rusty12ver

^^ on the wheels, they have a low offset, like a +10mm, With your camber and toe adjusted to the proper settings, they will rub. Those would generally “fit” when the car is lowered without adjusting camber, by the nature of the stock suspension. Although I never tried a 175/60/14 tire or 185/55 tire in the back, to see if it rubs with a proper alignment. If the offset was closer to a +15mm, they maybe could fit. Maybe... there are others on here who have tried more combos than myself.

How about an Alfa Romeo spider diff? circa 80’s. Discs, lsd in most. Autos came with 3.5, manuals came with 4.1 and 4.5 ratios. cheap and I believe parts are still available to rebuild. Not sure if I would call it the “best”, but I would say it would handle a street driven a- series 1200 or 210. Roughly measure 53ish inches from disc to disc.

Just to clarify, are you trying to do a compression check? cant get the starter to continuously crank the engine to get it? get a good ground from the battery to the block. Like make sure the end of the battery cable is bolted to the block where there isn’t any paint. If there is sand it and then attatch. Make sure that cable is good. I have a ga16 and was checking starter to flywheel clearance/engagement. I was *cranking it with the starter on a homemade stand that sat on the floor. I bolted the (-) to the block on a threaded boss and then the (+) to the starter and using a push button to the signal wire to turn the engine over. Hope this helps.

Anything from rear defrost switch, to a foglight switch....

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4024&start=15 http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Budget_EFI Maybe these can be of help to you, if you haven't already seen them.

I think adding the plate will pull the trans that much further back. One thing I never checked was the clutch forks, for differences in shape. The other was the pivot point for the fork. I never verified if they sat in the same location, let alone the size of each pivot. I always assumed they were. on one swap I got away with shimming the pivot point with a washer or two when using the a12 flywheel.

Dang. Sorry Kelmo. Apparently that long bearing collar is uber rare. One way to fix it is shim the pivot point for the fork out a bit. I'll edit my post to include the long bearing collar.

A12 flywheel, LONG T.O. Collar, use with out 1/8" plate. -Edited to not cause confusion.

Quick question about customs, did you have the items shipped via ems? Was it by air? I wonder if the same rules apply if they would have been shipped by boat.

luk 06011 on rock auto for the clutch disc http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php Not sure if the link will work. For the 190mm clutch and 1" shaft.

Double check the length of the lugs when you get them. I recall the Oreiley ones being longer. They bottom out first before tightening the wheel. Nice looking car btw, like how it's coming along.

Datsun 210. Grab lower control arms, strut rods the ball joints, steering knuckles sway bar stuff. Bolt and go. OR Just grab 210 ball joints, and steering knuckles and modify control arm accordingly. OR Slot the steering knuckle hole, a la pitroad.

Nice work, might want to change those couplers on the fuel filler. The fuel will break it down and turn them to mush. AutoZ can get fuel filler hose. Edit: summit sells a magnaflow round body 2" in/out for 85.00, it fits nice and tucks under.

The 63A is a nice one for the 1200, albeit fairly large for the manual tunnel. There may be some "massaging" involved with a hammer. The clutch disc needs to be changed to the b210 one, which I believe is 1"x24T, 180mm. The shifter should pop up in the shifter hole in the body. The driveshaft can be modded with the yoke from a 510, or similar. just check the free play between the through out bearing and the pressure plate.

The bracket with backwards c notch is what worked for me.