rufusswan

I'm waitin' for the 1st pic in this thread.....

I'm diggin' that rear bumper. Good lookin' and functional.

I agree, that's some good shade tree work there. Well I redrained the oil and installed the pump and spindle correctly and the truck is humming again. This all got started because I figured I had the truck at a confirmed 'baseline' and proceeded to installed my tach, volt and oil gauges, The oil gauge showed about 70-75 lbs. So I probably had a stuck relief valve in the pump. I did have to bang the pump on the workbench but the bypass valve did finally come out. It now shows about 55 lbs of pressure as it should. So the idiot lite was correct, I had pressure, but it don't say "you got too much pressure" B)

Here is the photo but it's from the front of the truck rather then the side. Any way, it is not exactly at 12 o'clock but actually about 12.07, so I guess I need to "to turn it back" one notch, to get things right. Will do in the morning as we are running out of sunlight here in the Ozark Mountains. So the Clymers shows a drawing with no exact terminology, so I performed an operator error. Thanks.

I buttoned up the 77 L20 a few weeks ago and it runs terrifically. I even installed an new electric dist for a 79, an easy afternoon job. So the other day, I decide to remove the oil pump to install a new gasket. I set the truck to TDC on the #1 cylinder, remove the dist. that I put in weeks ago, then pull the oil pump. Clean things up and then do a test fit as I check the olde Clymer as a reference. Looks good as the "small hemisphere" on the dist. end of things is pointing to the front. Cool. Then I fill the pump, install new gasket, set punch mark on the spindle with the oil hole and install, button up the dist cap and wires, and the truck starts right up. It however runs runs like the timing is WAY off. Long ago I adjusted the base plate mark with the mark on the dist mounting so that I could remove and reinstall and have the timing set damned close. Timing is so retarded that I can't even see the timing mark on the crank. I then DE-adjusted the base plate on the dist. and I can finally get 3 degrees advance, but that is all. I am stumped, so today I double checked everything. #1 cyl is at TDC, with dist installed rotor points to #1, dist cap is wired to #1. I have nothing to suspect except the dist itself and it stayed in the engine bay, it did not get dropped and you can advance it buy hand. About the only thing left to try is to install the old points dist which I don't want to do. I am going to drink a few beers.

I installed a new clutch a few months ago. When I pulled the starter I noticed some marking on the flywheel that could only have come from the starter. I shimmed it out when I reinstalled and it is totally quiet now and starts easier.

Ya got a better deal than I did, but then some Arkansas dude dragged it all the way from Washington state before I got to buy it so maybe... Hope you like yours 1/2 as much as I'm liken' mine.

I way that listed on CL (I think) for $3000 some time last week, but I'm not surprised he didn't get any takers. Not too many Datsun fans in these parts. Looks pretty legit too me but what do I know? He does have it listed as FWD so I hope the buyer got to see any under the hood photo :angel: I found a 79 210 goon with 5 speed over in Tulsa but the girl refused the sale when her sister needed it. Damn.

No, the shoulders were left on the bushings, and the bushings did just barely fit inside the shifter without touching each other insde. I did have to bring the 'ears' into parallel as they had been abused, but I made them parallel enough that the pin fit with room for the snap ring groove. Shifter with bushings (with shoulders) installed just fit into ears. It contains to slop at all on the pin and shifter does not slide left to right.

After the first notch it was still too large on the OD to get into the shifter, so I put it back into the vise, tightened until the first cut was closed then I cut a 2nd notch right on top of the first. Easier to do that that to shave the outside on the bench vise.

It rained today so I drove into town. I got Dorman 38374 which had 4 different sizes. Some fit ID and some OD but none were perfect. I select the set that matched those pictured above. After one notch cut with with hack saw they were still too large one the OD. I simply took out the 'end gap' in the vise and cut a second notch. Perfect fit. Installed in the shifter and drilled out the ID. Looks like OEM bushings to me. Installed in tranny and I have no slop in the shifter at all. Easy and fun fix. Thanks all !!

The counter lizard had the 38377 kit which is 3 pair of bushings, so I may get three different sizes. I can do a fair bit of 'hillbilly fabrication' if needed. I'll let you know how it works out.

The 38388 hinge repair kit is the kind of thing I love about this place !!! I got the new clutch in my 620 and it is without any bushing in the shifter/pin so it's as sloppy as hell. Just a couple minutes later the have the part set aside for me to pick up. How in the blazes did you guys figure out that a door repair bushing for 95 Dodge Dakota would fit???.

Back in the day that was called a Brodie Knob. No I don't know why the name, but they are addicting.

Lovely car. Wish mine looked that good! I've been fightin' with that "hesitation" for quite a while. It ran great when I got it but I screwed up the linkage settings when I put in a rebuild kit. So I made it even worse. I've had the carb come loose twice, There is a big screw holding the bottom 1/3 of the carb to the top sections. Crank the thing good and tight. The carb can get loose on the manifold. I put some lock washers them 4 bolts instead of Loktite to fix that, but I have to admit the two nuts on the motor side is very difficult to reach. Take the valve cover off and you have a lot more room. There are 4 screws to adjust carb or linkage. A regular screwdriver is hard to use on the fast idle screw 'cause it's way down at the bottom of the carb and the heat protector plate is in the way. I'll nip a slot in the plate if I take the thing apart again, but I happen to have a screwdriver that works. Anyway, with proper valve lash, timing, etc. you can keep the carb bolted up tight to prevent leaks, and if you can reach all 4 screws the you can get that hesitation out. Then it becomes a truly pleasing car to drive.