jboulukos

Right?! Midwest style. Generation X. The Datsun gods are smiling on us.

oh nice. yeah, 98th and Washtenaw. We should meet up.

My B210 will smell like gas inside the cabin, which I like. I know the gas tank is right behind the rear seatback. Do you think the vented cap may decrease the gas smell in the car's cabin? It usually is more smelling of gas the longer it has been sitting.

Is there any benefit to having a vented fuel tank cap? A friend of mine is hell bent on allowing the gas tank to breathe.

I don't remember man. Did we cross paths? Thanks for reaching out!

Issue was completely fixed with a new battery and a rebuilt alternator.

Alright so I found the issue. I accidentally left my lights on yesterday for about 4 hours. It lowered the battery. The “CHG” light started dimly glowing and increases in brightness while hitting the gas, along with the “brake” light being on at a steady intensity. I charged the battery a bit and it improved with the “brake” light going off and the chg light glowing dimly. I guess I just need to trickle charge it overnight. Seems to be fixed now and part of what happens during a low battery level. And I vaguely remember this occurring in the past. All good now.

Is the switch located behind the instrument cluster?

Hey, I put my parking brake on while parked for 5 hours. It hadn’t been used for about a year and I wanted to use it so it wouldn’t freeze up. When I went to disengage the parking brake, it seemed to disengage the actual brake however the instrument cluster “brake” light stayed on. I have driven the car with the light on and I don’t believe that the brake is actually engaged as the light indicates. My question is how can I get the parking brake light to go off in the instrument cluster? Is it possible that the brake cable is partially engaged or stuck a bit? I think this has happened before and will go off in time. Any advice is much appreciated.

Thank you. Great info as usual. Car is back to running great. Here’s what I did today. Removed the air cleaner housing, sprayed the throttle linkage? With carb cleaner and scrubbed with toothbrush. Seemed a bit loose as far as metal arms/joints sliding about, however intact. Adjusted the choke back to original position from the last 4 years which happened to be turned to the right, around 2 o’clock. Took the choke electric wire out of its socket connection and pushed it back it tightly. Tested the diaphragm saucers...the one at the distributor was fine (no air sucked through), the carb has two...the larger one one the passenger side rear (of the carb) was fine (no air sucked through), heard a little thud (diaphragm working to block air passage?) and then the other little diaphragm with I think is referred to as the dash pot... this thing allowed air through and part of the mechanism behind it moved too. Not sure if that’s normal. Either way, I started it up. Seemed to start up fine. Needed a little gas. I moved the idle screw a bit and returned it back to its position. Sprayed some silicone on the large rubber hoses that connect to the air filter housing and then buttoned everything up. Car seemed to return to its normal low hum and normal acceleration power. So I guess it was the choke after all.

Regarding the diaphragms, are you taking about the carb...the saucer looking things? How can I test them? if they are shot, can I replace them with diaphragms from an extra carb? Thanks for the direction.

Car start still remains poor, as if it is about to start but then stops, require 6-12 attempts that get closer and closer to initiating the engine, then requires repetitive presses of the gas pedal to stay running for the first 10 seconds. It’s 60 degrees, not cold. I had an oil change today and drove about 60 miles. Then drove again and within 1 mile was losing power again. Pulled over, started up the engine and drove a few blocks and the loss of power issue stopped. Should I check compression? I still think I must not have the carburetor adjustments dialed in. If I had poor compression, would the car run well at certain times then lose power at other times? history: -oil change today -great working NOS Kyosan Denki fuel pump -new fuel filter and new fuel -may 2016: new head gasket, exhaust/intake manifold gasket, water outlet gasket, thermostat, new spark plugs/rotor/wires, carb/starter/alternator rebuilt It’s been since 2016 for compression testing. When I changed the cylinder head gasket, I did not have the head milled. Since that time I haven’t had any issues with coolant loss. There seems to be a small amount of oil on the passenger side of the cylinder head above the gasket near the ledge area between the first and second spark plug. I have replaced the valve cover gasket 3 days ago. Not sure if that was the issue because the old gasket looked ok and wasn’t more than 6 years old. Can oil sometimes leak out of the spark plug hole or at the junction of the valve cover and cylinder head? Not sure if that small leak is related to the loss of power. I still think it’s the carburetor. I recently adjusted the choke and thought it was all set but then the next cold start went poorly again. Would adjusting the idle help the loss of power? Maybe I should return to the choke and readjust. When the car is running, it sounds as though it could be more smooth even when there isn’t the loss of power. Am I on the right track?

Drove nice after warming up. No significant white smoke. Radiator full of coolant. Oil change scheduled for Wednesday.

Started rough again this morning. White smoke and engine would die when gas lightly pressed in park. Idled fasted than usual, due to choke adjustment. White smoke and dripping of some fluid coming from tailpipe. Warmed up and started to idle better. Starts right up after it is warm. Help.

-Plugs are NGK -new plugs/rotor/wires 6/2016 and less than 2500 miles I found some rear shock absorbers on rockauto. $28 each...don’t know this brand though. they also had front struts for the B210. Any thoughts on these?