TardedPanda

So i looked at the AC panel that has the controls labeled and where the AC light would illuminate...........its just a black fill hole, no bulb or any way to get a light to it. I wasted about an hour last night re-inspecting everything until looking at the back of the AC plastic panel. This is the face, front and back. You can clearly see that Im just an idiot. the clutch kicks on when the you turn the ac lever fan speed, doing the retrofit today. Maybe I get lucky.

If these old systems are low or out of freon would the light not illuminate? All the controls are cable operated which Ive cleaned and verified all move correctly, except you cant 'pull' it out like the manual says. See my first response. Not really understanding that pull cable thing. In the owners manual it says to 'pull' the fan lever switch to activate the AC. Shrug. It even says that if you dont activate the AC, the system will act like a traditional heater. Ill take a pic of the owners manual when I get home.

I have a 1982 Datsun 720 with A/C (in the deep south its necessity). The a/c I THINK is a port option, its not factory from Japan, but added once it hit the dealership. The HI and LOW side fittings are on the back of the compressor which is mounted on the driver side right next to the tensioner pulley. Truck has been in my family since brand new, so no hack jobs and my uncle said it was on the truck when he purchased it brand new in 1982. The A/C does not blow cold or cool, it blows warm air. I know the Compressor clutch works bc it engages when I turn the fan switch lever, I havent tried to jump it but at least the clutch isnt seized. In the manual, it says to pull that lever (fan speed lever) out to activate the A/C and that a light should come on. My light doesnt come on and when I pull the lever, it doesnt pull and you cant push it in either. This old system has me a little baffled. I know its R12 and I have a retrofit kit ready to install (not installed yet) but I want to make sure Im not missing something with AC. No reason to waste money on freon and a retrofit if I have another issue I need to fix first. I got a new bulb from work and going to try it when I get home. Ill post up the result on that later. If these old systems are low or out of freon would the light not illuminate? All the controls are cable operated which Ive cleaned and verified all move correctly, except you cant 'pull' it out like the manual says. Ive only been driving the truck for the past year, it sat for YEARS (maybe 8-10) with minimal use, quick grocery runs or just started and moved a few feet. I dont know how long the AC hasnt worked, it hasnt worked since Ive had it though.

i bought mine from webers carb direct and i have had no issues besides the instructions made no sense and the kit wasnt like the redline kits. It still works great, just not a 'true' weber, no stamp on the casting, just a .2 cent sticker.

Im actually having the exact same problem with my starter. Mine is a slow crank and right before it fires it stops. That was before I smoked the ground cable. Put fresh cables, new battery, and now it wont even turn. I think I have an ignition issue, it has rained everyday for two weeks here, havent had the chance to mess with it. You turn the key and the solenoid clicks but the starter wont turn. If you keep turning the key the truck finally starts to crank. Usually get a slow crank and then the truck fires off. No voltage drop at the battery while turning the key too. If i find an issue with the starter, Ill hit this thread up again. Mainly I just wanted you to know that your not alone. lol I know my motor isnt locked. The truck ran perfect before I replaced the starter. I bought a cheap Oreillys starter, it was like 40 bucks or something.

Ive had a no start issue for awhile now. In my last thread I posted about smoking a ground. I got the ground issues all fixed (under the hood anyway) and replaced the negative terminal. I have equal voltage between the postive battery post and all the grounds under the hood. I charged up my battery hoping to cure my no start, battery only showed 12.05 volts which wasnt enough. When I put it back in the truck, it was fully charged around 12.95 volts. When I turn the key, the only click you hear is the starter relay under the dash. I checked resistance in the positive cable and it had zero, which is good. The starter gets power as well. When the truck does begin to crank, it cranks fine and will fire off.....its just getting it to crank thats the problem. Sometimes it fires off five times in a row and then nothing. other times it does nothing for 5 key turns and then fires off. If i do drive the truck, it seems the longer I let it run, the harder it is to start. I usually get stuck for about 20 minutes before it finally bumps off. Ethol has a new alternator and starter that I got from Napa and Oreillys. Do these trucks have a similar style ignition cylinder like the toyotas? Its a plastic sleeve with contact points when the cylinder turns. The only thing I have added to the truck is a tachometer. It gets power from the existing clock harness that my truck doesnt have and is grounded to a bolt that bolts the hood release latch on. I cant imagine this being an issue but figured Id list it anyway. You can continuously turn the key and there is no drop in voltage. Every now and then the truck will crank and voltage drops as usual. Its just intermittent and random. Any help is appreciated. Im going to tear apart the steering column this weekend and check the amperage pull of the starter too.

