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dimedriver

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About dimedriver

  • Birthday 03/30/1981

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Middle, GA
  • Cars
    '05 Jeep libby CRD my DD '06 vw jetta tdi(wife's car)
  • Interests
    Datsuns, Diesel, EFI and Electronics
  • Occupation
    Hardware testing engineer.

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  1. You probably have it wired incorrectly. Or you have a wire shorted to ground on the negative side of the coil. #1 the body of the distributor should be grounded with a wire. #2 The pertronix should be the only thing on the negative side of the coil. Basically the pertronix is a switch that disconnects the coil from ground to cause a spark. The tach is typically also hooked up here. Disconnect it from the coil. it's wire can rub on the firewall and short to ground. This happened to me once. #3 if you are using a ballest resistor check the voltage at the positive side of the coil while starting it should be battery voltage. While in run/on it should be less. This test is done with the red lead of your volt meter on the positive coil terminal and the black lead on the batter negative terminal. You can also test your coil by connecting it's positive terminal to the battery positive terminal. Take a wire from the negative terminal of the coil and brush it across the negative terminal on the battery very quickly.
  2. Also check the magnetic rotor. If it demagnetized or is missing it's not going to work.
  3. Sounds like the oilpump/dizzy spindle is installed incorrectly in the l20. It MUST look like the picture you have quoted other wise the dizzy may not reach correct time. If you moved both the pully and the timing tab as a set from the old motor it is showing you the real timing. Also what dizzy do you have? Get the full number off the side and reffrence the list of hitachi dizzies. The list will tell you weather its a vacume advance or retard dizzy. It can also give you an idea as to what the intial timing should be set to. I would set my ignition timing while the engine was running north of 3000RPM at somewhere in the 30degree advanced range. Again the list will help you figure out what it should uave been set to in the orginal application.
  4. What pics do you need? I can see if I can find them or make new ones. I am replacing the ignition on my welder with an HEI based ignition right now. So i could take some pics of the wiring on that too.
  5. Jester, I have the cad of the tdi to Toyota adapter plate somewhere if you need it. What was required to fit that master cylinder?
  6. Did you re-do the front spring mounts? I would like some pics of that. The setup it had when I owned it was a little scary. Also do you have any pics of the steering setup? That was pretty scary when I had it too. I added the maximuma brake master and propartioning valve but with those GM half ton calipers I could never get it quite right. I have moved somewhere that doesn't require smog on anything over 25years old and would like to have a 4x4 620 again. I think I may try the tdi + 22r transmission as the drive train.
  7. Also if your intrested in doing this as a stepping stone to EFI the GM DIS system is similar and their computers(ecu/pcm) are very easy to reprogram. They can also run the ignition standalone with only a tps and map sensor.
  8. its called the Ford EDIS system. Most of the parts will be Found on late 90's escorts. Its computer controlled so you will need an extra box to run it. Megasqirt will do it I think there was a megajolt that only ran this ignition. Without a computer it will run 10degrees of advance if I remember right. Here is some info on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm https://www.autosportlabs.com/product
  9. I was planning on doing this swap to it. http://www.yotatech.com/f162/vw-diesel-build-up-135203/ Seeing as you have toyota parts around it may also work for you in the future.
  10. All of the 4 cylinder L or Z engines should bolt right in. You may have to swap over your water pump and pullyies as its a 74' which has very little room between the pump and the radiator. Did you let it run low on oil? That thing was burning more oil than gas when I had it. I put a quart a week in it when driving less than 12 miles a day. I think it needed new valve seals and rings. When I got it was leaking at the oil presure sending port. The PO just had a std fitting there. Nissan has always used British Pipe Thread so I had to get an adaptor for that cheap oil pressure guage. After that it only ever left a drop or two of oil anywhere. -Avery
  11. Looking for a Diesel pickup in the South East.

  12. All 280zx's That's 1978 to 83 had power steering most also had AC. They are very common in the pick and pull yards and no one touches the steering stuff as it is not very usable in the 240's or 510's. The maxima's and 810 should have it and are also common. Some pickups, 610 and 710's will have it but good luck finding them with anything under the hood. These will have a large alumanum braket on the drivers side of the block. This braket can hold both the power steering pump and AC compressor. These engines will have three row pullies to support this. The braket attaches to the side of teh block with 4 to 6 8mmX1.25 bolts typicaly 12mm head. It will use these bosses on the block. -Avery
  13. Try a 280zx or 810/maxima front Pully. It has three rows. The 280z's up to 78 should have 2. You may run into issues as the 74' has the radiator much closer to the engine than a 75 or later 620. Very little space between water pump pully and radiator. Using these pullies will mess with your timing marks. Take the pointers off the pully doner car, and double check that it is still TDC on the mark other wise make a new mark. -Avery
  14. What springs are those? Also what kinda steering setup are you going to run?
  15. Is that a toyota axle? Or did you swap the hubs back to 6 lugs? -Avery
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