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Unclejesse88

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About Unclejesse88

  • Birthday 09/30/1978

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    merced, ca

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  1. probably the easiest vehicle to find an 8.8 in is an Explorer. If you look on the differential cover, "usually" there is a tag with the diff size, and the gear ratio stamped on it. Two tags sometimes means limited slip.
  2. I meant to add that this will make it easy to wire up your new harness to your old electrical devices, as opposed to trying to make new connectors fit old devices.
  3. look into vintageconnections.com for connector and terminal ends. The "non latching" connectors are a perfect match to the factory ones, and they also have the proper bullet connectors with booties. You can also get the proper open barrel crimper from them
  4. very cool. If this engine appears like it will be a pain to get bled out, I suggest an air lift vacuum filler. They make getting the air out of some of these newer cars with crazy cooling systems easier.
  5. I've seen pictures before of people cutting the ends of the plenum off, swapping ends and using plate aluminum to weld it back together. It looks like the idle air motor would end up swapping places with the throttle body
  6. that is an su manifold, but I believe those are weber carbs on an adapter. Also, you need to change out your battery "hold down" strap. It doesn't look very secure, and in the event of a hard panic stop I bet the battery will shift forward and short to your positive cable.
  7. I swapped in a 2004 frontier alternator into my 510. It was a bolt on with the exception of the wiring. Assuming the car and truck alternators are the same you can use the truck pulley.
  8. This is where I would stop with the exterior of the truck. Start working on the engine, interior, love shack in the back, whatever. The outside looks awesome right now
  9. The white plastic thing is what holds the cable in place. It should go into the hole in the pedal and stay there, basically closing the end of that hole/slot in the pedal to where the cable can't come out. The cable should move freely in the white plastic thing
  10. any updates to this? From anyone?
  11. Any updates? Did you get the anti theft worked out?
  12. Shoot, I didn't even know there was a second Transformers movie coming out. I prefer to stick with the cartoons.
  13. fusible links are usually two or four gauge sizes smaller than the wire they protect
  14. you will only need to upgrade the b+ cable that runs from your new alt to the starter. When I installed my 60 amp, I used a section of cable I got from work that came out of a newer ford fusion. The cable size was most likely 6 or 8 gauge, which is overkill, but it was free. I used it mainly because there were already fusible links in the cable, two 14 gauge fusible links in parallel. You will want to run fusible links in your upgraded charge cable, just in case the alternator shorts out internally or your cable chafes through against the block or something of that sort.
  15. I dig it. Any other issue with this swap, like obdII monitors? What are you doing for evap and other emmisions systems? I assume you will most likely take care of that with an ecu reflash? What is the actual name of the engine?
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