DattoChinook

Ok I will try just doing the one vacuum hose. Thanks

I'd really appreciate that. Thanks! Paypal for the shipping? I'm in 97007. I think I need the airpump to get it to pass even deq even with the hitachi?

I went back to deq. Failed but not as bad. 1st pass HC (220 or below) 344 CO (1 or below) 1.6562 2nd pass HC (220 or below) 350 CO (1 or below) 0.8356 The first time i took the test it looked like this 1st pass HC (220 or below) 466 CO (1 or below) 1.2519 2nd pass HC (220 or below) 343 CO (1 or below) 5.8469 I figure I didnt hook up vacuum lines right. It ran like crap and kept studdering when accelerating. I took all the vacuum lines back off after the 2nd deq test and it runs like it used to. I have no idea what I am doing or how to fix this. About to give up. When I bought this my parents lived in Salem and I planned to register it there if I had deq issues.. They just moved back to the Portland Metro area and now I am SOL. I have family that Lives in Eugene and St Helens and figure I could change my address to either place and not have to do smog. But the DMV will require utility bills or a lease or something. Sounds like trouble getting involved in doing that...

So I hooked the vacuum lines up how I thought they went... Advance from the carb to a T One part of the t going to the dist. one part going to one of the nipples by the thermostat. Then another line going from the second nipple by the thermostat to the egr. Is this right? It seems to idle better but it hesitates now and then now when I give it gas. I capped the inlet pipe for the smog pump with a pipe cap. It is pretty close to the fuel line. Not touching but less than an inch. Kind of worried it is too close to the fuel line. It got pretty hot just taking it for a test drive.

They looked all in the hood at the deq and didn't say anything... just failed for emissions and not inspection. I see why he took off the smog pump now... the air valve is too big to fit on that pipe with the weber there. Weber is totally in the way. I am gonna just gonna have to cap it.

Thanks DatzenMike. So I am still confused a little on where I need to run vacuum hoses. From carb vacuum advance to distributor and then to one of the nipples by the thermostat (with a t??)? Then another line out of the other nipple by the distributor and to the egr? So the carbon canister only has one line going to it. What else goes to it? So as far as the check valve that I am missing... Will that fix my exhaust leak if I install one? Or should I just buy a (non rubber hahaha) cap to go over it? Is it possible for me to pass the deq without a smog pump?

Thanks.

So I dont have an airpump then. Can I not pass deq without one?

Yes Cat. Not sure if it works though. Could be the original. Not sure what NOX numbers were.

Deq readings... Second idle is after he revved the engine for a minute. First Idle: HC (220 or below) 466 CO (1 or below) 1.2519 Second Idle: HC (220 or below) 343 CO (1 or below) 5.8469

Can someone please tell me what the pipe coming out with the rubber cap on it is (in the last 2 pics - 3rd to last shows it with the rubber cap removed)? What is it for originally? It obviously wasnt meant to be capped by a rubber cap right?

Ok thanks. I am not that experienced to do anything more than changing out the plugs or wires. Wires are newer. Not sure about plugs. I planned on getting a regular air filter for next time I test and ditch the k&n. Was gonna also do an oil change.

So I dont understand... There is just supposed to be a cap on that or was something originally supposed to hook up to it?

I have a 78 620. This is my first Datsun and I dont know much about egr and vacuum lines. I bought this in February. It has always ran good but always had a small exhaust leak coming from near under the hood and it has always idled where it seems like it is gonna die every 20 seconds or so but doesnt. The guy I bought it from installed this weber carb himself. I always knew something wasnt right about how everything was hooked up, as it looks like it is missing vacuum lines. It ran ok so I ignored it. I always thought the exhaust leak was from the header gasket... Today I failed deq with high HC and CO. I started looking at things closely under the hood. I am sure I found my exhaust leak. This tube is capped with a rubber cap and it has what seems like exhaust coming out of it where pressure increases when I give it gas. Its obvious that it has been leaking through that rubber cap. A bunch of other stuff has to not be right. Any help is appreciated. I want this to pass deq and get back on the road.

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