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Faster7

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About Faster7

  • Birthday 09/11/1979

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  • Location
    Missouri
  • Cars
    73 510 2DR, 72 1200 2DR Sedan, 72 1200 Coupe

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  1. These seem to be gaining in popularity, does anyone sell the caliper brackets to make it a bolt-on? I know that the S13 knuckle and strut swap seems to be avoided because it would add too much track width, does anyone have a figure of how much exactly it would add?
  2. Did the 1200's switch from borg warner to jatco automatics like the US 510's, or were they jatco the for the whole US lineup? What fluid should I use? Haynes calls for Castrol TQF. I'll be putting a tranny cooler on, fresh fluid and filter, and hoping for this transmission to last a little while.
  3. Yes, since lots of the car ford 8/9" have different length shafts, you can do the same to some extent. But the early ranger short side is VERY short (26.25") so it can really get narrow when you stab that axle into both sides. The bronco II is a PITA. Same splines/etc. However the long side is the same as the long side on early rangers (so the same as mustang, which makes them quite a target at the salvage yard) but then the short side is even longer than the short side on this 92+ axle, so nothing REALLY short in it, stock. I can get a complete good bronco II axle cheap enough that I may be trying to trade it to someone with an early narrow ranger so that I can get the short side shaft cheap. This bronco II axle has 3.45's and is also traction-lock, so I bet I run into someone with an open diff that would be up for the trade.
  4. I'm in luck... the first cheap ranger rear I get is an 8.8, 3.27 geared and traction lock equipped. Win win win. :) Bad news is that since it's later than a 1992 I'll only be able to get it down to ~54.6" width by sticking in the early short side axle in the long tube. I bet I can still make that work with proper wheel selection.
  5. Still up in the air! I have 3 CA18ET's, but will probably go that route in the sedan. Probably a ridiculously compact, aluminum headed, pushrod V6.
  6. That's no joke! Initially it should be in the ~180FWHP/ ~210 torque range, but will be just a few parts away from going over 300ft lbs of torque. The GSL-SE stuff is getting scarce, and I'd be stuck with ~4.08 or so gears. Ring is about 7" on the GSL-SE, so not very strong. They also sport small 26 spline 27mm axles , vs 28 spline 32mm axles on the small ford 7.5/8.8 Tire choice is likely going to let any axle I pick survive, but if I get aggressive and have it spin and then hook, I don't want to have to worry about it. It looks like with all factory parts (so less than $200 spent including disk brake conversion) I can make 7.5 or 8.8 ford rears come out to ~53.6, 54.6, and 55.6" widths WMS to WMS. I'll be playing around with wheel widths and offsets this weekend to pick out which of these is going to be best.
  7. Noted. I know that I'll never need the big 31 spline axles that come in the most common cheap 8.8's (explorer/f150).... and probably won't ever launch hard enough to hurt the ford 7.5 ring and pinion or an aftermarket limited slip carrier. But if I build it as a 7.5 and DO get to where I'm breaking it, I could plug the same 28 spline axles and all of the brake hardware into a cut down explorer/ranger 8.8 down the road if I did have issues. So I guess whatever I come across first on the cheap will be the winner. Keeping with the low cost approach, now I guess I need to look into what I can swap up front to get a bit more brake, and convert to 5x4.5" at the same time.
  8. What is the cheap disk setup for the big bearing rears? Added details. ~200hp/300ftlb but if I'm going to do it once, I'd like to be done with it up to perhaps 300hp/350ftlb. I'd really like to end up with ~3.2 to 3.6 ring and pinion ratio, with as short as the tires are and as much torque any other motor would make, it should pull it along just fine. Stock 1200 measurements look to be about 51.5" WMS to WMS although I haven't measured my own yet, that sounds right. It should be a 145mm and it's leaf sprung. It looks like if I take an early ranger 7.5 or 8.8 (approx 57" wms to wms stock) and cut the longer side tube down to take another stock short side axle, it would put it around 54". With the common higher offset wheels, I think I can make that work.
  9. Are there any other axles that will drop under one of these? Looking for something a bit stronger, and something that I might actually be able to find. Some of the suggestions are RARE, and then all of the tech sites cover AUS/NZ donors. I'll narrow a ford axle if I have to, but would rather put that money into other parts of the project.
  10. Hey man...glad to see you made it!!

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