MindlissMetalfab

Why are your lower links welded to each other? I wont get into the reverse 4 link end of things since you already decided to ignore everyone's advice on that.

Sorry, my post meant to say oil cap and oil pan. Not sure why I put filler. I talked to Seth at twisted minis and used the same method he used to set up the motor on this truck since its got the same front clip. http://www.hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00044506/12570320470.jpg Using stock datsun stuff wouldnt be much help. I'd have to modify it all anyways since the motor is lowered and the exhaust needs to pass through the crossmember. Plus I think mine's nicer. I'm pretty happy with it so far. I may move the mounts on the frame back a 1/2" or so since its a little tight with my steering and I'd rather not have any issues. But I have to rebuild the engine crossmember to do that. So its later on the list, priority now is the floor so I can free up my chassis table for a customer.

It was visibly off kilter in every way possible. Not really worth a reference. Anyways I talked to another guy who's set up a motor in these trucks with a toyota front clip. He used the top 2 bellhousing bolts to level it side to side so that's what I will do.

I didnt say a thing about an oil filter. And I plainly stated that you could tell that the valve cover etc was on a different plane. OEM components are NOT going to work, considering the chassis is hand built with a toyota pickup front clip. I'm not an idiot just asking from some simple advice as I'm starting from scratch here. http://www.mindlissmetal.com/1968-datsun/ Generally I would have just taken the measurements before I pulled it apart however I didnt want to trust the scrap angle iron mounts the truck came with to be correct. Anyways thanks for the help. Basically just wondering what the best reference is. If someone knows the angle of the pulley centerlines, then thats all I need.

Like I said I'm not overly worried about the tailshaft angle. My pinion is set 2° up so I will set the tailshaft at 2° down. Its the side to side of the motor I'm most worried about as I'm not totally sure what should be 'level; since the valve cover, oil cap and oil filler all seem to be on different planes...

I have a 68 521 that a previous owner had 'swapped' an L16 into. The swap was done with some farmer bojangling so I didnt even bother to check the angles of the engine and trans when I pulled it out because you could tell it was janky. Now I'm putting it back together with a new front frame clip so I need to build motor and trans mounts before I can start my new floor and firewall. I know the engine should be level side to side but it seems like everything is on a different plane. Should I make sure the centerline between the cam and crankshaft pulleys is perpindicular? Or go with the valve cover? oil pan? Also need to know the front to back angle, generally I would assume 2° down on the pinion should be OK but i just want to double check.

OK well thats not horrible, I deal with a pretty good fitting/hydraulic place for custom brake lines etc. The engine harness in there now is just a rats nest and i wouldnt even know where to start. If its just a matter of redoing the connectors on the ends I think I;d rather go that route than try to sort out the stock mess. Any issues i might run into with the speedo? Trans is an F4W63

Weird for some reason this site is messing it up. When i copy and paste the address it works fine. Click the link, and add the ,7801.html or ,2352.html that arent appearing clickable in my post and it will work.

My 68 521 has had the motor swapped out to an L16. Since I have no idea who did the swap, and I have the entire truck apart anyways, I'd like to rewire it. I'm building a new dash as well so I'd like to add some nice gauges. I would like to run these... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stewart-Warner-Black-Five-Combination-Electric-Mechanical-Gauge-Sets,7801.html And will I need anything else besides this for wiring? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Economy-12-Circuit-Wiring-Harness,2352.html

I have a 68 datsun but it has an L16 and A87 heads. The motor has not run in 7 years so instead of rebuilding the stock carb, I'd like to put a weber on it. Is this the kit for me or do any vendors here sell them? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Pickup-L20-L18-L16-Redline-Carburetor-Kit-Weber_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4a9230388eQQitemZ320280213646QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Finished up my new chassis table and put the datsun up to resquare the cab to the frame and start on the floor and firewall.

The wheels arent mine, I borrowed them for the show. The truck will just be getting steel wheels. I also had the transmission overhauled and I have that back. I'm going to send the motor out for an overhaul once I finish build new motor mounts and a trans crossmember. Are the weber carb kits for these trucks worthwhile? I figure it might be the better option rather than rebuilding the stock one.

After the show I decided since it it needed new rocker panels anyways, I may as well go a little lower. So I formed up new panels 1.5" shorter than stock, and cut the floor out. It sat like that for a few months as I was busy with the dually project and some other customer work. I finally got started on the datsun again this weekend though. Finished my new frame table, got the frame on the table and squared up the cab. Working on the inner rockers and cab mounts then starting a new floor and firewall. And when I picked it up:

Definitely been awhile since I updated this, I got a little busy scrambling to get it in one piece to bring to my clubs show in June.

Yeah I hit the 5 by accident. The part I got is the 32604 P0100. The rear seal I got ended up being right, and I got the size number off the front seal yesterday. I also found the full list of part #s and diagrams on http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech. So hopefully I can find the rest of the parts i need! Thanks guys, this forum is definitely a good one!