Grafiske

Hey Adam - looks like your inbox is full is not allowing me to send you messages. Contact me at jasondanielfiske at gmail dot com or call: 971 258 6483 so we can figure something out! Thanks, Jay

I recently got in a pretty minor fender bender with my 1984 720 Nap-Z. BUMMER. The front fender/grill/bumper are bent back a bit (hoping it can just be pulled out). The radiator is donezo for sure, but I could do that myself no problem. Right now I have it at a mechanic (Steve Rothenbecker), who I've unfortunately recently lost trust with... (via suggesting I do 1300 of front suspension work after 3 weeks of poor communication, among other things) Looking to find a place where I can get an estimate on body work (cheap and scrappy is fine - I just want it running) and that could do any potential mechanical work as well. Any recommendations? Thanks for your help.

So I've got a 1984 Datsun 720 pickup. Recently fixed head gasket so it's only been on the road for a week or so. I failed the Hydrocarbons test by a LOT. supposed to be under 200. I was at 1100.. uh oh. Anyone know any tricks of good DEQ specialists in Portland OR?

Have not replaced the clutch recently. There is a little leeway but when my foot is not on the pedal at all it is almost "bucking". It studders if I give it a lot of gas and I can tell it's not at full power (when foot is completely off). It seems to be non existent for the first 10 minutes and then slowly creeps back in. DUN DUN DUN. I have highly excessive hydocarbons (via failing DEQ) to boot! Uh oh. Hoping I don't need a clutch and a catalytic converter. Where to get cheap parts? Someone mentioned Discount Foreign Auto Parts maybe in Beaverton?

So I replaced the head gasket on my 720 recently. A few other things popped up (fuel pump, timing, etc) and now it's running! I'm going to adjust the valves soon.. but I've got 2 minor problems I would like to fix myself but I'm having trouble figuring out how. 1. The clutch pedal needs to be depressed about a quarter of an inch to completely disengage. Is this a clust adjustment or a pedal adjustment?? 2. Directionals / washer fluid / hazards are not working. I believe the problem is in the steering column somewhere, but I am unsure how to check! The directionals did work for a short time (hazards and fluid have not worked yet) Thanks for your help!

cool. any tricks or tips for foamy engine briting this thing UP? do i need to cover anything imperative??

So I've just completed a head gasket repair (along with timing chain, fuel pump, and some other fun stuff)... with help from this forum! There was some leakage previously, but besides that I'd really love to clean up the whole engine and underside of the vehicle. Foamy Engine Bright has been recommended to me - do I just coat everything in that and hose it down? Any tricks? Better ideas? I'd love to get it nice and cleeeean.

Awesome! Thanks so much everyone. Super helpful as always.

Thanks! I probably won't actually be able to make it out there unfortunately though..

So I am just about finished with a head gasket repair on my 720 NAPZ 720. I have some missing and incorrect hoses. (Via not labeling them well when disassembling because I am a newbie) Wondering if anyone here is looking or would be willing to do a couple hours work (at most).. Let me know if so - or if you have a 720 NAPZ and are willing to post some photos of under the hood with a lot of good shots of where the hoses are going - that would be AMAZING. Thanks! .

Yeah it definitely has an external lip rail. Hmm I was hoping not to drill into the actual metal/body of the truck.

So I just got a canopy that fits on the bed perfectly - it was previously mounted with C clamps (on a toyota), but judging by the lip on the bed, that won't work on my truck. Is there a go to alternative for mounting beds on 720's? Let me know!

Thanks Crackerjack - I've checked out those videos a few times - but i think Datsunaholic may have solved my mystery - the softblow hammer!

Perfect thanks! I do have the Chiltons and the Haynes - although I am very new so I could be misreading... From my understanding - the chain is still attached to the sprocket gear as you remove the sprocket gear At this point you put the tensioner in (I have a twelve inch long 1 inch in diameter wooden dowel to prop the timing chain up with) And I thought the most important part was not to let the chain fall off the bottom gear - which does seem tricky to take the sprocket gear off without doing that.. never used a deadblow hammer though.

Hey Guys, I'm replacing my head gasket, and I can't seem to get the cam sprocket gear off. I am wondering how and if I have to take tensions out of the chain to do this. And it also looks like the cam gear may be connected to a metal piece towards the pistons which would require me to lift it up about a half inch to even attempt to remove it - it's almost a large washer that fits into a slot to hold everything in place. Any tips on this? Thanks!