kgrantkey

Had to empty the bed. Been using the bed for trash/junk. I had to order a rubber brake hose that goes on the rear axil cause I slammed on the brakes and it blew appart. I'm paying insurance on 5 vehicles. Gotta get rid of a couple but like them all. Oh yea, I hit a brick retaining wall at low speed after the brake line blow out. Now I need to fix the hood so it'll close properly. Used a cable hoist to pull out the front. The bumper was off the rtruck in the basement. (kinda glad it was) It's time to get new tags for my cars. May try to get a classic tag for the datsun. All it really needs is the brakes bled and the hood fixed. I'd still like to gear it for higher hi-way speed. I've got 15inch rims. 4 speed tranny. OK just wanted to post on this site cause it's been so long. Happy Days guys and girls!

Good advice. That is what caused my leak. I put the PVC hose that goes to the air filter to the hose on the the drivers side of the engine block. Hard to describe but it put the pressurefrom my lower engine to the valve cover. It only leaked when running and has stopped now that I corrected it.

I was reading on another forum about a guy that had small oil leak on his rear main seal. Said it was caused due to blow by creating too much pressure in the crankcase with faulty venting. My leak has gotten better now that i crank it more often.

Years ago I got any dizzy that looked salvageable from the local pull-it-part. There is a plastic ball bearing piece in the distributor that made me give up on installing a dizzy.

Found what i needed in the How To thread. Should have went there 1st. Thanks for maintaining this site for those of us that are lucky enough to have something the just works - I never sell my Lil Hustler. Wish I'd never sold my 79...or my 72 Datsun Trucks.

Years ago I replaced my distributor with the inductive pickup type that required the ignition module on the passenger side kick panel. I didn't have the ignition module so I used an ignition module from "i believe a 77 camaro" that has 4 lugs that sends the voltage to the coil for spark each time the distributor triggers. I used a nice diagram from this site. I'm not using the dizzy that has the square module on the side of the distributor. Anyone have a link to help me determine if I have a bad ignition module or coil......I just went to start it a few hrs ago and have no spark from the coil. Trid to search the site but couldnt fond what I was looking for. It may have been a link to the 521 site. ?

Still driving my lil'hustler on occasion. It still has a small leak when the engine is running close to the area where the tranny and engine connect. If I had cranked it every few months I don't think it would be dripping fluid, but let it sit far to long without cranking or driving it. Gonna drive it to a small business near my house to empty the trash out of the bed. I promise one day I'll spend a month or two putting this truck back into shape. I have mad the decision I'll have it til I die or forget i'ts mine. Thanks for this site. May be one of the oldest forums I've ever belonged to, and without a doubt the most informative on the Datsun's.

OK. that probably settles it. Not gonna change driveshfts. I'll keep the 4 speed. I do catch myself once in a while going for 5th. Don't drive it much but starting to clean out my junk and alot of it bolts on this truck. 1978 yellow 620 w/4spd manual.

The 4 speed came in one of my pre 1979 datsun trucks. If my memory is correct the 4spd i have is a better model than the 4 spd i thru away. I know there waqs a reason i kept one over the other. ...but it's midnight here and i'm gonna lay down. Thanks again for retrieving my username. I'll try to get the list of vehicles and shit straight pretty soon.

I only speak of my datsun 620 truck on this forum. L20b /w 4spd manual. The rear main seal is the one at the back of the engine that surrounds the crankshaft. I'll probably just change the rear seal, but it's not too hard to jerk the engine and tranny out as 1 with my big ass engine hoist. I'd spend a dollar or two on a 5 speed tranny if it fit to my l20b and the shifter came up thru the floor like it should. Honestly, I just told my grandson he could help with the repair cause he luvs this truck. ..and it is leaking oil at the back of the engine. - I have an old 1998 S10 chevy truck.

Looks like i gotta replace the rear main seal in my 620 lil'hustler w/L20 and 4speed tranny. The engine I'll keep til i die. the tranny is a good 4 speed. Will do nothing but replace the rear bearing unless i can find a 5 speed that let me go 80-90 mph with less rpm. I'm clueless about tyranny's that can bolt to an L series motor. I know the 200sx had a 5 speed. Heck I sold 1 years ago. Should I just be satisfied with 80 mph on a 4 speed? All I gotta do is replace the rear main. I'll do more if it's beneficial, but I've got a pretty good combination with the L20b/4speed tranny as it is. I just could kick myself for letting the rear main dry out - I didn't drive this truck for several years and feel that's why the rear seal's leaking. I'm not lazy. I've learned a ton and made many mods from this site. A link or 2 on transmissions that bolt to an L block that are around? Change the bellhousing? Not ready to start a time consuming project. It'd be great if there was a good 5/6 speed manual tranny that would bolt up from a 300z . BIG THANKS - to datzenmike for retrieving my old username. I'd breech the subject of photofukit and lost memories but it hurts too much rite now! --------------------------------------------------------------------- TLDR - is it worth looking for a better tranny than my 4spd to install on my L20b just cause i gotta replace a leaking main seal?

I had an l16 stock and l18 stock. Same with my l20b. The best mod I made that gave me more performance was a bigger carb. I don't race it just drive it. Of course I've done the alt upgrade and electronic ignition. Put a 720 brake booster and master cylinder to help my drum brakes stop, and did that because I kept getting bad master cylinders from the parts stores. I do wish I'd kept my 79 king cab. More room and front disks.

PM sent.

Here is the adapter I need. Not the whole air filter just the adapter. Over 100 dollars on ebay. May have to rig something up. The U67 head is in pretty good shape. I put it on my l20 and water leaked out the side. It cant be warped much. If I'd used coolant, that is thicker than water and cranked it up so it could heat to operating temp I may could have re-torqued it. I just put the w58 back on.

Thanks. L18. Right where the dip stick tube is.