RAT510

I ended up measuring the cam and it has 0.303 peak cam lift (which i already measured a while ago) and 290 duration. Duration @.050 is 224. Its going to be a while before i get it up and running but im pretty keen to see how it goes even though it doesnt have much lift?

Hi Nad 015. Yes im building a 2.1 longrod for my 510 and also need to put together a daily motor for a 910 runabout. The daily is nearly done just need to sort a cam as the stock one i have is worn. Im aware i can use a degree wheel to set the cam but how would i know if its advanced or retarded without any setup info. Im not sure if it symetrical or not.

thanks for the feedback guys. I measured the lift and at the cam its about 0.290" so approx 0.435" valve lift. I doubt duration would be that big to be honest I think its pretty mild. All I was told it was John DeLongs hot street cam and its fine with std springs. I know that the DAMB cam is based on a DELONG 360-08 and it has a gross lift of 0.540 and a advertised duration of around 290 deg. id like to get my hands on an original one of those. to be honest im not that concerned about the actually figures as such or trying to install the biggest cam I can find but it was more about dialling it in properly. I trust it would work well by the look of it. the grind job on it is perfect ive never seen a regrind like it. ive been told by a few engine builders its a nice looking cam as far as the finish and the shape of the lobes is concerned. I guess ill have to send it off to get measured. I was thinking of just setting it up as per a std cam like in the manual etc but don't feel to good about doing it that way.

I purchased a camshaft a while back online and the only info I got with it is pretty much what is stamped on the end off the cam. DELONG 304-08. would anyone happen to know what the specs are on this cam and how I should set it up? I could probley find out by using a cam doctor but it takes time, money and I would need to post it there and back so thought I would ask here first.

try using the helix design utility to calculate piston rod block combos and deck heights. im building a similar engine for my car so would be interested to see which way you go with this. as far as using the design utility set it up as a z22 block, that gives you the 87mm bore essentially the same as a bored out L20B. most of the dialog boxes can be edited so just put the VG30 piston specs in on top of the Z22E piston specs to give you the figures you looking for.

why not just use the Z22E pistons?

looking on the acl website and it seems they list two pistons Z22 (1982-87 Bluebird, cabstar, king cab, series 720, skyline, 200sx) pin height 31.9 Z22S (1982-87 Cabstar, series 720) pin height 35.5 so is there three z22 pistons available? 32.1 pin height? by my calcs the 31.9 z22 piston plus L20B block and crank Z20E 152.5 rods 1.2mm head gasket A87 head makes 0.05mm above deck and around 9.8:1 cr forgot to mention all my calcs are using a 9.32 cc dish for the piston as thats all i can find

At this stage im using the following parts and specs to build my 2.1 long rod L20B block - bored L20B crank - std Z20E rods – 152.5 mm Z22E pistons - 32.1 pin height (from the jason grey sticky these are 1/82 or later) Gasket height – 1.2mm A87 peanut shaped chamber head - std height Im using a L20B block, because I have it, if you use the above parts and bore it out 2mm over std size to suit 87mm Z22E pistons you should end up with a motor that is 2045 according the the helix calculator and around 10:1 CR If you use the L20B block and bore it out 3mm over std size to suit Z22E pistons you should end up with a motor that is 2092cc If you use the above parts but use the Z22 block you get the same figures but there is no need to bore the Z22 as much. the std Z22 block will give you 2045cc and 1mm over will give you 2092cc That’s my understanding of it all. As far as I have read no need to cut down or modify pistons etc. The only thing that concered me or I found different is Boring the L20B to 88mm if your chasing the 2092cc might cause some issues? I think I would feel much better only about boring it to 87mm 2. With the calcs I did using the helix design calulator my piston sat 0.015mm below the deck where as most info I found said it should be more like 0.05 above the deck?

Im looking at building a 2.1 long rod for my 510. ive been searching the net for more info also but decided im just going build it and see. It seems to have a good rod stroke ratio and large displacement so how could you go wrong? Another plus is thats its relatively simple. My only concern would be boring the L20 block out to 88mm if you wanted to get close to 2100cc. I guess there is the z22 block option to combat that. How much can you safely bored an L20?

thanks guys. i have found all the links that you have posted up in the last few weeks, thats where i got most if not all my info from. i have signed up with ozdat also but most of my googling brought me back to ratsun, so here i am. i know there are a tonne of combinations for L and Z motors but dont want it to get too out of hand. ive done this type of thing before with other makes. one thing leads to another and before you know it your build a motor you never knew existed and purchased 2-3 cars to make it happen, not to mention the money thing. i guess im leaning towards tidying up the L20 but its very tempting to make it into a 2.1 long rod. is anyone running a 2.1 long rod engine that has first hand experience and feedback? ratwagon i know what you mean about ozdat thats how im here. not knocking it though, as its been very helpfull as you mentioned you just need to look past the crap. the helix design utility is great.

hi all new to the forum and im hooked. been doing alot of searching on the forums for the past few weeks and im keen to build a worked engine for my 510. it will be driven on weekends mostly and i would like it to be reasonibly quick. i plan to lower it a few inches and run 15" wheels due to tyres i have laying around. i have mangaed to track down a pair of 44mm mikunis and a twin carb lynx manifold which i want to put in the mix also. im yet to pull the engine down but im told it was a runner some time ago. when i bought it, it was missing the inlet manifold and carby/carbies, plus a starter motor. im told it is a bluebird engine im guessing a s1 or s2 910? At this stage all i can say for sure is it is a L20 and has a head marked a87. regardless of that im after some advice or first hand experiences. due to the fact i have it i would like to stick with the L20 block crank and the a87 head if it all cleans up and falls within spec, and no major cracks. but im toying with options for piston rod combos. option 1 rebuild as a std L20 motor, including std L20 cam. throw on the 44mm mikunis jetted to suit this motor. upgrade to an electronic black box dizzy. exhaust manifold will be std and be followed by a 2" exhaust system with sprial wound resinator and lukey triple flow rear muffler option 2 rebuild L20 with a set of z22e pistons and z20e rods. they can be bought off ebay reasonably cheap and most likley the engine wil need these serviced or replaced anyhow. this should increase the capacity to around 2045cc. from what i have read this makes a very nice reving big bore L20. i would then need to consider a differnet cam maybe to reap the benefits? would stil run 44mm mikunis, elec dizzy and 2" exhaust etc. has anyone had first hand experinece with a 2.1 hybrid motor? are they really as good as google says? basically is it worth messing with the l20? to get more capacity again i could then bore the L20 3mm over to make it 2092cc with the hybrid pistons and rods, however this doesnt seem like a great idea to me as it would have to affect reliablity? if the above L20 block is no good i would consider a z22 block with 88mm pistons. im fairly new to modifying l series stuff i was hoping for some feedback