nerdistmonk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5z6u9uyaxZ4 mike is a national treasure, for el-canadi and the divided states of america. Yeah i just awoke from my retirement on here to say that. Well back to ignoring you all, kthxbye.

I said numerous times the 32/36 works a treat on the L series engines, all the people coming in to defend their 32/36 have what....L series engines. Its simple physics a bigger engine needs more fuel, so it will have to be rejetted for my engine to use it. that slight bog that mike mentions, its a significant bog on my truck for the first 3 gears, the gearing is the only reason it picks up speed at all, it just as fuel hungry but the gears are lighter towards the end so it gets by better, my spark plugs look like the sahara desert, no adjusting is going to fix it, i got the mix screw as far out as you can safely go (4 1/2 turns or so) its dying of thirst, rejetting it will fix it, im sure of that, i never said the 32/36 was bad, never said it wasnt usable, it works on my truck but it isnt all there yet, i also told the op to make his own choice because both carbs will work just fine. it also seems silly to have him get a 32/36 if he would have to rejet as soon as he gets it cause the rejet kit + the cost of the carb are more than the cost of the 38/38 and it wont need rejetted it will be plenty big for the z22 or z24 engine, i cant even remember which friggin engine he has at this point cause he bailed like 300 posts ago. :rofl:

Thanks for the reply mike, it certainly isnt flooding, the engine is so lean theres dust coming out of the spark plug holes (exaggerating) and yes that was an oversight of mine when i said too many turns = too small carb, i tried to elaborate better in my other posts, your right too many turns = under-jetted also i dont expect alot from my truck, but i do expect it to be somewhat peppy, peppy is not a term i would use to describe this truck as of now. As for the frankie pintado truck that has the 38, he put 55,000 miles on it total so the 38 must work well or he obviously wouldnt have made it that long (the thread goes from 2009 until 2012) as for why he didnt change the intake, the same exact reason i didnt, you guys talk like parts are just laying all over for me to get, lest you forget you had to send me a part from canada the rest had to come from california, that is 2,300+ miles away from my home, and if i do not know what i need, how can i order it (i missed that pedalstal didnt i?) as for why my mileage is lousy, being under jetted and constantly flooring it to compensate may have a hand in that, i feel once i do jet it properly it should be very different. So until its jetted right, yes it is a pig, the truck that is. Carb isnt flooding, that dingleberry isnt stuck and my choke is manually controlled. edit: as for the over-pressure, i called racetep, they sale pumps and redline parts, they are the ones who claim you can run the p4070 90gph pump unregulated, and what he said was he has been running webers for 20 years with that particular pump, they have never had a flooding issue or a problem out of their carbs. I trust that because he talked me out of ordering a new fuel pump and told me to rejet it, it usually isnt good business to talk a customer out of a $109 fuel pump. edit2: i just bought a jet kit, $59, that shall hopefully fix this mess edit3: my trucks curb weight should be the same as a 720 (not counting what was removed that is), the D21 is a 720, the differences are mostly cosmetic, different rear end also, as mentioned before the 1986 Model year 720 came as both EFI and carb, (the real year of my truck is actually october 1985, you know that whole perpetual 1 year ahead crap to make it seem futuristic and new), i looked my curb weight up seems to be 2755lbs? seems pretty close to the 720, and mine is likely 200lbs lighter than that because i dropped alot of stuff off of it. Thanks again for your reply mike.

ok so an update, took a crash course in jetting this beast, it will cost me $60 sadly i dont see it being cheaper, i got a guide from a 4 cyl toyota that has photos of the 32/36 and more importantly what it looks like when you pull it apart and he listed the size jets he went to so i have something, Mine is at 55/50 i think so i will go to 75/65 idle then the main jet i will go to 145/150? the rest of it im going to ignore. If i didnt know any better i would say redline underjets these on purpose so they can sell the jet kit, I got a good feeling about this, i think it may just fix this thing, if it dont im punting it across the yard....erm not really since i need it but hey bigger jets sure cant hurt it. If it ran any leaner dust would be lofting from the spark plug holes.

