Datsun-San

Hey thanks! I'd be very grateful if you could!

My car is a November '73. But as it looks, the 240z window regulators don't match to that door.

The shape of the 260z regulator out of my car looks much closer to that of a 280z. The longer crank spline, square mounting piece, and lack of a hole between that spline and the spring seem to indicate this. The other regulator looks like that out of the 70-73 240. But I'm still iffy as to whether a 280z regulator would be compatible as the window design changed in '76 for 280s. The more you now I guess... O_o;

The one on the left is the one that came out of the car. We tried to fit the one on the right and the mounting screw holes don't match up. Let alone getting the thing down into the door. The shape is totally off. I checked around for the part numbers, but to no avail in comparing the early '74 regulator design to anything else. The shape of the 260z regulator out of my car looks much closer to that of a 280z. The longer crank spline, square mounting piece, and lack of a hole between that spline and the spring seem to indicate this. The other regulator looks like that out of the 70-73 240. But I'm still iffy as to whether a 280z regulator would be compatible as the window design changed in '76 for 280s. That and the part numbers on the arms are all over the place. Numbers differed for each example I looked at. The more you know I guess... O_o;

That glitter is beautiful...

So what I know is that the two types of regulators I have (the original versus the ones I picked up) have a different shape and measurements from one another. The part numbers are also different. The original is marked "3-12-1RH", while the other regulator is marked "2-10-2RH". I'm guessing the regulators I picked up are from a later 260z/280z and were mis-advertised as being for an earlier 260. Easy mistake to make if one doesn't know model changes, but it is my fault for not comparing the regulators in the first place. Anyway, I've included pics of the two parts side by side, the original is to the left while the replacement is to the right. Thanks for getting back to me! Note the distance between the holes for the screws.

Hey guys, I decided to mount whitewalls on my roadster's fresh powdercoated rims about 2 or so months ago, and had to do an interesting search to find manufacturers (that weren't pricey as hell cokers lol) that still produced whitewall models for a reasonable price. I wound up on lowrider forums (of all places) and found interesting discussions that tallied who still made whitewalls and what the price ranges were for various sets. In the end I settled on some sweet Bridgestone Insignia SE200s (P185/70R-14) that have a similar to look to the original band thickness on the original Bridgestone spare I have. Anyway, I was curious to know if anyone here has had similar experiences finding tires that give the period look to their roadsters. I'll throw some pics up as well, so let me know what you think!

I'm pretty desperate for a passenger side window regulator for my '74 260Z. I recently picked up what I believe now to be a late 260 or 280Z regulator (listed as being for 260Zs in general) which is too wide to fit down the channel into the door. At the moment, I'm relying on the Z as a daily driver, and have to drive with the window wedged by the classic handy block of wood. Even then the window is still 1/2-1" open. As winter rapidly descends on us, I'd like to be able to keep the interior (and its occupants) away from the exposure of the elements and instead focus on other repairs that need doing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Meanwhile at O'Reilly's auto parts in Kenmore, it seems the whole crew working there owns a Z...

Seeking a 260z passenger side window winding mechanism to repair the door on my own Z. I'd be happy with an entire door to dismantle as well.

Translated from the linked ad: "datsun 1500 nissan bluebird 98 the car is a bullet, glass fiber tuning, subaru tail lights neon blue print, radio with auxiliary input sport rims 15 magnecio rings, and review soat tecnincah June 2012 till I see cualkier ask here to send my mail, or calls from early morning Tuesday 21 q the number shown above, interested the price is $ 1400 to try .. Jordan .. thanks" The fact that the interior is boy racer yellow just puts the icing on the cake for me. :sick: Imagine what the rear end must look like! :lol:

That looks really nasty! The important thing of course though is that you're okay. Do you know whether or not that body is straight after that impact? It looks to have been quite a shunt, what with the crushed accelerator pedal and all, so my fear is that the suspension and chassis may have been damaged and not just the fenders, valence, and hood up front. I know when I had a smack up in my Roadster, we were fearful that the chassis may might have bent. If that is the case, its a tedious process trying to salvage and restore. Anyway, apart from that, it looks in decent shape otherwise. Not trying to give the wrong vibes here, and I wish you the best of luck selling her. If you end up running into trouble getting it sold though, there are definitely some interior and exterior parts I'd definitely be interested in. Don't really want to say that because I know I'd want the car to go in one piece, but just throwing it out there if you want to consider!

Alright, so the problem was solved as of earlier this evening. We swapped out the coil (wasn't the problem, just had a shiny new one on hand) and began following the loom to the distributor. Long story short, we stumbled a disconnected wire that had once been repaired with a bullet clip . Before, there we weren't getting a spark from the distributor. The blue wire (one of three) had been concealed underneath a clamp as it lead into the distributor and must have become undone when we were installing the header. Once the wire was clamped back together, we had spark. Problem solved. And with that, the car just needs the new battery installed, water, antifreeze, and a good run down test drive. Then, she'll be good to go until the next problem :lol:

Okay, so tomorrow my friend (works on Alfas) and I will be heading over to the shop to try troubleshooting the ignition problem with the Z. According to the shop owner, the electrician they called over the weekend never showed, and with a new battery installed the engine started once, but would not start again. As I mentioned before, wiring and electrical work is very much vague to me, so I'm not sure if it could be a problem with the distributor, wiring, ignition coil, any combination of those three, or none of them at all. Is there anyone out there who might have any advice? I'd really appreciate the help!

"Derpy's Datsuns". Has a ring to it! :lol: All jokes aside, welcome to Ratsun Derp ;)