Baz

This is the way the factory did them. Been removing & replacing Datsun screens for 46years now. The moulding in not a locking strip. On some Datsun's the fitting of the screen locks the moulding in position. Fitting the moulding first also help in aligning the corners. Also saves bending the moulding & slicing your fingers. Use a good lube when fitting rubber seals. Our manufacturer recommends Palmolive dish washing detergent.

Please note that when fitting windshield seals the moulding are fitted to the seal before installing into the vehicle. This is how the factory did them & is documented in the early factory manuals. If mouldings are not fitted to the seal the corners will not sit correctly. If you do not have the correct mouldings then a smooth type seal is required.

Regardless of ride height the rear needs to be at least 25mm higher than the front measured off the rocker panel. With firmer suspension setup these days the use of RCAs on the front can be detrimental. The rear roll centre needs to be higher than the front. The use of leaf spring type rear shocks is a fail. Rear shocks need to be close to 50/50 in rate. Minor adjustments to the toe can have a huge affect on the handling. Rear camber needs to be close to zero to 1 degree neg & toe 4mm as a starting point. Note that with our kit the toe can be adjusted on the fly to tune the turn in.

I am unable to post links on this forum for some reason. We do have trimless seals on our site. We have them for all model 510s. We have standard mounding, SSS & trimless. On all the 510 rubber list the screen seal are at the top of the lists. Our trimless seals are not perfectly smooth. We are getting extrusion dies made for a new type smooth front & rear screen seals for all models. Please recheck the listings.

Matt, I will check with Tracy as to what we have for the 520/521. Thanks for the welcome carter, tho I have been on the forum for some time now. Have made a few contributions. cheers

I don't need to tell you the quality of our Australian made rubber seals. There are lots of reviews/ comments on how they fit & most importantly last. The problem is the cost for overseas clients. Since the GFC the US dollar has faired badly against the Aussie Dollar. Over the last year the greenback has made a great recovery. The Aussie dollar is now starting to rise again up 3 cent in the last week. Now is the time to get seals from Oz before the prices rise again. Example : You price up seals from our site & it looks expensive , especially when you add the cost of shipping. So you price up seals & it adds up to say, $AU1000 (That's near all the rubber for most 510s) when we remove our GST is now $AU910 Add express shipping with tracking $AU180 Total is now $AU1090 So we convert that to $US and the total with shipping Is ( on todays rate) $$US840 Not so bad for the best seals on the market. We are now exporting our seals to retail shops in Japan. We are so proud that a small Aussie business can export Datsun parts back to Japan. Any questions welcome. Cheers Baz & Tracy.

I note in your list of parts that you have Nismo mounts. They are not suitable for use in the Datsport kit. The kit is designed to use original mounts. The Nismo mounts are too hard & will not allow the engine to sit at the right height.

We are the only company in Australia that has seals made locally. Our manufacture is less than 6 miles away. We are limited in making some seals as the costs involved with having moulds made is prohibitive. It takes years in some cases to get a return on the investment. The cost of quality rubber & the extrusions makes it hard for us to compete with people selling the crap Thailand, Malaysian seals. We have been offered screen seals for $18 each, door seals for $7. Others sell these crap seals on ebay & other places & make a fortune. We do cargo bay seals for the wagons, but they are not exactly the same as the OEM versions. The volume of sales we have would not justify the $30,000 it will cost for full dies to be made. Here is the current list of wagon seals. http://www.datsport.com/rubbers-510-wagon.html Take note the prices are in $AU & include tax. Discount the listed price by 14%

Poly bushes work well with our ARCs. You just need the right duro. If you are using hard red urethane then you will have a binding problem. We use a black urethane that is just a tad firmer than rubber. However if your bushes are intact and all the fastners are secure then the X member is not at fault. In Oz we usually run 15 to 20 mm of rake front to rear. Better handling at speed & levels out the squat a bit under throttle load. I would add about 6 mm of spacer to the rear spring saddle. Good rear mono gas shocks will also help to counter the vibration with load in the rear or under acceleration.

The 13/16 base can be used to fit the 7/8 master. Just remove the lip & open the sbore up a tad with a flap wheel. 10 mins max. or 2 mins with a die grinder.

521 quarter glass, vent, seals are NOT being manufactured in Australia. We appear to have have a good rep in the US & Canada for quality seals. They have been proven to last in harsh conditions for 10 years & counting. So a few forums are recommending our rubbers & Aussie seals as the best available. So I guess the crap rubber makers are passing their products off as OZ made to cash in. Most, not all, our seals are made in a backyard factory, in Adelaide, by a family team. The rubber is mixed & extruded in another small factory , all so located in Adelaide. The moulds are also made locally. They cost way more to make than the cheap asian stuff, but the sellers are cashing in because they use Aussie made prices as a guide to rip us off with crap products. Our rubber guy is always up for improving the products where he can. Our new boot seal is much softer than previous version. BUY our seals or not, but make sure they are made in OZ.

For the DE only with our top outlet. Use the lower hose for L series 510. This will give the correct clearance for the Dissy. Not that the top rad inlet will have to be modified. If using a copper rad, the lower outlet from a 510 rad is the way to go. This may help you. http://www.datsport.com/cooling-sr-rad-na.html

Please advise if they are 29 spline. If so we will take them all.

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13776&p=141890&hilit=datsport#p141890 http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13685&p=140977&hilit=who+has+bought+from+datsport#p140977 Note that we also supply most all after market specific wagon seals sold in The US. South Australia is known as the driest state in the driest inhabited continent. Most of SA is in the arid zone, and only the south-east gets good rainfall. The capital city, Adelaide, situated in the south of the state has an annual average rainfall of 528mm. This makes it the driest capital city in Australia. we have very high UV in our country. So we have to have extreme resistance to UV with our seals. http://www.arpansa.gov.au/uvindex/models/adluvmodel.htm

If you have fab skills this is a low cost way of doing the rear crossmember. http://www.datsport.com/fitting-instruction/arc-diy-kit-fitting-instructions.html