I replaced the negative ground cable from the battery bc the terminal was loose and wouldnt tighten to the post. I figured that was what caused the secondary ground to smoke, loose terminal didnt supply enough ground resistance. Put a new one on and I still have a starting issue. Alternator only puts out 13.06 volts at idle but puts out more upon acceleration. Battery seems to always be low too. Im wondering if I have more electrical problems. Probably going to replace the positive wire next and see where it goes from there. After that its a draw test to see if the battery is being drained and that's my slow start issue as well. After I fix one thing on Ethol, something else breaks. Lol.

I agree 100%.

Yeah. I know that one but its not the one that's smoked. I went to take it off (wire from negative post to the head) and I rounded the bolt right under the thermostat so I threw my tools under the hood, slammed it shut, and started drinking. I'm so mature. I know what wire you're talking about though. I cleaned that wire last year. I know the cable is tight on the battery post. I'll try and get it off once I get that bolt out and check it for corrosion. It was my first thought, this forum is full of awesome participants that could confirm I'm heading in the right direction. When that wire smoked, I had a feeling that ground cable from the battery has probably been my problem all along.

You're right, it's on the head, back driver side. You're the King Rat so you already knew that. Lol. It's a Z22 motor.

I put a new starter and battery in my truck to try and iron out a starting issue. To start, my truck wouldn't start when warm. It would just click. Put a starter in, and then it clicked continuously while turning the key. Put a new battery in and it started fine the first two pulls. Try to crank the truck and nothing happens, no click, nothing. Keep turning the key and the truck finally cranks. Fine, I'll get to this problem later. Fast forward two weeks and I walk out to work on it and the truck fires on the first bump. I let it warm up and take it for a two mile drive. Come back home and turn off the truck. I crank it two more times no problem then my problem arises. Turning the key nothing happens. Keep turning and then it slow crank. I let it slow spin for maybe five seconds and I notice smoke from the hood. Then I smell it. Anyone who has burnt a wire knows this smell. I let the smoke out of the ground wire that runs from the valve cover to the firewall. I cleaned all the grounds last year when I brought the truck back to life. I'm at a loss at the moment. Any type of direction would be awesome. Sorry for the long post and any typos. I know we at ratsun like pictures so I will post one once my laptop is charged. I hate that I love this little truck so much. Lol.

If it doesn't have a Weber cast into the body, it's an EMPI, which are cheap Chinese junk clones. I had a feeling it wasnt a true weber when i got it. Kit wasnt as described, no stamp, and the price was well below what I was expecting to pay. shrug. I know redline sells them but I cant figure out a price nor how to order one. Even being a junk clone, Ethol runs 100% better since the install. Edit: It has a return spring but its not in the picture. Im going to try and rig something up when I get off work.

Electric choke. Ive done that Izzo. I cant see why the throttle stays open, nothing is binding that I can see and the throttle cable is free. The linkage itself even feels tough. Maybe the nut is too tight? I had to flip the linkage for it to work on my truck. When it sticks, that linkage stays up, if you tap it back down, the throttle returns back to normal. I should add, it doesnt start sticking until you get a few miles on it, Id say 8-10 miles and then it starts sticking. Tap the pedal and it idles back down. I got it from WeberCarbs direct, it doesnt have the weber stamp on the casting like a true weber.

<a href="http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/TardedPanda/media/image_zpsd7381901.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/TardedPanda/image_zpsd7381901.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zpsd7381901.jpg"/></a> <a href="http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/TardedPanda/media/image_zps7c52fbbf.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/TardedPanda/image_zps7c52fbbf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image_zps7c52fbbf.jpg"/></a> http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/TardedPanda/image_zpsd7381901.jpg http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc460/TardedPanda/image_zps7c52fbbf.jpg I installed a Weber 32/36 about two months. The pictures i posted shows the Link that keeps getting stuck. At half throttle the, it gets stuck and I have to tap the pedal to get it to release again. Anyone have this issue or possible know a fix? Carb is less than two months old. The linkage Im referring to is to the right of the linkage running vertical.