ebay jetting kits are also $59, i found this in ratsun Main Venturi: 26/27 Aux Venturi: 3.5/3.5 Main Jet: 140/135 Em Tube: F50/F6 Air Corr Jet: 165/160 Idle Jet: 55/50 Pump Jet: 50 Needle Valve: 2.0 I am going back to that old nicoclub thread that i used to do the conversion, i think this was brought up there and a jetting guide may have been posted (link might be dead though :crying: ) It would help if i knew what i was doing half the time, being so spontaneous does have its disadvantages, but being random is fun with nerdy!™ :w00t: :ninja: :confused: :poke: :angel: :thumbup: edit: if anyone knows of a helpful guide or something im looking for one, otherwise im going to take a wild guess that i need to make as many of those numbers bigger as i can until my spark plug changes color (preferably towards the darker spectrum). meh ill just slap the biggest jets in this kit on it, that should solve it! :ninja:

meh to say the least im going to investigate into this jetting stuff and give the 32/36 a fair shot before i dog it completely. As long as the jets are worth it, the racetep guy said $60 for a jetting kit seems a little high to me. White colored spark plug tips is running lean correct?

i would say any real damage would occur if you power up the pump and the engine isnt running (my truck you never ever turn the ignition on and leave it, since it powers up the coils and pump) As for whether it hurts them in the long run, your right it will mostly cause some wear but thats why i am going to buy a rotary vane pump for the thing soon (along with the 38 weber ive been discussing in another thread), no diaphragm on that beast (internal pressure regulation)

Its amusing everyone looks at that the 38/38 like its a 4 barrel monster that sucks 2 gallons a minute to work. As for the above mentioned dyno numbers, im just going to say fooey to all that gobblity gook, im happy that your engine works well for you on a 32/36 (Im assuming thats what all that stuff on those papers mean, you could have just said your vehicle is fast and peppy). I never said the 32/36 was garbage, i also said...wait for it that it works exceptionally well on L engines and that it works fine on the z engines it just doesnt have much throttle response, theres no kickdown when you engage the second barrel no sudden acceleration it just laps up all the extra fuel like it isnt even there (which means the carb isnt big enough). You can argue all day long but that wont change the fact that when i go to town today, i will be mashing the pedal to the floor at every stop light and no there isnt any factor i could have done to make it do this, i even stripped the fuel system down to just a pump/filter with a direct line to the carb, so it isnt a pump problem (brand new pump, new filter). Its just the carb, its the carbs responsibility to deliver that fuel to my engine. I could see you coming in and debating that a 4-barrel would be too big (even though i see datsuns on here with 2 carbs or 3 carbs which is the same thing.....) but coming in here to fight a fierce holy war over a carb that is marginally bigger and its main advantage is both barrels open simultaneously is just a waste, $50 says when i get my 38/38 i dont notice any difference in fuel usage, so far ive burned a quarter tank going 25 miles, thats what happens when you run a carb way past its recommended settings, if i had a big enough carb so i can pare it down instead of cranking it up my fuel usage would be better. For me the 32/36 is the pig, if you have to floor it all the time to get any real short game acceleration then those so called fuel savings go out the window, a 38/38 will do the same stuff as a 32/36 with only half the throttle (i.e normal), and if i go full throttle there should be some real acceleration there. Flooring it is not a good thing, needing to do this shows a deficiency somewhere, gutless or not the z24 should be screaming if i floor it. I would toss out a bran flakes analogy but meh and even if you still think im full of it (and you know you do) then theres frankie pintado you can go read through his thread on nicoclub, 35,000 miles and his truck is still alive and well? sounds like the 38 works just fine. Matter of fact he warned against using the 32/36 (and he was right), I went a step farther than frankie, i put a real fuel system in mine and took the computer out of the equation so mine would be even better than his on a 38. Anyways this is my last reply to this unless someone has a revelation that makes the 32/36 a monster. All the talking points have been mentioned and their just isnt anything to add. If you vehicle runs the way YOU want it to run then thats all that matters, this is another one of those things that come down to feel, those dyno numbers dont tell me nothing about how it feels.

