kdennis

Out side snap rings require a groove. Inside snap ring joints have the groove on the cap. The snap ring goes onto the cap on either side and is up against the flat surface on inside of the ear of the yoke. All inside snap ring joints are like this. Old dodge, the standard chevy/saginaw/3r inside snap ring joint. If the inside to inside of the ears of the yoke and the cap diameter are on the chart, they are replaceable. no special machining required.

Those may be replaceable. There are replaceable ujoints for "non replaceable" ujoints. The retention of the cap on the replacement is done with an inside snap ring. You need to measure the cap diameter and the distance inside to inside of the yoke ear (as if there was no joint in it). Refer to the link and see if they make a joint that matches your cap and stack up. The 510 isn't listed by application, but I believe you will find a match. http://rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm The "stakes" are just little areas of displaced metal from the yoke. You can either grind out the stakes (only the tab of the each little square that lays over the top of the cap) with a small die grinder and remove the ujoint as usual. I just force the cap right past the stakes, and then go back in with a rat tail file and remove anything that would keep the cap from centering up upon installation of the new joint.

1997 Conquest by Gulf Stream Class C Motorhome on Ford E350 Chassis Model W6211D Serial #537CW6211D18760 Manufactured 3/13/1997 Inspected July 2011 Mileage 113,953 Chassis: A/C, Cruise, Captain Chairs, OD Transmission, AM/FM Cassette, Towing Mirrors Tires: BFG Commercial TA 225/75R/16 Load E Canopy: New in 2005 Electric steps (2) Privacy Windshield Cover Roof Air conditioner cover (winter storage) Front Rotors/Pads/Bearings/seals NEW 2011 Driveshaft Serviced and balanced 2010 Furnace: Suburban SF25 25,000 BTU Water Heater: Suburban SW60 Roof Air Conditioner: Dometic Brisk Air part# 991731648 13,500 BTU Refrigerator/Freezer: Dometic RM2642 Oven: Master Chef 16AR32 Microwave: Master Chef DM46K-15B Generator: Onan 2.8KV-FA/26100 2800watt Television: Toshiba 13in Rear Frame extensions boxed in and strengthened Custom Class III receiver 2 leafs added to springs for increased capacity Tekonsha electric brake controller Standard trailer plug All normal V-10 engine issues resolved. All work performed at the the dealership by a Ford master Technician. Heads removed and all Spark plug holes repaired New head gaskets and complete reseal of top of the engine All new Coil Packs and Spark plugs New exhaust manifold Gaskets/Studs/Nuts Easily towed 24ft Haulmark carrying car, Golf Kart, Tool Boxes and every spare you could think off. Never let us down. Located in Rochester New York http://s859.photobucket.com/albums/ab157/kdennis80/1997%20Conquest%20class%20C%20Motorhome/ $14,000 dennis80@rochester.rr.com Kevin Dennis

The original caps are staked. Two ways. Find or modify a hole saw that is the correct diameter and carefully cut the stakes out, or just drive the cap past the stake. Support the cross on a vise and hit the yoke to drive out the cap. Never hit the tube or the ear on the outside edge!! Hit the Yoke at it strongest point, between the cap and the weld. Cap should drive right out.Once both caps are out, go back in with a dremel tool or a small rat tail file and smoothout any of the remaining stake that intrudes into the bore where the cap has to be pressed back in. Install the new joint like you would any other. Except this time the cap will be retained by inside snap rings. Its pretty staright forward. One thing to note before any of this attempted. Make sure the inside of the ears of the yoke are cast or machined flat, perpendicular to the cross of the joint. The snap ring on the new joint needs to sit flat against the inside of the ear. There are some yokes that are cast at an angle, the new snap ring would only touch in one spot. these yokes are nonservicable. Nothing you can safely do.

http://www.cunacu.org/New%20Parts%20Page/Staked%20In%20Page.pdf

https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=Center+Supports

Not sure if you guys have seen these yet. If so sorry for double post. http://www.acmespeedshop.com/ The new VTO Retro 4, our first sizes, 13x5.5 and 14x5.5 will be here in a few weeks, then by early fall we should have 15x6 and 15x7, we talked about a 15x7 zero offset that would work on alot of SCCA cars, but thats still in the planning stages. We will evnetually have have 13x6 and 13x7 as well.

