has been "working ok" but constantly looses tune.  Now the tuner knob is slipping so all I can tune to is the religious radio station and the classics.
I want to install a digital tuned radio with BT for convenience sake.
I am broke as hell, and not wanting to spend more than $40 so I was looking at this unit

I mainly listen to am/fm.
I almost never stream from my android due to data costs
It would be nice to have BT for calls, since i use the truck so much.

I am going to cut the dash the stock hole has already been cut once and is pretty diced up it still has the post holes.
I also am irritated that I am cutting the dash I can live with myself though.
my questions to those who have done this

1. is there enough room in the stock dash? I already have a radio form the 80's in there it just wont tune.

2. how did you mount your radio in the stock dash?
3. Antenna issues with modern radio?

4. Engine noise issues (running a 1979 dizzy)
 

Thanks Ratonians

 




#1422734 Not so RAD!

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 30 September 2016 - 10:07 AM

seems to have "fixed it self" now that its 75 instead of 105 outside. LOL




#1421618 Not so RAD!

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 26 September 2016 - 06:47 PM

I'll check it out I don't remember if my stat  has that thanks for the picture!




#1421557 Not so RAD!

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 26 September 2016 - 03:48 PM

The fan shroud is important.   When the truck is not moving, it allows more air to be sucked through the radiator.  Without the fan shroud, a lot of the air the fan moves just circles around the fan blade tips, without being pulled past the radiator.

If you have a catch can for the radiator, and a radiator cap that allows coolant to moves in and out of the radiator, as it contracts, and expands, that will increase the efficiency of the radiator.

Check the ignition timing.  Slightly retarded timing exposes more cylinder walls to combustion heat, and then that energy just goes into the coolant, instead of moving the truck.

If the truck is running too warm, turning on the heater helps cool the engine.  The heater is just another radiator.

I would also do a good flush of the cooling system.  Remove the block drain plug above the starter, remove the thermostat.   Remove the radiator, put the radiator hoses back on the block.  Fill the block through the lower radiator hose, with a garden hose, and when the block is full, and water comes out the top rad hose, blow compressed air into the block drain plug hole.  Repeat this process until the water comes out clean.   Do the same process with the radiator, blowing air into the radiator drain hole.   You can also partially fill the radiator, when it is out of the truck, and shake it vigorously, to help dislodge crap inside it.  Flush the heater too.   This keeps the heater valve turning easily.  

Refill the radiator with good antifreeze.  I have found the most economical place to get antifreeze is Walmart, even the mini neighborhood Walmarts have good name brand antifreeze, and a few aisles over you can get distilled water to mix with the antifreeze.    If you have nothing to mix it in, buy one gallon of premixed antifreeze, then use that empty bottle to mix a half gallon of full strength antifreeze, with a half gallon of distilled water.   Buying a gallon of 50/50 mix, and a gallon of full strength antifreeze, and two gallons of distilled water gives you three gallons of coolant.   The engine, radiator, and heater take about two gallons, and you have a third gallon to top off the cooling system later.

 

It is running hot at idle, but just  a little bit.

When I drive the truck it continues to build heat, it never gets to the overheat line but gets about half way to the overheat mark.

I have checked the coolant before I start in the morning (FYI I check all the fluids every morning before I drive the truck)

I have considered a catch can don't know why it does not have one stock? 

Timing is retarded 10 BTDC

I thought that this was the recommended timing. I see your point though.

I think it has to be the radiator since it is the same problem as my other motor and it is the only thing than has not changed

 

My heating "woes" sound exactly like what you describe. Where you say your temp needle is...is only about 190*. Not hot at all. 

 

 

I talked at length about this with Wayno when I was at the Blue Lake show and on the NWD forum with him leading up to the show. 

For that show, I drove 240 miles straight at 60-75mph then came to a dead stop when I hit Portland rush hour traffic. 

Needle was a tick or two past the mark on gauge. Again...that's about 190*. When stopped, it climbed to 75% until I started rolling/applying gas to rev.

 

I have a 521, stock L16, 4 blade fan, fan shroud, 185* stat with jiggle valve cut out and hole enlarged. 

I also had an intake leak due to my carb mounting bolts/adapter for Weber being loose. Those I did not know at the time; unknown lean condition.

 

 

Overthinking it. Worrying more. 

 

 

 

 

Get a laser temp gun from Harbor Freight($10) to verify temps. 

I will also be installing AUX gauges over the winter. Maybe installing a 160* stat like Hainz has suggested as well. 

 

"stat with jiggle valve cut out" not sure I understand what you mean

Temp gun is on my wish list maybe next paycheck :)

 




#1420584 Not so RAD!

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 23 September 2016 - 12:40 AM

Heat is what killed my last L20B  (dropped the valve seats out of the head)

Currently I run about 1/8" over the black line if I drive normally on a hot day, but when i turn it off  it goes way high (no circulating coolant)  so I leave it running at idle when parked  which has been working and it not optimal.

The only thing that I have not changed is the rad.

When I run a garden hose, on the rad when its hot, it drops the temp to the black line at idle.  If I drive it for a while (1 hour or more) it continues to build heat, but it never gets to the red.

 

I should have mentioned before but I am running the L20B stock water pump with the fan/clutched and no shroud.

When I burned down my last L20b I was using the L16 water pump and the non clutched fan with the shroud. (still smoked the valve seats)

 

I have to think it is the radiator I have had it professionally cleaned and leaks repaired back in 2012.

"Winter is coming" and it will probably be a non-issue soon, still I would like to correct the hot running I am having now (at 100+ atmospheric temperature.)

It has to be the radiator! That is the only variable in the system that has not changed?




#1420278 Not so RAD!

Posted by pwrcat4000 on 22 September 2016 - 06:39 AM

So back moving again thanks all

I am having a bit of a cooling problem that I have diagnosed to the 45 year old radiator So what are my options it looks like 510 rads are cheaper than 521 rads.

Has any one researched option's on what works.

I know my 620 rad from the parts truck wont fit with out a lot of mods. 

I am driving the 521 daily.  (well I want to)

 

Things I have already done

Checked coolant (someone would have said it)

New waterpump

New 190 thermostat

Adjust timing to 10 deg BTDC

Adjusted valves

Switched from the L16 Carb and intake to the L20B (though it might me too lean)