The problem with a return line on a carb system that has a low pressure pump (4 psi or lower) is your not lowering pressure your lowering volume, everyone keeps overlooking that, volume is critical, your vehicle will run with any pressure as long as it isnt so high as to damage the needle valve, its volume that keeps it alive, your redirecting fuel that needs to be ready for the carb, whats the point of a fuel pump that just cycles the fuel constantly? The reason weber documents a maximum pressure is because they never intended for you to have a return spout, if they did it would be installed on the carb itself opposite the input. You need return lines on EFI systems due to the tremendous pressure of an efi system (22+ psi), also since EFI is dynamic, it can adjust its fuel consumption on the fly and as such may need to return fuel back to the tank. It doesnt return fuel to keep it cold, this isnt a beverage fridge, its an engine. But on a low pressure system a return line is unwarranted, if your having vapor lock issues the return line is just a band-aid a cover, it would be better for you to find the root cause of the vapor lock (usually heat, and a vac vent on the fuel bowl would work wonders i would suspect), because if you manage to starve the engine of fuel (and yes you can do it without knowing, unless you pull the spark plugs every other week and look/smell), starving the engine of fuel = lean = hot combustion chamber and hot intake manifold = hole in piston if drove like that for a long time. Its just as bad as over-advanced timing (which i didnt know caused the same thing till about 5 days ago) Anyways i got no return on mine, cant tell one bit of difference, other than it certainly starts faster than before. All of the above is my opinion, if you dont agree with any of it thats fine. No hard feelings. Off to bed, g'night and take care

No that was for the DGEV and yes now it is at $339.95 if your looking on ebay (prices went up since i did the conversion, even the 32/36 is higher), and the info on weber recommending the 38 comes from the man who wrote the instructions for the z24i conversion i used to put the 32/36 on my engine. It isnt a bolt in replacement on the z24i, holes have to be tapped on the manifold, a guy on nico club i believe by the name of frankie pintado made the instructions. He had spent alot of time talking to weber in the attempt to get a carb adapter for the z24i's intake and save the trouble, in the process of doing so they had said that the 38 outlaw was their recommendation and that they would not make a carb kit for the z24i (idk why), i had his entire thread printed off and was using it as a roadmap in january since i hadnt done anything like this before. He ran the 38 outlaw on his, and kept the factory EFI fuel pump and computer (rigged up some sort of relief for the pressure), i diverted from his plans and made my own fuel system instead. Anyways he documented 20,000 miles on that carb before finally ending the thread and even passed emissions without the smog hardware (he put his z24i breather box on the weber to hide the modifications) Thats where most of this info came from, without those instructions the truck would be in the junkyard right now I've drove my truck with this 32/36 on here for 7 months now, a rebuttal unless it shines light on something new wouldnt help since first hand experience beats theoreticals everytime. Engine Sizes and fuel consumption rates look nice on paper but in the end it dont work out like that, it isnt the amount of fuel, its how its delivered, getting fuel to the carb is half the equation. My problem is the 32/36 doesnt deliver fast enough, the 32/36 is a huge upgrade for the 1.6L and the 1.8, 2.0 engines (L Family), as such you notice all the L engines usually have a weber or 3 attached to them. (why 3 of them or two of them, even my engine has an option for dual webers, why would you need two if the 32/36 works so well), Also as for jetting, i bought the redline weber version, as opposed to just a factory weber, it was already jetted for the z24 engine. My final line on the matter is this: Neither carb would be a bad decision theres no wrong decision here to be made, they both work, though i feel the 38 outlaw would perform much more pleasantly in the way he and I are wanting which is in the short game (0 to 40 mph), the 32/36 is quite quick once you get into 4th gear it can really pick up the speed but on the short game it barely keeps up with other vehicles in traffic, the throttle response just isnt there, i have to floor it to stay moving fast enough. On a side note: I am almost certain the moon stopped for a while, it had to have stopped because yesterday the moon was at the same point in the sky at 6pm and now i walk outside at 3am and theres the moon in the same spot, so either it made the fastest lap ever recorded around the earth or the thing stopped somewhere and waited, take that as crazy but i am being dead serious...sigh if this were any other year i would almost be surprised, if i go outside to get the mail and a kitty cat said "good morning" i would likely say the same in return and go back inside :confused: ) Anyways take care and good night (or good morning as it were) im off to bed.