Find a driveline shop that is a powertrain distributor and order a 1280-10 1973-1979 datsun 620. Picture shows bearing and rubber. http://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=Center+Supports Kevin

Hey, Bob Actually, Mark was driving the year we won. Best I managed was a 2nd and a 3rd. I do know Jeff. We spent many years next to each other, both on the track and under the Nissan tent. Hes a good guy and a straight shooter. Anybody looking for L series engine work would be wise to look him up. The year he won we were running together just in the top ten. We were both on intermediates, everyone in front of us was on rains and the track was drying. We were just cruisin, waiting for the track to dry. I got punted going into the key hole by a car on wets that was impatient and tried to push his way by. Jeff kept it clean waited for the right time and ran down the guys in front of him that were now struggling on wets in a dry track situation. A smart "drivers" win by Jeff. I think he won the Presidents cup for that drive.

Duke, The move to Topeka and the loss of GP took the wind out of our sails. We have been working on the car again. The new FP engine is done, well actually the third. We wore out the first 2 on the dyno trying to find the HP we need to run with the Miatas and the Acuras. NO, we didn't find it. But it will see the track again. Thanks for the welcome. I really enjoy this forum. There is some tight S@*T on here.

Thanks for the positive comments. The others that commented are correct on the spray bar. Its an absolute must on a race engine. The cam would never survive without it. This engine was built to SCCA Production rules. The rules required stock head casting and stock valve diameters. We didn't just take the first 210 we found an bolt it on. This head was carefully choosen after flowing 17 closed chamber 210 heads. It has almost no core shift and flows very very well. The V912 is an allowed alternate but with the 32mm choke restriction and the stock valve size there was 0 difference on the flow bench. Velocity proved more beneficial than total volume. The new engine was built for a faster class and is allowed larger valves. It has a brand new V912 on it.

The 210 and 1200 slip yoke is .800 18 spline the 510 is .995 22 on 24 (2 splines missing). Not sure of the stock lengths, but you would for sure have to come up with a slip yoke that uses the .985 cap 1.734 lock up inside snap ring joint that was .800 18 spline. They are available new through power train for 35 or 40 bucks. I know some 1200's came with a replaceable joint 18 spline slip yoke. The flange should be the same male pilot 2.250 2.750 bolt circle.

The staked u-joint replacements I use are made by Rockford driveline in Illinois. I believe the 210 staked shaft uses the .791 cap. Part number is 430-9. I keep 8 or 10 at a time. Shouldn't cost you more than $20.00. The problem with starting with a staked shaft is the tube they use. Most are 2.55 OD. Not a standard tube. Mazda and toyota do the same thing. There really isnt a need to get crazy custom machining parts to fix this problem. A completley new shaft slip yoke to flange should cost about $250. Sounds like alot, but when you consider there are 7 parts to the shaft plus assembly and balance its pretty reasonable. The easiest way to remove the stakes is to just drive the cap past the stakes. As long as you are hitting the yoke in the right place you won't do any damage. Hit the yoke right at the base of the ear down near the weld. Don't hit the tube!! If your not comfortable hitting the yoke, get a Bi-metal hole saw. Modify the OD so its a hair smaller than the cap, place over the cap and slowly cut out the stakes and then drive the cap out. Obviously the hole saw is used without the centering drill. The key to using the replacement joints is the casting of the yoke. If the inside of the ears are not flat do not use an inside snap ring replacement. The miata and the Honda CRV are good examples. the inside of the yoke is at an angle, the snap ring touches in one small spot and is away from the yoke the rest of the way around. If the ring spins it can allow the cap to start to move out of the ear causing the cross to slop inside the caps and the eventually tear out of the yoke. It sounds like an unlikely scenario, but I have seen it twice. If you have access to a good machine shop almost anything is possible. I am as much of a "make it work" guy as the rest of you, but after 15 years of doing shafts I have seen some terrible things happen when a shaft is cobbled together. Good driveline design and fabrication is money well spent when you really think about what the shaft is doing. Feel free to give me a call at the shop. Happy to help if I can. 1-585-458-1520 Kevin Dennis