Heres a followup, i decided to go on a 3am drive with it, just now, once it warmed up it was quite fast (as expected) this truck could easily hit 110 mph, but the problem that still remains is the 0 - 45 mph acceleration, the truck can scoot after it gets past a certain point. So idk, if one was in the city they would want the best acceleration to be during 0 - 40 mph, this thing opens up when you get it in 4th gear (and floor it) that being the other issue, i shouldnt need to floor it, whats the point of a throttle if the only option is wide open? and let me mind you ive owned 6 or 7 vehicles, with the exception of the jeep, they all took off faster than this truck does. I wouldnt see what would cause this truck to be so different other than me putting too small of a carb on it. The other thing i think that hurts all of the trucks not just mine is the gearing, i just dont think they are geared to be acceleration friendly, So pretty much take it all under consideration, like the other fella said its costly, but i dont think there is a wrong decision to be made here, both carbs will function just fine, i mean the 32/36 works great, im not saying it doesnt work or anything, it just dont have any oomph to it and i would think i would have more throttle response than this i mean i have never owned a vehicle where flooring it was acceptable behavior. So the choice is yours in the end.

there is barely a $40 difference between the two, its only costly if he does like me and buys a 32/36 then ends up underwhelmed, Your carb needs to at least be big enough to tune down for the engine, mine is tuned way up over its max settings, it has the acceleration of a moped, you can floor it and dont expect no butt-puckering, the second barrel does make it accelerate faster but its mainly to attempt passing someone (i stress attempt since it doesnt accelerate fast enough to help much, nothing makes me more nervous than a slow moving pass, i like to be around and gone, the only other truck ive had that was this slow was a Jeep Comanche which was their answer to this truck, it was even slower and wouldnt go up a steep hill with me in it, dead serious thats what 55hp gets you) It isnt just the jetting, the big thing is the 38/38 is a real fully functional two barrel, thats what makes the huge difference, sure you save $40 in price but you lose a barrel in the process (the 32/36 has two barrels but only opens the second barrel if you punch it to the floor, it was for passing) a 38/38 is on my Christmas list big time, my 32/36 cost me $289 + tax, a 38/38 is $320 so you might as well just get the recommended carb for the z24 (weber recommends the 38 outlaw over the 32/36)

I bought my truck fully expecting to replace erm everything (and thats sort of holding true so far), thats what any vehicle from before the 90s gets you, a down payment on a lifetime of work, but i love my truck, its my truck and when i say mine, for once i mean it, the longer i own it the more and more it stops resembling a nissan and it becomes my setup instead of theirs. and besides for example this truck would cost $17,000 if it were for sale in 2013 (if anything the closest living relative is the frontier and look how much it is), i would never own this truck in 1986 if it were new, because idk about anyone else on here but i dont exact have a personal money tree thats in full bloom (not that anything would grow in that garden of mine anyways, even the weeds complain) so slowly i will have a truck thats better than new, because in the end its my truck, it wont make sense to anyone else, but thats why its mine. Whether or not i eventually spend $17,000 on it is subject to debate, but at least this truck allows micropayments ;)

Tristin your the reason the thread crashed and burned brother, everyone of your comments (and a couple of posts from others) were completely pointless, just trollish remarks that demean & belittle the op aswell as myself. Matter of fact the last few threads ive been in that were graced by your presence resulted in the thread being jerked into a bridge abutment. and of course i get the honor of having you visit my project thread and crap all over my hard work (why its just a hardbody), since it dont have a datsun logo on it. Even if i ever did buy a datsun the first thing i would do i change all the emblems to say nissan instead just because of that. Anyways i got to go order an alternator now. Have fun clowning around.

So is this thing going to be pure rally or is this more of a 'weekend warrior' kind of truck where its a well behaved DD during the week but come saturday morning its cutting a rug?